That's the problem here, the name Abies x koreocarpa was never validy published. Please let me know if it is. On the other hand I like the following names very much: -Abies x koreocarpa (A. koreana x A. lasiocarpa) -Abies x lasiokor (A. lasiocarpa x A. koreana) -Abies x procekor The first specie name shows the motherplant were the cones came from, which is in my opinion very important to know. I use these names at my website if I have these availlable. This year I have availlable Abies x koreocarpa 'Fürstenburg'. I also have the following Abies crosses listed: Abies koreana x Abies pinsapo 'Zipfelmütze'. There's never a name published for this cross. Should it be named Abies x koreapo 'Zipfelmütze? Abies grandis x 'Leuteneggeri' This one is also from Germany but this name doesn't show us that the cross is between an Abies grandis and an Abies concolor. A better name should be Abies grancolor 'Leuteneggeri' Btw this is a very nice cultivar, it looks like a blue Abies grandis! The name Abies x vilmorinii doesn't show us that this is a cross between Abies pinsapo and Abies cephalonica. Maybe Abies x pinsonica was better... Final conclusion: The original name for the 'Waldgrenze''(which means 'Forest Border') is Abies koreana x 'Waldgrenze'. A better name should be Abies x koreocarpa 'Waldgrenze' Maybe there must be new nomenclature rules to make it clear which the parents of these crosses are. Till now both the parents names can't be found in a lot of crosses.

Maple: My concern about the "log in" process was simply that a bunch of sites don't let me see inventory or price lists until I create an account. I got a lot of names of other nurseries by searching for other threads, but I don't know which ones carry what I'm looking for. I dislike creating lots of accounts with passwords I'll never remember. I have no objection to mail order...it's just that when ordering things that are common I prefer mail order places from my region. I figure the trees will be more used to the local climate and less spend less time in a box en route. Removes a couple variables that can go wrong. The advantage of mail order is they won't try to sell me a bagged and burlapped tree I have no objection to cultivars...it's just that for many of these trees there are a million cultivars, most of which seem to be dwarfs. (Serious collectors seem to love dwarfs...) It's not always clear from the catalogs which are dwarfs. Ken: I gave the Latin names for the first couple. This post was edited by edlincoln on Sat, Jul 26, 14 at 12:23

Boyz-I get a lot of my stuff from Darren at Whistling Gardens. It's mail order from Canada. Check the link. He has a huge selection that is ever growing...along with a detailed description of most of the trees he sells. He is very knowledgeable and a great person to deal with. He is where I got my 'Pendula Bruns' and 'Moon Shot' from this fall, I got the 'Van der Akker' from him last spring. It was about 8" tall or so. Planted and moved it about three times this spring, and it still put on a good 10" of growth or so. I was really impressed. I think he has the 'Sparkling Arrow' too, but not certain. As far as wind goes, I don't know why it would be a problem, IF it has a good trunk. What it the difference of a 50 foot tall tree that is 50 feet wide as opposed to a 50 foot tall tree that is only 5 feet wide? A trunk is a trunk as far as I am concerned... My 'Jubilee' which is similar to the other nootkas is about seven feet tall without support, and it gets a lot of wind on the north west corner of my deck! If I'm wrong on my trunk theory, somebody let me know! However, you may be better suited with the 'Pendula Bruns'. It will probably handle the wind a bit better IMO. The nootkas will be more droopy and blow about a lot more than the Picea's which will have a stiffer branch structure. Good Luck Eliot P.S. As far a dryness goes, don't know. Ask Darren, he is a wealth of knowledge and probably advise you. Here is a link that might be useful: Whistling Gardens

Good morning Katrina! Cotton root rot is a fungal infection of the soil for which there is no well-known chemical treatment. It is very persistent in the soil and pretty much wiped out the cotton crop once grown in many southern states. Millions of dollars have been spent studying it, but no real solution has been found. One researcher at Texas A&M has had some success in recent years with a combination of encapsulated (slow-release) nitrogen fertilizer in combination with certain commercial fungicides and the addition of various minerals he has found to be deficient in soil infected with cotton root rot. One reason cotton root rot is such a problem is that it is able to lie dormant in the soil for a long time, perhaps many decades. The best solutions are to try to acidify your soil, since it thrives in soils with a pH of 7.0 to 8.5. I have had some success in controlling it, but not eliminating it, by working large amounts of compost, peatmoss, greensand and other amendments into the soil. Using 1 lb. of ammonium sulfate per 100 square feet of soil twice annually helps, but there is no guarantee. Improving drainage also helps, but does not eliminate the fungas. I don't know if hot compost would help. I tried it one year with fresh cow manure, and all I got was every weed known to mankind. :) One of the main treatments for cotton root rot in areas where field crops are grown is to grow various monocots, like sorghum and corn, and till them into the soil once they are mature. This seems to help slow down, but not completely eliminate, the fungal disease. It is not a practical solution for the average landscape, though. Growing up in Texas where the main crop was once cotton, and my daddy's family were once cotton farmers, I knew all about cotton root rot long before I experienced it firsthand myself. When I lived in Fort Worth, I listened to Neil Sperry's radio gardening show from the time he began it in the late 1970s to the time I moved here. Countless times I heard him diagnose certain types of sudden plant death as cotton root rot, and most of the time the gardeners involved simply didn't want to accept his diagnosis--I assume because none of us wants to have a disease in our gardens for which there is no simple cure! When I began planting here and had cotton root rot problems, I was just sick about it. Over the years I have worked hard to improve the soil in the area where I have had the problems, but the cotton root rot still rears its ugly head every now and then. With regards to composted cotton burs, I have never heard of any problems with them being a carrier of cotton root rot. As far as I understand it, the cotton root rot attacks and destroys the roots of affected plants but does not travel up into the plant system. Infected plants die because they can no longer receive nutrition via their now-decimated roots. I think it unlikely that you could ever find any trace of cotton root rot in composted cotton burrs. Cotton is still successfully grown in the High Plains of Texas, and one of the by-products of that plant would be the composted cotton burs. I believe no one in Texas would process and sell those burs if there was any chance whatsoever that cotton root rot could be in them. One of the leading researchers in the area of Cotton Root Rot is Texas A&M University. In reading their data, I have never seen any concern expressed about cotton root rot being transferred via the burs. Cotton root rot seems to be more of a problem in parts of Texas than in Oklahoma, but that doesn't help you if you are in the part of Oklahoma where is has reared its ugly head. Hope this info helps. Dawn