How and what to add for a lush wildlife friendly landscape
sambac
4 years ago
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sambac
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Help critique front native wildlife garden plans
Comments (18)I'm not well-versed in conifers, but do have a list at work from a presentation given by our Ag. Agent "Underutilized Trees & Shrubs". If I can remember, I'll bring it home; anything suited to our area should do just as well in yours. Right off the top of my head, two deciduous woody plants with good winter interest are the river birch (betula nigra) 'Heritage' and redosier dogwood. 'Heritage' is better suited to our hot summers than white birch, and is resistant to many of the pests and diseases; as it matures, it also develops a lovely an interesting exfoliating bark. There are a few different varieties of the redosier dogwoods now, with different coloration. They thrive in full sun to part shade, but will have better winter color in full sun. Winterberry holly is deciduous, and you need both male and female plants, but will have a beautiful display of bright red berries in winter - for the birds or to cut and bring indoors (use them as supports for your forced paperwhite bulbs ... great combination). I'm glad to see you've chosen the serviceberry (shadbush, amelanchier, etc.). Check the different varieties for the characteristics you prefer - some have more vibrant fall foliage than others. The berries are very attractive to wildlife (I didn't realize chipmunks climbed trees until I saw one gathering berries in one of the serviceberries at our park). The berries are edible for humans, if you can get to them before the wildlife does! They taste a lot like blueberries. One of my favorite local nurseries is also a good resource for information, rarefindnursery.com. Even if you don't order anything from them, you will find a lot of photos and information and I've always found it to be reliable. Ah, sweetbay magnolia (magnolia virginiana) - another native, semi-evergreen, very fragrant blooms (heavy in June, intermittently thereafter), seeds are colorful and food for wildlife. The undersides of the leaves are silvery, making a nice display when they flutter in the breeze. Choose an upright or multi-branching variety, according to your needs. Like serviceberry and river birch, they do well in a moist soil. Ninebark (physocarpus) is another deciduous native, for sun or partial shade. 'Diablo' is a dark red leaved cultivar with contrasting clusters of tiny pale pink flowers. I'm sorry, I should never get started....See MoreX-Post: Moving S of Tucson - need dog friendly yard.
Comments (30)Even if a turf lawn is small, it can add a great deal of beauty as a setting for other plantings. Keeping it "relatively" small can make it do-able. Confining it to a central location in the back yard is where it might give the most bang for the buck... being the "white space" for the plantings closer to the perimeter. (I can't speak to what greyhounds might do to it since I have no experience with them. Do they like to tear directly across open space, or use the perimeter like an oval track? The latter could be to your advantage insofar as turf goes.) An oval shape seems like it would fit the back yard nicely and if it was a pronounced, distinct, perfect shape, it could add a feeling of strength and organization to the overall design of the yard. Since the back lot line has low trees already, beefing them up with Palo Verde or Mesquite, so as not to see buildings beyond, seems like a good goal. I agree that neighbors could not expect that you wouldn't plant trees or that you would assume responsibility for their view. (When was the last time you thought about asking anyone to alter a tree on their private property to suit your needs? Where your trees cross the property line into neighboring yards, it's the case that they own the crossing portion and can do with it as they please. It might sound like be a harsh legal reality, but plantings at yard perimeters that provide some privacy or shade USUALLY work to the advantage of both parties. Usually it's not much of a problem.) Combining some views-below-canopies with privacy, where needed, seems like it would be easily workable. Along the cul-de-sac area, you might consider breaking up the run of wall with small groupings of small tree-form shrubs with open space between the groupings. Where I live, freestanding walls and fences are frequently treated by placing a lower hedge to run alongside them. To my thinking this is a complete waste of material and effort. It does nothing to interrupt the boredom of the wall length. Just like how periodic columns add interest to a plain brick wall, periodic plantings that exceed the height of the wall add visual interest. Large flowering shrubs make good small trees for this purpose. Grouped tightly in 3s, they also add depth to the planting. As pointed out, the TYPE of thorns that plants have make much difference. I would not think thorns on TREES would make much difference (in general) to people or pets as the thorns could easily be placed overhead and out of reach. Plants without thorns can be placed at lower levels. And in some cases with certain plants, thorns that are highly visible and obvious may be acceptable. The patio area is somewhat like a stage positioned to play to a 180* view. Of course, the actual viewing occurs in the opposite direction of what it would in a theater. Here, the audience sits on the stage and views the "theater seating" area, which is the back yard. After you determine the actual square footage of additional patio needed, you might consider making its distant edge to be arranged in a semi-circular, octagonal or similar, bay-window-ish shape so as to "play" to the rest of the back yard. It would need to fit with lawn shape. Setting small groups of trees to both sides (not between "stage" and "seating") could provide shade and maintain an unobstructed view to the lawn and remainder of back yard. Trees selected for what their canopy could become (as it relates to patio and house) would be important. The discussion of wall heights surrounding the back yard can be confusing. As you refine your ideas you might submit a revised plan for the wall that only indicates what portion of the wall is ABOVE your back yard grade... as that's what really matters from back yard viewpoint. Also, for discussion purposes, I suggest that it would be easier (especially since your house is set at a diagonal to cardinal directions) to refer to right/left/fore and aft--as one would view the yard from standing at the street facing the house--as opposed to NE/SW/SE/NW, as those require one to memorize the directions or to go back and look at a previous drawing. Right, left, fore and aft is easier....See MoreDog and Cat Friendly Garden Landscaping
Comments (1)How big a dog? Shade would be helpful I should think. I like Mesquite trees. I like hardscape for the civilized desert look so raised beds work to add interest, make gardening easier and generally dogs stay out of them. I like Pergola type deals too. A pondless water feature is very nice imo for a civilized desert look and the dog would always be able to have a drink. Some like to lay in them to cool off. For the ground I like decomposed granite. Dogs don't seem to mind walking on it and they don't seem interested in digging in it, but that depends on the dog. My dog likes to dig in soil with compost for the smell I think. Manure is like cat nip to them. No interest in dry clay covered with decomposed granite. Their feet don't get too muddy in it. Not really a desert look but fake grass as come a long way. My neighbor just installed some for her boxers. A cat friendly backyard is one a cat never goes into imo. Just because cats roam widely and generally it's just a question of time before a car, dog, other cat, or whatever gets them. But if you really want the cat outside I can tell you they love water features that attract birds. Cats love to kill stuff so that's always fun. Some cats like fish ponds, but others seem to show no interest. If you want more of a lush civilized desert look you can do bog beds which are basically small ponds filled with soil. Plants that like wet feet can then be planted. Very low water use and you get impressive plants and flowers with very little effort. Plants stay contained. In AZ I've tried Canna and sedges and both worked very well. There are others too....See MoreLandscape plan designed for wildlife?
Comments (7)You will have to seek a landscape designer with the same interests as you. Do some research on wildlife friendly landscaping so that you know what kind of language to use when interviewing people and discussing your needs. There are thousands of websites and hundreds of wonderful books that you can browse. I have to laugh at the way you worded your first sentence:"When people get landscape plans created are those creating the plans designing it around what looks nice or what will attract wildlife?" It isn't an 'either/or' kind of issue! You wildlife landscape can look absolutely beautiful, even traditional if you like it that way! It just boils down to the proper plant selection and the appropriate placement and combination of those plants. Wildlife friendly landscapes must have plenty of cover, habitat, food sources, open spaces, as well as plants that do not require pesticides (insecticides, fungicides, herbicides, miticides, etc.) in order to manage them. But you can have lovely trees, flowering and fruiting shrubs, annuals and perennials, and even expanses of lawn. Use a variety of resources for your information so that you can glean ideas from a wide range of experts. THEN, you can be more confidant in making sure that a landscape designer will be doing the right things....See Moremr1010
4 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
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4 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
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