Hi ladies, I am a professional decorative artist, and may be I can help with damask stenciling. We do a lot of this finish for our customers, and really it is not that difficult, in fact for us the damasks are big moneymakers. The trick is to keep your contrast low, (so your mistakes don't show) and to keep your stenciling level. Use bubble level or laser level to keep it vertical. We always use foam rollers with rounded ends to roll the pattern, this way it's super fast. You can use brushes too if you have patience and lots of time! :) Damasks look best over a subtle mottled background, like sponging or colorwash. You still can do it over straight paint, but it may look less sophisticated. You should make a sample on a board before starting! Make sure you like your colors and your technique before hitting the wall. Thicker stencil will last longer. however broken stencil is easy to fix with pieces of clear packaging tape. You'll have to clean the stencil few times during the project because it does get pretty clogged with paint. Sometimes it is helpful to have 2 stencils so you don't have to clean them during the project. The easiest way to clean a stencil - place the stencil on a back of a baking tray( or other flat tray) in your sink and scrub it with a dishwashing brush under running water. this way it doesn't get entangled and bridges don't break. Make sure you have a mesh strainer in your drain to catch all those dried paint particles! Here are some nice quality damasks, priced very reasonably, check it out at http://www.cuttingedgestencils.com For inspiration and to see finished rooms please look at our decorative company portfolio at http://www.specfindesigns.com Hope this helps, Sincerely, Janna Here is a link that might be useful: Cutting Edge Stencils

Thanks so much! I have no idea when the current paper was hung, or by whom, so there's no telling how difficult the old stuff will be to remove. There's a few loose seams, and it looks like I'll be able to just wet it and peel it down, but you know how that goes. I'll definitely use the Gardz on the wall. I see there's a ton of wallpaper posts on the paint forum, so I'll read through all of those, too. If the paper is a standard size, then I'll need just a hair over one roll, so I should have a lot of paper to play around with before it actually goes up. And about that paint color...when I picked up the chip, I thought "Ew!" It looked like a dark brown/pink in the store, but when I got it home...wow! Really, really pretty! The entry faces east, but also gets a lot of light in the afternoon from across the room, which faces west. I'm going to do a sample board, but so far, the chip looks really nice, all day.

I've hung my own wallpaper for years. It doesn't require that much skill, just the proper tools, a good sharp utility knife and patience. Dry strippable pre-pasted wallpaper is the easiest to use, and to remove once you're tired of it. Walls should be cleaned first, and primed to allow for easier removal. I would suggest that a beginner not start with wallpaper that has a large print on it, for there is more technique involved with matching seams and measurement with large prints, plus considerable more waste. A stripe or a small print would be the easiest for a first-timer. There are plenty of websites that give good instructions on how to do it. You should give it a try! Here is a link that might be useful: hanging wallpaper

1. Stripping it before it is completely dry would be fairly easy. So time if of the essence in making a decision. 2. He certainly could have taken the first strip off at any point though the strip would have been ruined. It sounds to me like you had an extra roll though so what was the problem? 3. The paper was improperly installed regardless of the brown. It is mismatched. That is unacceptable. Period. 4. The guy knew he was going to be hanging something vintage. If he was not familiar with vintage paper, he should have done a little research before he started hanging. When you know you are working with an unusual and expensive product, you make darned sure you know what you are doing before you start because that material comes out of your pocket if you screw it up. 5. YOU don't strip the improperly hung paper. The paper hangar comes and does it for you at no charge. 6. The procedure described by Annie, overlapping and then double cutting, was the proper solution. So if you have another roll, why not try it? Are there any scraps around that would allow the guy to do some practicing before he has to work on the new installation? 7. I tell my clients to accept nothing less than total satisfaction from their contractors. Paper hangars are well compensated for their SKILLS. On an easy job, I can find myself clearing $70 an hour, tax free. When something like this happens, I take a loss but it's my own fault. Even with the occasional loss, my average hourly income is still ample compensation for what I do. There is no reason for you to feel bad about requiring the guy to make you whole. I can't tell you how many jobs I've done, where the client paid me to strip and rehang a job they had paid another hangar to do! They take a total loss on the original labor and materials, and the cost of having me strip, because they don't want to hurt the hangar's feelings. And as crazy as that is, I have to say that I have done the same thing with contractors! 8. Covering the seams with trim is an option. It will look like you papered over paneling. It's the mobile home look, lol. And if you get your hangar to reimburse you the $400, you may be able to use that money to do something else nice for your kitchen. It's something to consider. I wish you luck with finding an inexpensive solution. Please keep us informed!