Staircase problem
R S
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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R S
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Staircases and the headaches
Comments (2)ROLe, thank you, thank you!!! It's people like you that make this forum so wonderful! Our plan is still not complete, but I'm saving your post. I think we've worked out our issues with the main stair case. But, we're trying to squeeze in stairs to the basement. I have a feeling I will need you!...See Moreengineered wood on stairs, adhesive problem
Comments (5)Thank you... and yes... I Did it! I managed to pry off the bullnose pieces without touching the planks, and only one of the bullnose pieces cracked a little. I think some good wood glue and clamps will take care of that. What I did was put a small piece of of the flooring set vertically underneath the end of the bullnose. Put a pry bar underneath it and gentle and with patience pried pushing up the bullnose along the front edge, little by little until the bond with the glue broke, and then I started to hear the nails creak as they came up....See Moreexterior stair problems
Comments (7)Lido, do you have any pictures of your steps? Nonskid paint is a must, definitely! Carol, I have never heard of topping pressure-treated lumber with stone. Have any more info? I know tiling on top of any kind of wood substrate outside with extreme freeze-thaw cycles is mucho tricky. Building brick steps is light-years out of our league. The precast concrete steps did come in an admittedly rather pretty brick-veneered option but they were very expensive and even the cheesy-looking ones weren't all that cheap because installation ran up the price for both plain and fancy styles, with our major frost-heaving they can't just be plunked on the ground, and then upgrading railings from the tacky metal ones was another pricy add-on. Casey - mahogany sounds lovely, but it seems very nearly a sin to paint it, no? ;-) ;-) I've never seen Spanish cedar, just Western Red cedar, but I will check with the fancy-foo-foo specialty lumberyard in the next county. This would actually be easier if we didn't have the stupid city codes regarding the handrails to deal with. There are several premade railings I've found that are attractive and appropriate to the style of the house, but they're always too large to meet code (maximum of 2 1/2" "grasping surface", which is pretty puny - the usual recommendation is to attach a skinny round railing to the inside of the larger railing which is REALLY ugly). I've seen a couple of railing setups that would do at Vintage Woodworks but their best options for exterior use are cypress and redwood. If I can find good cedar I can talk to my carpenter about how murderously expensive it would be to copy a handrail I like but isn't made in exterior-appropriate wood. I am already going to have him do the newel posts and balusters but those are just square posts with chamfered edges to match the porch columns, I could do them myself if I could hold a router anymore. :-)...See Morestaircase problem
Comments (9)What i decided on was extending my run as far as i can so that i have 10"s of exposed tread when im walking down. I have to drop to 14 treads an 8 1/4" risers to get it but i think it will feel better tgen the 7 1/2"s of exposure i originally had. No don92 i cant make any turns, its all gotta be 1 straight shot. I cant go back any farther because of a window and i cant go any more forward because of my front door. Im pretty much maxed out at a rise of 115" and a run of 140"...See MoreR S
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