I got the glass through a local shop. My situation was different, as only one wall, the "front" door wall, was glass. The other three walls were kerdi and tile. The sloped glass ceiling was captured in the walls on three sides and clear silicon was used to seal the remaining side to the front wall of glass. I'm not sure what type of specific seal was used on the door. It might have been clear vinyl. If you do a search or ask at the glass shops, it might also help if you refer to it as a "raked" (sloped) front wall of glass. Actually, lemme see if I can get a quick google hit... Found one at Wilson Glass. Not exactly what you're looking for though. Using something like that with a sealed transom overhead would work and be the lest expensive. Having the front wall as a single piece of glass with the door cutout of it would be $$$$$.

pinktoes -- That may be overkill. We have Nu-Heat in the floor of our master bath, and two floor registers from the gas-fired forced air furnace. This is a north-facing room with a roughly 66-inch X 80" archtop window (north) and two additional windows (west). The floor area is 11 X 14 and the ceiling angles from 9 feet to a flat that is 12 feet high. We're in the far north suburbs of Chicago -- haven't seen the ground since the beginning of December with ice and snow. My Ultra-Bain air tub has a heater and our shower is glassed, but open a couple of feet at the top (not totally enclosed like a steam shower). A friend in AZ had a walk-in (no door) shower that was so 'breezy' she showered in the guest bath. We'd be in real trouble in our master bath without the floor heat because the HVAC guy was a dope. We'd planned for the Nu-Heat there, but ended up adding a small boiler and tubing under the other north-facing rooms because the ducted supply was inadequate. I really think the Nu-Heat is doing almost all the work in our bathroom. Could you just wire for that space heater and add it only if needed? Will the bathroom floor heat be on its own thermostat? While we're talking warm bathrooms, let's not forget to put DOORS on our bathrooms, folks! (And heat vents in the toilet rooms.)

I would plan for the lighting to be complementary, not for the recessed lighting to be all coverage: Plan for the recessed lighting to provide good general lighting for the bathroom as a whole, but don't expect it to be in the correct position to light the vanity and the mirror in the way it should be lit. In other words light the bath from the ceiling like you would light a kitchen from the ceiling, enough to illuminate the whole room as general lighting, but don't expect it to be the task lighting as well. Plan the vanity lighting for optimal vanity lighting. This is essentially the task lighting. It should be switched separately. Light the shower separately. Sometimes I like to take a shower in the relative dark, compared to the rest of the bathroom. Sometimes I like the shower light to serve as a night light or for guests to at least navigate in the bathroom. Overlight it all slightly and put it all on dimmers. I recommended switching the fans separately and no lights on the fan. The light they provide is generally pure glare. I am doing a bathroom that is the size of some showers (28 square feet total) and it is still going to have 3-4 lighting circuits and a separate fan circuit.

the two should be fine. in my spare bath I have one over the shower and just the vanity light,,,(has 4-60w bulbs). plenty of light. 2 cans over a vanity, plus your vanity light, seems a bit much. example of your size bath (give or take) with only vanity light and shower light two smaller shower lights, vanity light