I like curtains set up like Kevin's, although I have a bit more wall space between the top of the window and the crown/ceiling. I also like a "trouser break" length, so they more than touch the floor. Mine were custom so I was able to place them exactly where I wanted. The designer that helped me with fabrics tends to hang them lower and make them shorter, a look I don't like, so I had to make sure she listened to my instructions so that I would end up with drapes I liked. The blog Cote de Texas has a section on drapes with lots of photos comparing drapes hung higher and lower.

We have a patio door w/cordless, cellular shades (Graber brand). The look is similar to a French door but the panel on the left side is stationary. Consequently, the door part (on the right) opens toward the stationary panel on the left. The problem w/the cordless cell shades is that they stuck out too far from the stationary panel and from the door. This meant they would hit each other whenever the door was opened too far (it couldn't open all the way due to the shades). This happened a lot, unfortunately, because it was the door to the backyard and we go outside frequently. We've had the shades about four years; in the last six months or so, one of the cords snapped on the shade on the door so the blind would no longer stay up. We opened and closed these shade a lot b/c I liked them open but DH wanted privacy. Another thing about these shades is that they clanked against the door whenever it was opened or closed. I found that very annoying. I'm looking to replace these shades with panels on flush mount rods. Incidentally, we have a window with a corded cellular shade purchased at the same time and it's working great.

I just installed solar shades in my high rise condo and although my layout isn't identical, it is similar in that there is essentially a wall of windows. A difference is that my bedroom is a separate room although the bedroom essentially is one wall of windows which are separated into three frames. I have large shade in the bedroom which makes functional sense because I am going to have the windows either covered or uncovered. My living room has a patio door so it's broken up functionally somewhat differently since there are three windows - patio door - column and then another set of windows. For obvious reasons, I have three sets of shades since the shade for the patio goes to the floor. However, it's the same principle with the three windows having their own shade - the patio door having a shade. I would suggest getting motorized shades as now that I have them, I can't imagine having to physically go back and forth to the windows to adjust them. I also got tinted film for my windows to block destructive UVA rays plus heat somewhat. I don't need my shades for my privacy but only want to keep them down when the sun is directly beaming through. The film helps block heat and destructive UV during those periods when there isn't direct sun but still strong light. I used to have a western exposure and don't envy you if you live in a warm climate :-). On the advice of my designer I went with Q-Motion shades. They are not widely advertised like Hunter Douglas but are high quality and quite a bit less expensive..

@cpartist "H, (capital) I, and U shaped plans are NOT optimal for freezing climates. Then why are so many houses in the Northeast I shaped?" I always interpret you saying 'I' as a skinnier rotated 'H.' If you are referring to a basic rectangle, then say "pure single rectangle." Then realize that doesn't happen with custom homes when working inside-to-out unless you force it. Also realize that this particular thread's plan is a basic rectangle. "I also love how people here tell everyone to hire an architect and when people do that and post an architect designed plan, that also gets torn apart! Can't please them whatever you do! This is true. Of course someone had to graduate at the top of their class, and someone else had to graduate at the bottom. Maybe I should suggest that they hire a person of design talent but then again, too many have no clue about that either." You can easily tell when an architect/designer's handprint is on something. It's ridiculous to say someone has no talent at all, for a particular project you have no idea how the process came about, just because they don't subscribe to the same style or elements you prefer, or you notice some problematic areas within the design. If you're experienced in creating floor plans, you can review another and recognize elements that a creator intended to meet a design criteria. That can easily lead to other conflicts in the overall design. In all too many threads, commenters go from 0-100 in dismissing the plan, designer, and the OP's very conception of a project completely. Save the "get a real architect" and "set the plans on fire" for when it's obvious a homeowner is DIYing and over their head. Also hate to burst your bubble, but I can go through any of the projects "real" architects (even your vaunted ones) share with Houzz and tear them apart. I could tear apart fawned-over historical precedents commenters give as examples to illustrate concepts. I could tear your house apart too. Likewise I could post many projects I've done and tear them apart for you. Such are the frustrations with clients, budgets, and design criteria. If you're a chef, not every meal is a 3 star Michelin. As an artist (I understand you are), if you create an artwork chances are it is not the piece de resistance. Circling back to this thread's plan, there are surely conflicts like the maze hallway and dance floor in the Laundry, but demanding to eliminate bumpouts or remove gables, crosses into style, not strictly good design principles. The restraint in this plan considering it's scope and it's translation into the elevation is overall a good one.