Just curious, how recently have you changed the water filter OR have had air in your water lines? I've had both cause my Kenmore (rebadged Whirlpool Conquest) to leak water out of its water dispenser. Running the water dispenser for about 2-3 minutes (filled a large pitcher) with water cured it.

In your calls to GE, did anyone discuss with you the possibility of the unit being set to it's 'demo' mode? It can't reset itself to demo mode sometimes when unplugged for any length of time. Check this esepcially if it was unplugged during the intire water hookup. Do the lights come on? Usually a sign that demo mode is in play. And,... are the temp numbers replace by letters? O and an F if I remember correctly. I would tell you the button pushes to get out of demo mode, but I've totally forgotten them. Hope this helps

Now that you know you have a PRV we KNOW you have a closed plumbing system and the 100psi spikes are the result of thermal expansion. You can refer to the link 14 posts above for a detailed explanation of thermal expansion. The PRV creates a closed plumbing system. Since your internal pressure is 60 psi we can assume that portion of the PRV is working. We can prove that if we know the street side pressure. The N35B does have a built-in bypass feature that limits the internal pressure to 10psi above the supply pressure. I don't trust the built-in bypass because the intent of a closed plumbing system is to prevent back-flow into the main system from homes. Click here for N35B details and read the TROUBLESHOOTING section CAREFULLY. You may be experiencing the dribble now just because the new fridge has a valve that is sensitive to excess pressure. The bypass on the PRV might have just failed and is now causing you a thermal expansion problem. That is why the preferred thermal expansion control device is a thermal expansion tank. Here's what I would do... 1. Measure supply (street side of the PRV) pressure for reference and to know how much the PRV is reducing the pressure for future troubleshooting. 2. If the PRV is not reducing pressure then replace it. 3. Install a thermal expansion tank at the cold inlet for the WH and sized from the link 14 posts above including a 1/4 turn ball valve so the tank is easily serviced in the future. 4. When that is done, if the fridge leak persists then back to GE, BUT, without a receipt from a plumber you may be banging your head against a wall with them unless you get a GE tech that has field experience and is knowledgeable.

Is there any way you can put an electric heater in the garage behind the refrigerator? That may keep the wall warm enough not to freeze the ice water line. You may have to keep it on when the temperature goes below freezing. If there's no outlet near it, you could use an extension cord, but make sure it's a heavy duty one. Good luck