I'm getting a bit picky here but bear with me. Ticor does not give a spec drawing but no problem if you have the sink. When you get home, measure from the center of the drain to the back wall and across the center to each side. Then it's easy to figure out where to place the faucet exactly. Also take a quick look at the Grohe link below so you understand how the water looks when it comes out in the spray mode -- it's a bit wider than the stream mode. This is not a difficult adjustment -- you just want to understand it well enough to get the counter guys to work with you on the placement before they drill. D sinks often have corner placements. It looks like the lever works side to side and that it's installed facing front so clearance shouldn't unless you're in a corner or some tight space. From the spec sheet you linked it says your sink is 10" deep. But Ticor is a couple of sandwiches short of a full -spec picnic and no contact phone number. Sheeesh. But no worries, you have the sink. Here is a link that might be useful: Faucet spread

Funny you should mention this! I am contemplating putting one over my sink and I do have a window there. There is a 35 inch space between the two cabinets. I have an island with seating that faces the sink....so people could sit at the island and watch sports etc. I am a foodnetwork addict and I usually work on my island with my back to this area, but could move to the side of the island if there was a good episode on so that I could watch. I think it would be a really nice set up...I am supposed to get a bonus on my first check in September and off to Ultimate electronics I go!

Do you already have the cabinet? (my guess is yes) Did they have specs on the fridge before the cabinet was ordered? How tall is it? Framed or frameless? What brand? I'm guessing you can't get in between heights in the brand you have? I would really want the cabinet to flush with the depth of the panels. My guess is you need 3/4 to 1"? If this were my job ... If you can get in between sized doors... -and you have framed cabinets- trim the cabinet height splitting the amount at the top and the bottom (1/2" off each and order a shorter door -frameless cabinets- cut down from the top and rebuild the top using dowels Can't get in between sized doors- -framed cabinets order shorter doors and 2 fillers (or a rail if they can get one and a filler) -cut down the height of the cabinet from the top, rebuild the top using the new rail and install the doors add filler to bottom of the cabinet. -frameless same as first option. OR order a new cabinet- -if I messed up on the specs I'd be paying for it. If you did not supply them you would, if the appliance mfg did (they do you know) we'd split it. If the height of the opening is less than 12" then you are just as well off using a 12" deep cab since dividers become less useful than the cost of the extra depth. I'd still pull it to the panels though, just save you $$. IF the height is really low then I don't even use a cabinet- my kitchen ceilings are 7ft 6 in- I originally designed it with no cabinet over the fridge, just a panel with a return (worked out since I "fell into" a Sub Zero and was able to fit it without throwing away much money)

I'd prefer the closer-to-the-wall option - but also make sure that the light from a single can over the sink overlaps with light from adjacent can lights. Otherwise you'll still experience shadows while working. My sink is illuminated by undercabinet LED strip and three adjacent can lights. The cans are about 3' apart (one is centered above the sink cabinet and the others are equidistant on either side) so there are no shadows. I have upper cabinets on that wall and the cans are ~20" from the wall. The undercabinet LED strip is about 10" from the wall. This might seem overkill, but with all the lights on, my sink is a bright workspace and I love being able to see everything well.