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How poorly draining is your soil? While blueberries like moist soils and plenty of water when they are setting fruit, they dislike poorly drained or overly wet soil conditions. Did you do any amending?

With very few exceptions, blueberries are fully deciduous so unlikely to push any additional foliage growth in fall.

yea it's quite non draining soil.

I'm guessing it's been over-watered, I felt the soil today after about 2 days no watering and it still feels moists, and I didn't water it much 2 days ago. I was watering twice a day. I should have started them in shadier spot and looser soil and less water. I'll remove some mulch so can get more air too.

I also think I overwatered a bunch of fruit tree and southern magnolia cuttings I'm trying to propigate, even with them in perlite, peatmoss, vermiculite mix and drainage holes. I switched now to rarely watering them based on finger feel, but misting the branches themselves. Some still have a change though I think.

I don't see those plants as dying. They're young and a bit wonky but the leaves appear to be green. They're newly planted and going into the end of the growing season so I honestly wouldn't be worrying too much.

well they didn't grow any more since the last photos but didn't get any much worse. I'm hoping it's just transplant shock and new plant needing to develop roots, plus I didn't add a soil acidifier yet and it's neutral pH and BBs like acidic but WILL survive in neutral but they should hopefully thrive next spring with some acidifier and org fert and regular watering.

This winter I'ma put insulated pots over them so they don't frost die hopefully.

I added some organic soil acidifier, and watered pretty often and one actually came back strong but then I think a rabbit ate the leaves. Now I have it potted in a shady spot for a couple months it hasn't done anything but roots may still be alive. I'll bring it inside for Winter again since it's fragile and very un-insualted in a pot on all sides. VS in-ground with mulch over.

but anyway, I'm guessing a) the soil wasn't as good as it could be (sandy, not watered enough, not rich enough in org matter although most the topsoil in this yard is very rich), not acidic enough soil.

But also that these were planted near light beige siding that the sun bounces off and probably caused leaf scorch I originally wondered about.

It only gets about half day full sun there but the bounce back of light from the siding I think scorched the you un-established plants.

So last year you said you overwatered, and now it wasn't watered enough? That makes no sense. Last year it was quite non draining soil, and now you are saying it's sandy- which is a fast draining soil and does not match your OP pics. That does not make sense either.

And blueberries are supposed to be in full sun all day- I live in a produce growing area, and all the blueberry fields and bushes in folks yards are all in full sun. So light bouncing off your siding wouldn't be a problem.

And blueberry leaf scorch isn't from too much sun- it's a viral disease. Red leaves also can be from a magnesium deficiency. And they also turn red when it's gets cold because that's their autumn color. Red spots on leaves can be a fungal problem, and that can be treated.

Also, be aware that while blueberries do like their acid, a soil can be too acid for them to like growing in.

You need to get your soil tested for where you want those blueberries to be. For nutrients, composition, and pH.

What have you been fertilizing with? Blueberries are very sensitive to nitrate based ferts.

I wouldn't worry about putting insulated pots over in-ground bushes for the cold. Blueray is hardy to zone 4b and Legacy is zone 5. I rarely have much winter dieback from my blueberry bushes, maybe a small tip here or there amongst all of them, but not enough to harm them. For the rabbits and deer, though, yes, a pot can be helpful in the winter to protect the tender tidbits, but I prefer a bunny wire cage year round for tiny, tender plants when critters are in play. (My poor Bluegold gotten munched almost to the ground the fall after it was planted. It was a set back, but it's recovered and is almost big enough to fruit now.)

The pictures in the original post look normal for new plants adjusting to their environment, particularly if they were mail order, as they had to endure shipping as well as climate and soil changes. Not getting bigger in the first few months is also normal. (I prefer to pick up my plants at local nurseries; you can get a bigger plant that's used to your climate for the same price as the mail order plants.)

It sounds like you've moved them to a container now, since you mention bringing them in? I find containers more difficult for blueberries, particularly overwintering. I had a TopHat die wintering in our screened-in porch; we're not sure if the pot was too wet over winter, got too cold, or something else - it wasn't worth figuring it out, we just pulled it and put something else in the pot (probably a tomato). I now have two Sunshine Blues in pots that I picked up on clearance last year. They overwintered in the basement (around 50°F). (Hardy to zone 5 but that's risky for a container in zone 6, and they have shorter chill requirements than northern highbush, so wonky weather can bring them out of dormancy early.) They need very little water during their dormant months. I think they only got a tiny bit of water a couple times all winter in teeny tiny pots (I don't recommend that part.) They looked terrible when they went into the basement; they looked okay when they came out of dormancy, and they are lovely small plants now ... not big, but healthy. They are in potting soil since they are in containers.

If you've transplanted yours into containers, they should be in potting soil, not top soil. Potting soil is usually around a 6-6.5 in pH (most will say). Mine claimed a target pH of 6.2 and I made no amendments for the Sunshine Blues. (My other bushes are all in-ground northern highbush.) When you transplanted it into the pot, that is a setback to the plant's growth. (You started over basically.) If you include new pictures we can give better advice based on the current state of the plants.