What is the most overrated invention?
7 years ago
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Mulch over-rated?
Comments (7)"I live in the North." Alaska? The North is too vague. Please let us know approximately where you live (I promise we won't come to visit). You don't have to tell us your street address, but a city or at least a county and state will help. Conditions in Seattle are very different from conditions in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, which are different from conditions here in Utah, which are different from conditions in Maine, etc. I would stay away from anything with Annual Rye in it no matter where you are. As for the others, some areas are better suited to perennial rye than to KBG and vice versa. Shade can also affect the choice of grass. If you get a seed mix that has rye and KBG, you need to make sure you water until the KBG germinates. Many people will stop watering after the rye gets going, but the rye germinates in less than a week. Fescue germinates in 7-14 days and KBG can easily take 3 or more weeks to germinate....See MoreMulching is overrated
Comments (15)I agree with you and LawnDivot that mulching is overrated, but only in terms of it providing one fertilizer application as some might suggest. It is, however, still great for the soil in that it feeds the microbes because it returns organic matter, it adds moisture because grass leaves are 70-80 percent water, and it does return some nutrients, just maybe not a full fertilizer application although that is debatable. If thatch is a problem, mulching certainly will be, too. But, that is thatch-related and not mulching-related. In the case of a thatch problem, mulching will contribute to the thatch layer because they are obstructed by the thatch from reaching the soil so they can properly decompose. They're just sitting there on top of the thatch. Before you blame mulching on your thatch problem, you need to first examine your own cultural practices. The no longer needed parts of the grass plants are what form thatch. These parts have performed their duties and lived their expected life span - the natural process of attrition. Some grasses produce thatch faster than others by the way they grow. Bluegrass, Bermuda, Zoysia, etc. fall into that category because they have more growing/producing parts - roots, tillers, and rhizomes/stolons - than other grass plants that don't reproduce by rhizomes or stolons. Cultural practices that accelerate growth also accelerate attrition, and thereby also accelerate thatch accumulation. Fertilizing too much or at the wrong times are the common causes. Conversely, practices that retard growth also retards natural attrition, and thereby retards proper decomposition of the organic layer. Improper watering and mowing are usually the culprits. If you don't mow often enough or cut off too much (more than one third), you damage the grass because that impedes proper photosynthesis, which occurs roughly at the center of the grass plant. Mechanical practices, such as aerating and dethatching, done at the wrong times also contribute to thatch because the grass applies too much energy (food reserves) to trying to repair itself rather than the energy being used to sustain itself when active growth is normally slowed down. For that reason, you don't perform anything mechanical in summer to cool season turf and nothing mechanical too early in spring and not at all in fall for warm season turf. If you plan to aerate or dethatch bermuda, now is the time and preferably before a fertilizer application. If you've fertilized already, then wait until July but not August. Incidentally, neither should be done in 100 degree weather. Actually, not over 90° because it's just too hot. Compacted soil also contributes to thatch, so aerating now is a good idea. Yes, grass clippings break down faster with an organic program because the soil is friable, the microbes are already being kept busy and are free to do their jobs, and because there is nothing to accelerate plant growth....See MoreThompson & Morgan overrated?
Comments (20)I have had some experience with T&M and have to agree with many of the comments posted. I first came across the company many years ago and observed a significant change in practice as time went by, in particular I noted the vastly increased "hype" associated with their products (does anyone remember the edible carp for sale!); this I attributed to their increased focus on the U.S.A. market  in particular the usage of what I would refer to as "Americanisms", in the catalogue descriptions. I see from comments posted here that you guys have now got your own! As a customer of their seeds I was once invited to promotional event that they had organized in conjunction with a garden centre in a neighboring county. Whilst there I saw some fantastic gerberas on display, I asked one of their reps about where I could acquire seeds of these plants, and was somewhat sheepishly told that these where vegetatively propagated clones that where not available and were only for purposes of display! Partly as a result of this experience - in which I felt that T&M had been lest than honest - I took my custom elsewhere. I have also observed that the T&M marketing drive extends to U.K. gardening magazines aimed at the amateur, there being frequent mentions of this company in various articles and presentations sometimes "ad nauseum", which implies to me that some product placement deal is in operation. I would suggest that potential customers view the claims and additional hype that T&M generate "cum grano salis", and to make full use of sites like this and also the internet in general when sourcing seeds and plant material....See MoreBrandywine Sudduth - Overrated?
Comments (33)I must have posted this dozens of times but here it is again: I was fortunate to discover Brandywine Pink through the old Seed Savers catalogue when this variety was first introduced. Back then there was only one Brandywine (pink, Sudduth, Quisenberry). Today quite a few seed companies and especially transplants sold by Garden Centers offer inferior strains of Brandywine so the first thing you have to make sure is to get the true Sudduth (also called Quisenberry) strain, e.g. from Johnny's of Maine, quote: Around 1980 a Mrs. Sudduth of Tennessee gave seeds said to be in her family for 100 years, to tomato seedsman, Ben Quisenberry of Ohio. This is a strain that Craig LeHoullier believes is of the original Brandywine (end of quote). I grew Brandywine Pink next to my old favorites and immediately became convinced that Brandywine was by far the best tomato I have ever tasted. This opinion has not changed in nearly 20 years comparing Brandywine Pink to over 100 other taste champions, although Marianna's Peace recently introduced by TomatoFest comes close to or even matches Brandywine Sudduth in taste. I guess what I am trying to say is that I am a big Brandywine Sudduth fan, by the way not only due to the wonderful flavor but also due to the truly unique mouth watering texture of a vine-ripened Brandywine. I also grew Brandywine Red Landis strain and this is a different animal altogether. While the Landis strain is quite nice neither taste nor texture match Brandywine Pink Sudduth strain. As experienced Brandywine Pink growers know, this variety does not set fruits in hot weather (possibly due to defective blossoms or split calyces as was pointed out on this forum by Carolyn and I think Craig), even here in Southern CTs zone 5. As VP International I had to travel and live in different parts of North America and Europe. I grew Brandywine in Northern Germany, Dublin/Ireland and Northern Italy. As Brandywine is a late season variety, starting the plants early and getting them into the ground early was absolutely necessary in Germany and Ireland and is also important here in CT. I use efficient Metal Halide grow lights and cool basement conditions which gives me sturdy stocky plants. It allows me to start Brandywine 9 weeks before setting them into the ground. I plant well established, hardened, stocky plants out in early /mid May depending on the weather conditions and go out of my way to protect them against cold temperatures. I noticed that Brandywine did really well in the lower sun intensity countries so while my other tomatoes are planted in full sun, Brandywine does best in an area where high trees block the summer sun around lunchtime. However, you will also get good yield if you follow these rules: Most gardeners are growing tomatoes in far too rich soil or over-fertilized soil and often use too much fresh compost. Carolyn Male, author of "100 Heirloom Tomatoes for the American Garden" said it best, quote: The result of using compost in the planting hole and added to the soil and using too much fertilizer and too many amendments is that plants are stressed by growing too fast and the stress helps induce blossom end rot and also makes the plants far more susceptible to various diseases (end of quote). Over-fertilized soil prevents early fruit set. Add to that the fact that Brandywine does not set fruit in hot weather and what do you get: Disappointing yields. By observing the above mentioned suggestions: 1. Start early 2. Grow the plants in soil that has been fertilized the year before 3. Try to provide some shade during hot summer month you will get good yields. I foliar feed with a marine brown algae extract and water once with a stinging nettle manure tea after first fruit set. This procedure is repeated when the first fruits start to turn pink and after the first significant harvest. While tomatoes are ripening I will side dress sparingly with a high potash natural fertilizer blend based on sunflower, rapeseed and soybean meal together with kelp meal, lignite, rock phosphate and mined sulphate of potash or greensand. The ratio is N:P:K 5:4:8. ThatÂs it. Follow these instructions and you will be astonished about the yield increase of Brandywine Sudduth strain. And if you have never grown Brandywine, get ready for a treat....See More- 7 years ago
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