Can you hang anything from engineered I beam floor truss
Nikki Schwebel
4 years ago
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robin0919
4 years agoNikki Schwebel
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Want to hang incandescent pendants from a beam
Comments (6)We have a 5.5-inch wide, 24-inch deep, 40-foot long ridge beam down our main space. I try to minimize use of track lighting (though I have it over the island) so I ran wiremold conduit out to several boxes along the beam (two fans and five spotlights) and then covered them all with doug-fir 2x6's. I routered a slot down down the middle of the 2x6s for the wiremold and cut out squares for the boxes using a jig saw, and then used a finish nailer to attach them over the wiremold. I didn't really need the wiremold (romex would work fine since it is all covered) but I like the extra protection. The canopies for the lights and fans hide the cuts for the boxes perfectly. Unless you look very closely, it looks like the lights are flush with the bottom of the beam, with the wires somehow run inside the beam. I used a short length of flexible conduit to run the wire out of the wall and under the 2x6's, and covered it with the same treatment we used for the walls (American Clay) so it practically disappears. But I could have just drilled through the bottom of the beam from the end inside the remaining attic space. I was assured that was no problem by our structural engineer, but in the end I didn't want to take any chance of threatening the integrity of the beam. If anyone's interested, I could post a picture of the results. It turned out fantastic. The only tough part was finding lights and fans that would fit on the 2x6 width, and that wasn't too bad either, though it did somewhat limit our choices....See Morelight fixture temporary hang ... not from beam
Comments (9)chris45ny - Yes we are planning to have 3 stools. No... it can definitely be swagged over to the beam. I've had different opinions about where it should be. I prefer it over toward the beam, but my DH and his contractor friend think it looks just fine where it is. flwrs_n_co - Thank you ... I love the penisula! We were unable to make an island work in the kitchen, since it was too small, but I'm so happy with our design. As for someone hitting their head under the light, no its placed high enough. My DH is 6'1 and he has plenty of head space. palimpsest - thanks for your opinion, but the DH would kill me if I asked him to move another light fixture. We're unable to move a box under the beam, which is why I thought to swag it over if anything. I'll live with this for a while until I figure out what I really want to do....See MoreTruss/beams shifting over time. danger of collapsing?
Comments (11)So, you do have a problem - and I think you know it already. Trusses are engineered for a specific load and span - there's not a lot of excess capacity in them. You can't add "storage" on to a truss system that was never intended to carry the additional weight. Keep in mind that we aren't seeing the full picture or know the specs on the trusses, etc. but It's a pretty good guess that the trusses were designed to support the roof, not a load on the floor of the truss. The trusses seem to be coming apart due to excess weight. The first several photos - including what looks like a stress crack along the tension edge - tells me that these are overloaded. The other photos show what are now very weak splices (the connector plate is almost completely detached on a couple of them). This isn't safe. Time to check if your dad has recently taken out a big life insurance policy on you... right before he moved the piano into the garage storage above your bed. If it isn't clear from my post - I disagree with, "don't worry about an imminent collapse." I think that you do need to worry about just that. BTW: Nature sometimes has a way of telling you it's time to move out/move on. This is your clue....See MoreHelp with wooden trusses / beams , please!
Comments (3)Those pictures make me wonder what kind of building, where, and how can such small purlins be possible. If I was doing it I'd start by jacking up the damaged parts, remove all of the electrical and wood bits that were added for the electrical, and sister new purlins to the sides of the broken pieces. If you can't jack up from the floor you're going to need to rig something up to get it all back to where it should be. I would add a purlin on both sides and generously screw through the damaged piece all the way through into the other side. I'd use headlok screws, staggered maybe 12" o.c. The new purlins don't have to extend the entire span, maybe a foot short. I'm not an engineer, and I take no responsibility; like I said it's how I would do it....See Moremillworkman
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoVirgil Carter Fine Art
4 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
4 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
4 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
4 years agoworthy
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoVirgil Carter Fine Art
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoNikki Schwebel thanked Virgil Carter Fine Artseabornman
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4 years agoNikki Schwebel
4 years agoBT
4 years agoNikki Schwebel
4 years agoUser
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoNikki Schwebel
4 years agoUser
4 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
4 years agoNikki Schwebel
4 years agoHU-208369394
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoS Pal
3 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
3 years agoGary P
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
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