Dumb question: bathtub-only plumbing fixtures
Comments (36)
weedmeister
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Redoing/restoring 1929 tub surround and plumbing--stumped
Comments (9)Well Kmcg, you're not the first one to scratch their heads about this one! I had a local plumbing/bathroom remodler come over and take a look at it, and he also suggested redoing the plumbing. But in order to replumb we would have to take out the tub, redo the drain, etc. The estimate he gave me was 8K, but that was also to remove the tub and put in a new one. So yes, it WOULD be so much easier to have the plumbing on the square wall. But it's not, lol! If we go through the trouble to redo the plumbing, really makes no sense to keep the original tub. But it's size and configuration works for the tiny space. I've had this house for 8 years and have been round and round about it. My neighbor had his tub torn out, no change in the location of the drain and water feeds, and had a built-in tub installed. But he also had the whole bathroom redone, including removal of the radiator to give more space in there. We just can't afford to do something that elaborate, nor do we really want to spend that much time and have the bathroom that torn up. We're not sure how much longer we'll be in the house, so we want to keep it as simple as possible. The plastic shower surround setup was not very well installed (I inherited it) and it is getting pretty gunky so we need to do something. We want something better than what we have but want to stick with the original tub, since its size and shape works with the current room set-up. BF is a great tiler and carpenter, but he's no lover of plumbing. It does baffle me why they set it up that way. I seem to recall talking to one of my neighbors who still has the original tub, and I think maybe she said there wasn't a shower originally. These are row houses so are all laid out the same, but there have been MANY changes to them over the years! I do know all of them are plumbed that weird way. The electrical wiring for the bathroom light is on the other side, with the switches outside the bathroom. Here's a picture I found online, but as you can see, the more logical plumbing! And here's a real life example: But I'm sure there was some original logic to the way the tub was done. BF thinks we will be sorry if we don't keep some kind of wall there. If we do have the wall, it will be very tastefully covered with ceramic tile. We may tear out the front of the low wall this weekend to get an idea of what is in there. Right now it is a mystery because the newer hot and cold water knobs on the low wall are located about 3 inches farther away than where they would be on the tub wall. We'd really rather do this job all in one big fast work session, rather than go without a shower for a couple of weeks. This is our only bathroom and we can only work in there on the weekends due to our real jobs. Whatever replica fixtures I get I will have to special order so trying to get an idea of what it will entail ahead of time. We have the tile ordered already, which was probably a mistake, its for the current set up. But when shopping for fixtures we realized we have to change what's going on with the "L" side in some way. We were anxious to get this underway!...See MoreTub/shower plumbing question
Comments (13)Here's the easiest, or should I write an easy solution, hopefully in words and terms that you can understand. And hopefully within your budget. Symmons makes a very good pressure-balanced valve, the Temptrol line. They sell them at Home depot for around $90 give or take, depending on what comes with the valve. They may sell the valve alone, I'm not certain. I've usually seen it packaged with a shower head and tub faucet. I'm not terribly familiar with big box plumbing. If they don't sell the valve alone, you'll want a "basic valve kit" that comes with a pressure-balancing valve with a built-in tub/showerhead diverter lever, a faucet spigot, and a shower head. They make a few variations of this, but it's general designation is "96-2". Although it comes with a shower head, you can buy your own handheld hose and head to attach to the arm that comes out of the wall. Or if they do sell just the valve by itself, buy the valve, plus a tub spigot, plus a handheld outlet, a handheld hose, and a handheld head. Yes, there are variables because you're asking for a slightly non-standard set-up. Then you want a second Symmons Temptrol valve. If you can't buy just the valve, buy the 96-1 valve kit, which is the same valve as above but it just includes the shower head. No tub spigot. That will feed the rainshower head which you'll have to purchase on your own. Although the valve still has the diverter lever, when it's plumbed to just a shower head, in this case a rain head, the diverter lever will act as a volume control to the rainhead instead of a diverter to the tub. You'll have a hot and cold water supply line coming into your shower. Split both lines with a copper "T" fitting so you have two hot water and two cold water lines, one to feed each Symmons valve. The 96-2 valve will feed either your tub or the handheld. You choose which with the diverter lever built in to the valve. That's your typical bathtub/shower setup. The separate 96-1 valve will just feed the rainshower head. Two different controllers, but it keeps thing simple and affordable. Plus you now have the ability to select different temperatures for the two shower heads. There are other ways to do this, but I'm trying to keep this simple and inexpensive for you. Symmons does sell valve kits that have all the goodies you want, but they can get expensive, up in the $500-$800 range, but they don't allow the two shower heads to be used at the same time....See MoreDumb Q -- which is more expensive, tub or stand-alone shower?
Comments (9)THe labor will be the big cost difference here. A correctly done shower is a lot more labor than is a simple alcove tub with tiled walls, especially if you have to hand build the shower floor. Using a prebuilt pan does help to cut down the labor, but it still a bit more time involved than a tub. The two also have different plumbing requirements, so that is another area where labor costs can be different. You will have to have the drain relocated and enlarged for a shower if the area is already set up for a tub. And while you will still need to waterproof the walls for either setup, the actual amount of tile involved won't be dramatically different. If you do a shower curtain instead of tub door (which are nasty and difficult to clean) the costs will be less expensive. Even a box store stock door can run you $400 if you want frameless....See Moretub/shower combo fixture replacement question
Comments (13)People replace just the showerhead all the time. They replace a "regular" head with one of those "spa" like head with the different types of water sprays, they replace with a handheld, they replace for the look of it. You do not need to replace the faucet or the other part of it. All nickel or stainless look fixtures pretty much look the same - the finish that is. It is a DIY if you can follow video tutorials. However, if you want to replace the rest of it and you don't have any DIY skills, I'd hire a plumber because they requires turning off the water and hooking it up to the right temperature....See MoreMittens Cat
4 years ago
acm
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoWhat kind of faucet you need depends on how it will be mounted, not what the tub looks like -- out of the wall? out of a deck around the tub? etc. (also, want a hand sprayer too?)
Get the right thing if you can, rather than closing off extra outlets. 30 seconds on this site found a zillion in the $100-300 range, including these:
Motegi Single Handle Wall Mounted Roman Tub Set, PVD Brushed Nickel · More Info
Mod Two Handle Roman Tub Trim Set, Polished Chrome · More Info
Delta Cassidy Roman Tub With Hand Shower Trim, Less Handles, Chrome, T4797-LHP · More Info
AKDY Brass 38" Handheld Shower Head Freestanding Bathtub Faucet, Chrome Finish · More Info
I searched for "tub faucet." :)Mittens Cat thanked acmweedmeister
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
PROAnton Onipchenko
4 years agoMittens Cat
4 years agoI say "either" because our G.C. said he could do either kind of install at this point. I was aiming for a roughly 4'x3' shower on the left of this photo and a 5' tub on the right. There is a total of 104" for shower and tub. The tub will butt up against a wall that will enclose the toilet space. I think this photo makes it look a bit smaller than IRL. There is 92.5" between the this wall and the wall it faces (where the vanity will be--still working on making that vanity wider and shallower, possibly changing door to a window for that reason).
Hope this helps!
Very sketchy sketch....obviously not to scale.
Mittens Cat
4 years ago
PROJAN MOYER
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoUser
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
PRODebbi Washburn
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoHmmm doesn't seem right...I feel like there may be a better layout..
At 92" across the room minus vanity depth 22" minus a 36" walkway ( a bit small ) only leaves you a 34" shower base depth. The glass will be an inch or 2 in from that...Also you will have some sort of wall or half wall between the shower and tub? So that will take 5" off your shower size.
Can either of the doors move?
Can you even make changes at this point? You are on cement slab so I'm not sure.
I bet you didn't expect all this when just asking about a faucet.... and you can get a simple tub faucet for an alcove tub - they are made that way ( just like a standard tub/shower faucet without the showerhead ).
Mittens Cat thanked Debbi WashburnMittens Cat
4 years agoOK, I'll start over with the architect's original floor plan before answering specific questions (as best I can at this point since decisions are still being made). Toilet is in a separate area (not sure why architect designed so much space in WC).
I agree the interior space (104" length, taking into account 5/8" drywall on both ends) is very tight for a shower + separate tub. We were thinking a 36x40"-ish shower plus a 60" tub, which I figured came out to 100". We're both on the small side so we're OK with shorter shower or smaller tub (shopping for small tub now).
Our G.C. is known around the community for being able to figure out creative ways to solve problems, so we shall see!
Sorry this is fuzzy, but on the far left is an outdoor patio/courtyard. The number 2 at the bottom represents the door to the master bedroom. Knowing what I know now, I would have asked architect to shrink the walk-in closet considerably, especially since I never had a desire for one (all my clothes could fit into one large suitcase!).
Mittens Cat
4 years agoMittens Cat
4 years ago- PRO
JAN MOYER
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago Mittens Cat
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoHey, that helps a ton, LOL!
GOOD NEWS: I read the measurement wrong! The space for shower and tub is actually 113" long, not 104". (The 104" was the length of the vanity wall.) So, not all is lost! We can squeeze in a tub as well as a shower. We're not into oversized showers anyway, thank goodness.
@JAN MOYER, not sure about your reference to our loo room as a gas chamber (weird), but it's probably the lightest, brightest part of the bathroom thus far, thanks to this crazy set of windows! It also will have a pocket door with obscure glass, so I think we'll survive the gloom...somehow! :)
Mittens Cat
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoThanks @GreenDesigns. I appreciate all points! We currently have a slightly oversized shower (36x48) at the condo we're renting and neither of us enjoy all that room (nor extra cleaning), so I don't think we're really into a bigger shower. I suppose we could add a climbing wall or something in there....ha.
I guess I can give up the built-in tub and go with a small freestanding tub instead. I don't believe we need a pony wall (if that's what those are called) because the plumbing for the tub will be on the back wall dividing main bathroom area from toilet closet. I think the shower's plumbing will be mounted on the far opposite wall (an exterior wall, true, though one that gets a lot of sun in our scorched climate).
Not super thrilled how glass shower walls typically look next to freestanding tubs, but my aching back will probably appreciate the tub no matter what.
The shower is going in that corner on the right (and that doorway will be a window).
- PRO
myricarchitect
4 years ago
Mittens Cat, here is an example of a drop in tub with no deck. The tile skirt flush with tub lip, with a shower in the corner just like your configuration.
It’s not mine, it’s from the MTI Bath website. I’m sure you can find a small bathtub for your space https://mtibaths.com/products/tubs/basics/Mittens Cat thanked myricarchitect Mittens Cat
4 years agoMittens Cat
4 years agoMittens Cat
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoMittens Cat
4 years ago@myrica4, still hoping too. Originally (well, currently) we have an exterior door that made things too tight between vanity, door and shower (too many competing doors and drawers), so the vanity was going to have to be shrunk to a much smaller profile. But now we're most likely going to ditch the door and replace with a window (ouch), so still working out vanity dimensions. I'd love something like this:
But...I may have to stick with reality do IKEA double vanity instead.Mittens Cat
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
Cheryl Hannebauer
4 years agoMittens Cat
4 years agoMittens Cat
4 years agoMittens Cat
4 years ago
Helen