Rose, Did those prices include the rebates? They appear "reasonable" based on the equipment quoted, but the ductwork add-on cost is high in my opinion. I strongly recommend the duct replacement/improvement if it is 25 years old and in poor condition (i.e., not well sealed if at all, falling apart, etc.). For that price, I would hope it includes sheet metal plenums and trunklines, sealed with mastic and insulated with R8 fiberglass insulation along well properly done R8 flex duct branches to the registers. It makes little sense to me to invest big bucks on equipment and combine it with an inefficient and/or improperly sized duct system. I think your approach is right to get more estimates and see where they come in to get a proper feel for the pricing in your market -- it truly does vary by area. If they are actually considerably lower (and you'd have to wonder what corners they'd be cutting), it looks like the contractor you seem to prefer is willing to work with you. I am sure you have read enough to know that finding the right installer is very critical in having a reliable, well-performing system. It sounds like you have found a good one by what you describe. I take it he/she did a load calculation based on the information they gathered and verified 3 ton is the proper size? Lastly, Trane is the right way to go in my opinion especially in an environment such as yours where the air is highly corrosive over time to the units. I visit Ocean City, MD somewhat regularly and it is very evident which units hold up better over time and still seem to be working well: Trane. Also, some great questions to be answered as provided by TD above. There are lots of details that need to be included on the written estimate. The above is a good start. This post was edited by ryanhughes on Sun, May 12, 13 at 11:07

4 turnbuckles from corners to rafters. Rope hoists on each end to rafters. A strong man at each corner to lift and place blocks between unit and pan. Once unit rests on blocks,slide a board under each end, lift off blocks in pan and block between board ends and joists. Flatten pan sides,pry unit up 1" with flat bar, slide angle iron cupped on unit corners or fastened by self drilling screws, lift and block up on joists. If there isn't room to lift enough to clear pan sides,lift enough to line pan with epdm shower material. Special glue and accessories are availble to install drain pipe fitting. Truth is this is a chore where one has to fly by the seat of their pants because every case is different. The unit is supposed to be hung above pan. The pan is there for emergency overflow should primary catch pan inside handler stop up. In day to day operation there should be no water in pan.

In order to get maximum efficiency from your system you need a new air handler (variable speed DC fan, etc.). The new fans use very little energy and can provide better air filtration. My old fan ran only when needed and used ~ $2/day in electricity. My new fan uses ~$0.20 and is on all the time (on low). Given the age of everything I would strongly consider replacing both items and make sure they are matched.

Our air handler is able to go either way on refridergant so we are going with a heat pump that will take R-410A. The technitian said that we can only go to a 13-14 seer heat pump. I wanted a scroll compressor as well. He said our air handler don't have a 2 stage motor on it...not sure what that means! Can't he change the cage to aid in a higher seer? We will stay with Goodman as stated above.