Cygon isn't available any longer. It was taken off the market. We don't have an alternative that is systemic in the plants and thus can kill vector mites when they land. There is not anywhere near enough info out there about beneficial predaceous insects...I keep looking. The reasoning behind using wiltproof ties to the way that the flightless eriophyid mites get around- they are dropped by breezes when the breeze slows down. Thanks to the dissertation of Abdullah Kassar at WVU, if they land on a rose, they sense it and stay. If they land on a non-rose they try to catch the next breeze away. What we hope is happening with the wiltproof and other anti-transpirants is that they land on the wiltproof and reason "not rose" and leave. So as to how often to spray wiltproof...you'd like to keep the leaves and stems coated. Spray accordingly.

the simplest thing to do is to put those cut-off vines in water until you see roots started (about 1/2 inch to 1 inch is good) - then you can plant them. it's better if they have 2 leaves at the end: if at this point you just have 1 leaf starting or just 1 lonely leaf at the end wait for 2 new leaves to grow, then cut them off. you'll need 2 extra leafless nodes after one with leaf: to insert into soil. if you have more then that just cut them off. not so easy to get soils in NYC, but home depo is your best bet. they have African violet mix and perlite: add about 1/3 perlite to av mix . reuse your large bark: take it off and soak it in hot water for 2 days, then cut it up to 1/2" :)))). I know it's too much to ask... if your pots are up to 6" it's not really necessary. bigger then that and adding 1/4 part smallish bark pieces will add aeration and drainage.

If you want to save the mother plant..... And I've been in your shoes with this because my dad almost drowned one of my mom's prized specimens when she went on a three-week trip and left her plants in his care with instructions to "water them once a week".... So anyway... If you want to save the mother plant, which is CLEARLY unhappy..... Dig her up, clean off all the soil under luke-warm tap water, cut away the stem portions from where the last long root is connected (just above the old root), and place the plant(s) in luke-warm water near a source of bright light but no sunlight -- when putting in water, make sure the water line is below the bottom-most leaf on each plant's stem. She/they will perk up in a few hours and put out new roots in 1-2 wks. Repot her as soon as you see indications of new white roots. What I realized with these VERY tough and forgiving plants is that when something goes wrong with the roots system or the plant gets fed up with the soil it's in, it can suddenly look just the way yours is looking.... Sometimes with good reason(s), sometimes no reason can be discerned.... So, rather than waste time while the plant is wilted and clearly in distress trying to figure out what in the world the issue is, I prefer to restart it. They are very, very quick to recover once removed from the situation that's distressing them.... And less likely to be killed off by more drastic means to save them, than by less invasive means to do so.... Also, make sure to keep these plants away from sunlight.... And if their soil gets too dry between waterings, it's best not to suddenly drench the soil, but gradually rehydrate it.... Turns out potted roots don't like to sit in sodden soil for long --- even though, water-grown roots will sustain a plant indefinitely... I have a few growing in just water -- since I have aquariums with live plants as well, I just use a drop of the liquid fertilizer from them to feed the water growing Pothos once a month or so. When repotting.... I don't use any special soil concoction for them.... I get miracle grow potting soil and add a good helping of pearlite to it.... mix it well.... Make holes where I want to position the plants, then gently push them in & carefully tuck the roots in.... Press the soil down around the stem --- firm, but not packing it down hard... And then water well until water runs out through the soil --- so, to saturation point --- and leave in the sink until all excess water has drained... Then place it in a well lit spot. That's it... I've even had 100% success with these guys just cutting away the old or unhealthy sections and just sticking the healthy stems into new potting soil.... As long as a few root "nubs" are buried and the soil is kept from drying out, the cuttings will grow roots in a few days. They will, however, look a little droopy until they adapt to the new situation and start to react by growing a new root system. That's really the only difference between that and putting the cuttings in water to grow new roots. Hope this helps =)

Hard to tell from here. Two months is plenty of time for a plant to get used to a new environment, so I agree that that's not a factor here :) I'd check for pests, and take a look at the roots. It could be rootbound, which can prevent the roots from taking in enough water. You also could have watered it too soon after its last watering (overwatering = root rot), which is one of the quickest ways to kill a pothos. See if there's any brown/black or mushiness on the roots and let us know what you find! Proper care for a pothos: Soil/Pot: WELL-DRAINING SOIL, you do not want a soil that retains water. Normal potting mix will not work for this plant. Mix in about 50% perlite or pumice if your soil doesn't drain well enough. Must have drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. Watering: Check soil with your finger, or insert a wooden dowel into the soil. Wet soil will stick to the dowel and come out moist, dry soil won't. Water thoroughly (until water comes out of the drainage holes) when the soil is mostly dry. Light: Bright, indirect light for best growth/color. Can tolerate low light.