Nlion - We probably have the same set !! I'm still thinking about having mine re-done in black - but before I do that drastic measure - I am going to try new knobs/pulls. My new home will have oil rubbed bronze hardware and lighting, so I will try to find them in that fininsh. Maybe the will be enough and not using the top part of the hutch will update it enough. I really want my new home to be transitional- so I may have to get new fabric on the chairs, maybe get rid of the two chairs with the arms and buy two fabric chairs. I have a beautiful, very expensive oriental rug that matches the fabric and drapes, but I may have to find another home for that too. I think I should wait and see how everything looks in my new home before I take any drastic steps. Deep down I love my dining room furniture, and it's only used maybe 4 times a year. So I hate to part with it and buy another set. Maybe someone will give us some other advise to update it - easily.

1. What should I use to strip the original finish > Use a chemical stripper containing Methylene Chloride in a well-ventilated area. Use protective equipment such as gloves, apron, and goggles. An organic cartridge respirator would also be a good idea if you have any doubts about the ventilation. 2. Once the finish is gone, I am assuming it is okay to sand out all of the nicks in the wood? > It's hard to tell from the photos, but the top may be veneer or solid woods. Harden, I think, uses a lot of solids, but most mfrs' table tops are veneered to retain flatness. If it's solid, you are safe to sand. If it is veneer, then, no, only do a light sanding with 220 grit. Consider the dents character marks or "distressing" that you did not have to pay extra for. 3. Do you think this is Walnut? How do I match the finish to the rest of the items? Should I take a chair into Sherwin Williams to have them match the stain? > Walnut does just fine without stain. In fact, stains can muddy the figure and make it look less attractive. 4. What type of protective finish should I use after staining? I am thinking it may have originally been shellac (finish is very cloudy in some areas) > It is most likely lacquer, the most common commercial finish used in the last 60 years. Lacquer can degrade over time and light exposure (like all finishes) and be more prone to blush. What I would do: - Apply two light coats orange shellac. This will do two things 1. Bring out a lot of the luster (chatoyance) in the wood. 2. Seal in any potential contamination from silicone oil (Pledge polish any time over its life) - Apply several coats of a wipe on varnish. A readily available source would be General Finishes' Arm-R-Seal. That is a wiping polyurethane. If you want a more high-brow finish, you could use Waterlox. A non-poly choice would be Sherwin Williams' Fast Dry Varnish. You can brush either of the latter two with 5-10% thinning or wipe with 50% thinning (equal amounts of varnish and mineral spirits).

Update: After doing more research on spar varnish and finding the post I will refer to below, I went to my local paint store and had a long talk with the owner about my project. I decided to go with minwax semigloss clear polyurethane and I was advised to use a lambswool device to apply the poly. Then I came home and read your recent posts, Richard - and yes, product I was talking of (the spar varnish) is a quality product but after more reading I just didn't feel right about using it on this table. I also found this thread on "woodjocks" website and found the discussion leading me towards poly even more. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/2565 So, I have a applied one coat of poly with the wool device. I am not sure how I feel about this wool idea - it seems to leave lint behind? I am thinking of switching to a brush, or to disposable foam brushes for the next 3 coats. Any advice on how to proceed from here onto my last coats of poly (even just some encouragement) is appreciated. I'm not sure how I like the semigloss finish - its nice, but I hope it will be waterproof and repellant to dinner sauces, wine, etc. I am also feeling concerned about my work environment. I am working in a free standing garage and the temps are supposed to dip down into 40s this week at night. Will that be a problem in between dry coats of poly? Here is a link that might be useful: thread on spar varnish I found

No matter what anybody says, a spot sanded down to "new wood" and refinished will never match the original finish, (well maybe when none of us are around to see it.). Both the finish and wood have developed a patina over the years. If the new spot is stained to match the existing, it will be darker in the future. Especially if the original finish was a oil based finish and the new one is water based. At a minimum, if an old finish is being left on in places, the same type of finish should be used where new is applied. If it was my kitchen (and it sort of is, since I did this to my cherry kitchen a few years ago), I would strip it, sand, stain (if desired), and finish, that way everything will match. BTW, Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba) is not cherry, not even in the same family (genius or species) as American Cherry. It's a made up name for sales.