First of all, don't panic, yellowing leaves isn't usually a sign of impending death unless it goes on for a long time (brown or black, on the other hand, are not particularly happy colors for roses). It could be that they're recovering from replanting, or more likely, from finding themselves with a bit too much water to drink in their new, larger homes. Let them get just a bit dry before watering again (not totally dry, but the very top of the soil should be slightly dryish on top and the pot should feel quite a bit lighter than when it's wet); this often seems to help new plants' roots adjust and breathe after their first transplant, when they're small and fragile, and these deep (but not frequent) waterings help to prevent root rot in most containerized plants. I would also give them as much direct sunlight indoors as possible - remember that sun coming through a window is already filtered quite a bit by the glass, so anything less than that is truly shade as far as the rose is concerned! This will also help them speed up their use of some of the excess water in their potting medium, if there is any.

Yes to all your questions. Plant in as large a pot that you can handle. I use a tree pot which is as large or larger than a half barrel. I move it with a two wheeled dolly. J&P ships a large plastic bag with a wad of moss with their tree roses, or they did at one time. It's been years since I ordered a tree rose. Wet the moss and place it in the center of the canes. Place the bag over the canes and wet moss. I loosely secured the open bottom of the bag with a long twist tie. This creates a little greenhouse with high humidity and keeps the canes and leaf buds moist. When the buds begin to leaf you can remove the twist tie and allow the humidity to vent. After another day or two, remove the bag but by then it's probably blown away. I've successfully forced a number of tree roses and slow to break dormancy bushes this way. A thick wet sponge will work as well as the moss. Keep an eye on the moss and wet it as necessary.

Soak them in buckets several hours or days before planting. Then soak them in with a lot of water, over 5 gallons, to settle the soil. Don't tamp clay soil or even step on it when it is wet. Then mound the plants or spray with an anti-transpirant to prevent dehydration. Remove any white shoots that are exposed above the mound, as they will not survive in the sun. The initial watering with last for 2-3 weeks in winter. When new growth appears through the mound (about a month), reduce the mound with a flow of water from the hose, or very carefully remove it by hand--new shoots are very fragile. Young plants will use 2-3 gallons of water per week in spring, or twice that when they are 3 feet wide in hot weather. You can fertilize very lightly once they are leafed out. As to soil preparation, best practice is to prepare the bed uniformly rather than deep holes with special soil. I dig 12" deep with a few inches of manure or finished compost (compost in the US sense, not UK sense). Alkaline soil may need a pH adjustment. Maintain a mulch of organic material 2-3 inches deep at all times. This will improve the soil over the years. Take great care never to compact the soil when it is wet. This post was edited by michaelg on Tue, Jul 1, 14 at 9:55

The leafcutter holes on my roses are the same size as on my peonies. I grew up seeing leafcutter bee cut leaves. My step dad rented the bees as did all the farmers. They are also wild around here. The only thing I can offer is possible different varieties of leaf cutters, or a totally different insect doing the damage. However, after seeing the photos in the link, I may have learned something new today (at my age), and the peony damage certainly looks like weevil damage. Not going to worry about it. This stuff comes and goes and doesn't seem to increase around here. Thanks for the info, Patty. Diane