@zmith do you know if this is due to the heat radiating off of the range or if people are setting down hot pots/pans onto their quartz? Based on some quick google searching quartz is heat resistant up to 150-300 degrees F and thats mainly because of the resin used not the actual quarts. I believe the resin can be repaired based on some posts on houzz. It doesn't seem likely that the head radiating off the burner will be hot enough to damage the resin in the quartz (maybe the heat transfers to the metal housing of the rangetop. I'll try to confirm with a bluestar installer

@zmith after some more researching I'm starting to see lots of different factors in terms of quartz damage. Specifically the quality of the quartz and how someone maintains it. There are stories of people getting their quartz damaged by leaving a mug just taken out of the dishwasher and stories of people putting a pot from the oven and no damage. I planned on going with caesar stone mainly because of the color but now its started to feel like their quality is much higher too. 1 slab of the quartz I want is over $1.5k while I had a buddy just install quartz from his cabinet guy for $500. It seems the cheaper quartz use a lower quality resin and shorter curing time making it easier to be damaged from heat. Either way you have given me a reason to consider granite, thanks!

My 10’ Caesarstone island has a seam.

A lot of what you are saying isn’t adding up, though. You’re making some really expensive choices (large island with waterfall edges, high-end commercial-style range, which needs extensive venting and makeup air) but buying an open box/scratch and dent appliance? That’s going to be a drop in the bucket compared to the money you’re spending elsewhere. (And I’m all about a thrifty kitchen; I did one myself! But you have to be working it from all angles, not just one.)

How big is your kitchen? I really wouldn’t back up the kitchen sink to the rangetop, and, if you are insisting on it, a prep sink is redundant. Are you interested in help?

Agreed, this quickly is approaching or even exceeding a $100k remodel. A $1000 discount for an open-box unit is under the noise floor for the estimated project cost.

@Hillside House I'm trying to save money where I can to spend on the other necessary stuff in my vision. Getting all open box appliances gives me some wiggle room to go with the waterfall island, the larger vent hood, the make up air unit. I wasn't really planning on adding a prep sink until I realized how much extra counter space would be on a 10' island with a 3' rangetop. Plus in my experience things get damaged fairly quickly from regular use so why not save a few grand from the get go :).

Is your island empty or is there a sink/rangetop on it? Where is the seam on your island? I might consider going a bit smaller just to prevent a seam but if its not bad I honestly don't mind a seam.

@M my estimated project cost for the kitchen is around $25-$30k not including appliances, add $5k if you want to include the architect that redid the entire town house

I have a prep sink on mine, and the seam is about two feet from the right side if I’m standing in my work aisle. I’m okay with the seam, but in hindsight I would probably have gone smaller to avoid it. And, frankly, I don’t feel like we would have room for even a rangetop on mine, let alone a range AND sink. (I have a 48” range top, but it’s on the perimeter wall.)

What style of quartz are you doing? If it’s something with strong veining, they will probably seam right in the middle, so that the veins on the waterfall edges match up.

@Hillside House I really like the london grey. I would say its not super strong veined.

Thats really surprising about the room on the island! How deep is it? I plan on keeping the slab the full size so 120"x56.5" and having 24" cabinets in front and 18" cabinets in the back. Coming from a tiny apartment with virtually no counter space I can't imagine there not being enough room for a 36-48" range on a 10' island. Do you use yours for prep? Do you cook really big meals? I don't have a family yet so I just cook for me and my girlfriend

I would urge you to pause and engage the services of a good Kitchen Designer. Too much is not really coming together here in your statements about your design, materials, and the actual build out. Your stated budget is the #1 red flag against this project having a happy conclusion. Or, I may be misunderstanding your budget?? Is that just the contractor labor only budget and all of the materials are entirely separate?

@User that includes labor and material. The project is already underway and the only thing left I need to pay for are appliances (not included in the estimate) and kitchen cabinets (included in the estimate). I sourced all materials myself, did some of the labor and found specialists for things I couldn't do rather than hire a contractor to do everything.

I measured, because we were framing our windows yesterday so the tape measure was handy. ;)

Actual countertop is 10’5” x 49”. We have cabinetry along the working side with overhang for seating on the opposite. The seam is 30” from the right side, with the prep sink just to the left of it (center of sink is at 50”).

We do use it mainly for prep. I have a large family (4 kids, 11-18) but since they are older, with busy, varied schedules, “family dinner” doesn’t happen nearly as often... maybe a couple of times a month. We do have gatherings with our extended families 4-5 times a year, though.

I just made a sandwich for lunch, and the various sandwich-making spread out over 3’. And that’s just a sandwich. Is it possible I’m spreading out more just because I have the room? Sure.

But you’re putting a 36-48” range in there. If it’s dead in the middle, you’re talking about 3-3.5’ on each side. Do you keep anything near your cooktop, like a spoon rest, salt/pepper shakers, oil? There goes another 6”. What about your vent hood? If you go 6” wider then your cooktop, as recommended, you’re now scooted over even more, to allow for head room. The average person would need at least a couple of feet, just to allow for shoulder space, right? But, you have two spaces, so you can stand on one side and your girlfriend on the other. Sounds romantic! Except, now you’ve added a prep sink. You’re down to one 2.5’ wide space. Guess she gets to Netflix while you cook. ;)

ETA: It is often just my husband and I in our kitchen. Even with just two of us, we use the majority of the island, and I have a second and third prep area (5’ and 3’) available just in case. I’d really love to see your layout, because I suspect it can be improved immensely.

@Hillside House To clarify if I went with a 48" range I wouldn't add a prep sink. I plan on having nothing on the countertops other than the range and maybe a paper towel holder. I have one of those 12" spice drawers to the side of the range so thats where everything will be.

I'm confused about your comment on the vent hood. Is it common for the vent hood to be in the way if its ceiling mounted? I'm short so I guess I never have to think about it. The range will go in the middle so 3-3.5' on each side is plenty of prep space for me.

If you're at all concerned about safety with small children, I certainly wouldn't consider such a powerful professional range. I'd be concerned about the flames, not just the hot pots. And I certainly wouldn't place it on an island, which is a safety concern for anyone of any age in the vicinity. Yikes.

@Hillside House Fortunately I have never had that problem because I'm 5'2 lol. One of the few perks of being short I guess. But yeah, I understand the clearance needed but I don't see it as losing much prep space. Lets say I get the 48" range, that means I should get a 54" hood. (BTW would probably go with a much cheaper brand for the hood). That still leaves 33" on each side for prep space. Lets say we stand an extra 3" away from the hood thats still 30" on each side which for me is plenty of space. Not to mention the counter space behind us in between the fridge and sink (another 60"). Either way I probably will just stick it out and wait for a good deal on a 36" rangetop or go with the cooktop. I don't think I would end up utilizing a 48" rangetop to its full potential (6 burners + 12" griddle). Thanks for the discussion by the way! Definitely helped me in which way to go

Long Nguyen

@M my estimated project cost for the kitchen is around $25-$30k not including appliances, add $5k if you want to include the architect that redid the entire town house

Unless you're using Ikea cabinets, your budge is way too low. It won't happen. My island is 84" wide and my kitchen is 15'8" x 13' and I used Amish cabinets which were 1/2 the price of Shiloh (a mid priced line) and I can tell you that even with the Amish cabinets, your budget isn't going to get you near what you want.

Unless you're planning on using cheapchinesecrapola, and if you are, why are you bothering to put in top of the line appliances?

Just the appliance budget for a kitchen of this level is 20-30K. Plus all of their plumbing and electrical rerouting-redoing. There’s a licensed contractor involved in this? Pulling permits?

A five burner 36" model is likely the most you'd actually use even if you entertain a lot -- don't get one any larger. Save your countertop space so you can enjoy the rest of your island/bar as a tabletop around which you can have family and friends gather.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frigidaire-36-in-Radiant-Electric-Cooktop-in-Stainless-Steel-with-5-Elements-including-Quick-Boil-Element-FFEC3625US/308849730?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD29A%7C29-15_COOKING%7CMulti%7CPLA%7c71700000032417790%7c58700003840697307%7c92700031113087875&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3oXt79yj5AIVkZ-fCh2F2wixEAQYBSABEgLllPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

If you don't entertain a lot, a four burner 30" would suffice.

@cpartist

I am using a Chinese warehouse distributor that is used by many contractors around my area. I have visited and viewed the material myself and the quality seems better than ikea stuff. I was quoted at $6.7k for 18 boxes (2 of them are bottom to top pantry). I haven't paid yet since am not 100% sure on the sizing and placement of everything yet but I think I can still haggle the price down below $6k.

I'm not installing top of the line appliances, it just happens that bluestar is the cheapest reputable brand I could find that had open burners. The rangetop is the most important piece of my kitchen since I cook a lot. For instance I went with an open box kitchenaid KRFC302ESS ($1.5k) for my fridge and will probably just grab a ZLINE range hood ($600) from home depot. As for dishwasher, oven, and microwave I will probably stick with kitchenaid so they look similar.

I’ve refrained from commenting on the budget, because labor can vary so much depending on where you live.

But, to give a little perspective: My kitchen is right around $25K, and that *does* include appliances, but it also has IKEA cabinets. We did almost everything ourselves, with the exception of counters, new lighting, and a new gas line install. We watched for deals on the appliances we bought, and got them at some great prices... some we had for almost a year before we even started our remodel.

OP stated earlier he has done some of the labor himself, but, how much is unknown. And, since cabinetry isn’t even ordered yet, it can’t be too far into the project... so, are all of the upcoming labor/materials accounted for? He hasn’t definitively picked a countertop, for example, so that price could fluctuate. What about things like backsplash, hardware, etc? Have those been chosen? So, while it’s *possible* for it to come in at that budget, I‘m not sure it‘s very probable.

I’ll be following along, though, as I’m interested to see how it all comes together!

@User I am doing owner-builder for permits for all of the framing and electrical work.

I used a licensed plumber who pulled permits which was the most expensive cost of this project. It was about $8k but that also included running all new cast iron drains up to the 3rd floor for a newly added full bathroom and a conversion of a tank water heater to a tankless. I didn't include the plumbing work in my kitchen budget though because none of it really touched the kitchen other than moving the fridge water line and running the gas line to the island.

Electrical was $1500 for labor and material. I added 8 recessed lights and 4 new 3 way switches. Outlets were already there but some had to be rerun.

My projected cost didn't include appliances but I am trying to keep that under $10k. So far I have only bought the fridge ($1.5k). I'm hoping to get a 36" bluestar rangetop for under $3k. My budget for the hood and dishwasher is no more than $1k each. So far thats 6.5k which leaves me another $3.5k for my oven and microwave if I want to make it under the $10k budget. I haven't even looked into those and honestly don't care as much about the oven cause I rarely bake. I honestly am not trying to get fancy appliances, I just really want an open burner style rangetop and bluestar seems to be one of the only ones and more affordable.

@Hillside House I have already picked out/gotten quotes on everything which is how I have the estimated project cost. I'm waiting for inspections to get done before I can pull the trigger on buying the cabinetry. I'm going with a Chinese warehouse distributor which I was weary of at first but when I went to inspect their stuff it seems on par if not better than the Ikea cabinetry I was looking at. I'm in the same boat as you where I am doing what I can and only getting labor for things I do not feel comfortable doing (Framing, major plumbing, counter top installation, and lighting/new electrical to the panel)

I think everyone is assuming I'm doing some high end kitchen renovation because I want a BlueStar rangetop but that is far from the reality.

I think it’s fine to mix high/low, but, yeah, the assumption when you get a BlueStar is that they are all going to be high, or low-high, if that makes sense. I would make sure that the vent hood you get can handle the exhaust needs of the range top with as high of an output as you want, though. I’m not sure you’ll find that for under $1K.

@Hillside House The one I'm eyeing is a ZLINE one with 760cfm. I see them going for $700-$800 online but I also like to go to appliance outlets so if I see one there that fits the bill I'll definitely snag it. I'm aiming for something around 750cfm though. I think 1200cfm will be overkill to be honest. I don't care about noise when cooking so the only concern for me is the cfm. As for the rest of the appliances I'll probably just stick with KitchenAid which is what I got for my fridge. I think I ended up with a mid tier fridge? It retails for around $3k.

How tall is your ceiling?

Hoods are never 100% efficient. @kaseki uses 50% as a factor to compensate for that. So, when you want a 750cfm hood, you really have to buy a 1100+cfm hood.

If you do the math, that is about the correct ballpark figure for a 36" wall-mounted hood that you place over a 30" range. Wall-mounted hoods work well, because they are fully enclosed on the rear side, and they are often partially enclosed on the sides. The upper cabinets help guide the expanding rising plume.

With island installation, you don't have this luxury. So, you probably need to increase capture area in all four directions. And probably by more than the 3" that you can get away with for wall-mounted hoods. This increased capture area means you also need to increase CFM. That, in turn, means a bigger diameter vent pipe and a more complicated make-up-air system.

I assume that you want a Bluestar, because you like to stir fry. In that case, proper venting becomes much more important.

Things just don't quite fit together here. An island mounted, extra-high BTU, oversized rangetop cooking greasy foods isn't compatible with a undersized venting solution. Either change the hood or change the needs for such a powerful vent.

Love it. Waterfall counter detail. Bluestar Range. Prep sink. Large island. But garbage Chinese cabinets and vent hood that look the part. This is like the Fake Fendi of kitchens.

As someone who remodeled my kitchen in large part because of an island cooktop with inadequate venting, I would reconsider. If you’re set on the island rangetop (which it sounds like you are) at least do it right. Don’t skimp on the ventilation system.

750cfm won't cut it with a large gas cooktop. And you'll also need MUA.

A Dragon in the middle of the kitchen for everyone to think it’s tame isn’t a good idea. It can be managed, but it’s going to take more planning and money.

Terrible quality cheap stock cabinets shouldn’t even be part of this mix. The concept at least deserves semi custom quality cabinets. Cabinets should cost at least double the countertops, not half the cost. If you want a kitchen to last more than the two years that flippers expect to have happen. I‘ve seen that kind of imports fall apart as they were being installed.

Ventilating properly, with the code mandated make up air, costs as much, or more, than the cooking equipment. Ventilation is important to your home health and cleanliness. No one wants chili garlic oil vapor trapped in all of the soft furnishings and getting rancid.

$1500 of electrical lights has left off the dedicated circuits for the fridge , microwave, rangetop, under cabinet lights, and island sides.

There’s lots more. Like flooring, backsplash. pulls, pendants, sink, faucet, disposal, drywall repair, painting, the rest of the appliances (like the 3K wall oven +2K wall oven cabinet) .....

Those that have done this a few times are giving you the benefit of their experience in these cautions. Take them to heart.

@Hillside House was the main factor the ventilation? if so then maybe I will consider getting a 1200 cfm hood. I cook a lot of stir fry and grew up in a house hold cooking with a lot of smells/smoke and not proper ventilation so I'm used to it. not saying that it's some excuse but that I'm okay if not all the smells/smoke isn't sucked up out of the kitchen

@User the total cost of electrical was $3000 which included the 3rd floor too which is why I split it in half. total work done was 15 recessed lights, 6 new outlets, running 4 new 3-way switches and redoing some of the existing wiring. the circuit breaker is definitely getting pretty close to maxed out but I think it should be fine for now. I can always upgrade it later if there are issues.

I'm doing flooring, drywall, painting, installing faucets, sink etc all myself so that's only material cost.

I'm not trying to build some high end kitchen. if anything I'd consider it a low-mid tier kitchen renovation with the exception of the rangetop, which if it's as amazing as I think it is I'll probably take it with me when I upgrade to a real home.

@BeverlyFLADeziner the ceiling over the island is 8ft

Wow...seems like nobody thinks your plan will work,,,well I just have to jump in with .........I love the stovetop on the island...in my last house ..and now in the house we built and live in now.......my island is 7’ long and 5.5’ wide..( really a little wider than needed)...and my stove is 30” wide ...leaving plenty of space on the sides (27”) for anything I need.........aaaand I don’t even have a fan over the stovetop....eeek ....how have I managed to live ...happily...like this..... for 19 years?....well one thing ...I have 13 foot ceilings above my island with a big industrial fan on the ceiling ....(mainly installed to exit hot air to avoid having to turn on the air too much)...but works great if things get smoky or I am cooking something that permeates the house with cooking smells...PLUS...a downdraft stovetop...soooo...If your island is 10’... then either size stove should be fine....you sound astute enough to get your fan right..so that should not be an issue....lastly you sound like a tough cookie that knows want she wants...stick to that and you will have the most interesting home as well as a good price and all the things you love...not the formulaic plans that every one feels more comfortable with...however ...all great plans have issues...and there will always be something you wish you could change...in your plan or anyone else’s... this is how we learn ......

I cook a lot of stir fry and grew up in a house hold cooking with a lot of smells/smoke and not proper ventilation so I'm used to it. not saying that it's some excuse but that I'm okay if not all the smells/smoke isn't sucked up out of the kitchen

There's a very good chance that the range you grew up with, and the one you're using now, have nowhere near the power of a BlueStar.

Chinese cabs can look good at install. Contractors see them then. But how the finish looks in 5 years is the test. Especially painted. See if you can find some installs with some years on them to look at. Ikea has a good warranty.

I see you've already paid for the gas line. But an induction cooktop needs less ventilation because it doesn't produce waste heat. And it's easy to clean with better performance than gas. Bosch and Miele are two options.

The ventilation was a big part of it... the ceiling above (which was 8') was permanently discolored from years of cooking. (Previous/original owners were an elderly retired couple, so it's not like they were cooking massive meals for large groups, but even daily cooking for 2 over 20 years adds up.) I also really disliked the actual cooking surface on the island... I didn't like cooking with a seating area just inches away, and I didn't like having the cooktop as the centerpiece of the kitchen. I also felt like I had no prep space. Granted, it was a smaller island than I have now (about 6'x5') but it was only a 30" cooktop. And it was electric... I can't imagine how much worse the ceiling would have been had it been gas with high-output burners.

Dan and I have gone rounds before over gas vs induction, but if my only option was an island cooktop, I would absolutely do induction. It's much better suited.

Of course, I'd do a million things before I would hit that point. ;)

@dan1888 Thats a good idea, I'll try to find some previous installs from the wholesaler I am buying from. I considered induction cooktop but for some reason I just gravitate more towards the gas range top.

@Hillside House yikes, yeah I guess time will tell. I'll definitely reconsider the ventilation power. Otherwise all of your cons are my pros, ha! The first thing I notice in a kitchen is the rangetop/exhaust.

Oh, my range and venthood are definitely the focal point of my main wall, and my entire kitchen. But it's at the back, so it's the final piece to a very nuanced and layered view. I didn't like that the view was blocked into my kitchen, and that was ALL you saw.

@Hillside House I have a very open floor plan so I hope that doesn't become an issue with mine! I'll definitely post some pictures once its finished

...

Ended up finding a 36" bluestar rangetop in my price range. I'm considering this Vent-A-Hood (
https://www.ventahood.com/index.php/support/specifications?id=361&view=article&model=CILH9-242). The specs say its 550 CFM but equivalent to 900 CFM. I hear Vent-A-Hood is a good brand so I'm wondering if this will be enough for my bluestar, any thoughts? @M @Hillside House

What is the output on your burners? My gut says no, but I didn’t retain much about vents; I researched enough to buy mine and then promptly forgot most of the info, so hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in. Kaseki?

@Hillside House The range I ended up getting has 2 22k BTU burners, 1 15k BTU burner, 1 9k BTU burner and a 15k BTU griddle.

My other option is a 1200 cfm ZLINE hood. I will probably end up getting this one because its 1/4th of the price.

My sister has a cooktop on her island, with vent above. Her kitchen is gross with grease and always smells bad. And this with almost no searing meat (they don't eat meat), no stir-frying, and it's a regular electric cooktop! She cleans after every meal, and she has a once a week housekeeper. But in order to get the space really clean, she would have to get out an exension ladder and clean on top of the hood, all the upper portions of the walls, the tops of the cabinets and the ceiling! Her house looks neat, tidy and clean, but it's a terrible situation having the cooktop on the island.

That VAH is nowhere near enough for island cooking with a Bluestar. You will have a massive escape of all of the cooking steam and grease. It will be nasty in no time.

1200 actual with the wider and deeper capture area is needed.

aaaand I don’t even have a fan over the stovetop....eeek ....how have I managed to live ...happily...like this..... for 19 years?.

And I'm guessing that if you actually cleaned your ceiling you'd find it is not quite as clean as you think.

When I moved into my NY place the previous owners did lots of stir fry cooking with an inadequate hood. And this is with a stove against the wall. It took me over 2 weeks of daily scrubbing to get the grease off the tops of the cabinets, the walls, under the cabinets, etc, yet at first glance the place looked clean.

There's a very good chance that the range you grew up with, and the one you're using now, have nowhere near the power of a BlueStar.

Agreed!

1200 actual with the wider and deeper capture area is needed.

And you will need MUA!

You have your head in the clouds thinking this is a good thing your doing no matter how much every one of us suggests it's not a good thing.

Cpartist ...you left out the part....I have a big industrial fan on my ceiling...plus a downdraft stove...so I wouldn’t be so quick to claim my ceilings must be needing cleaning...so a little advice ...how about spending more time offering helpful advice rather than spending all that energy trying to tear down other opinions...

Can we please keep this civilized. Critiquing the design is great. If somebody gets a little carried away at times, that's understandable. But please keep the criticism restricted to the design instead of the individual