A fast-growing tree 20 feet from a sunken pool? Sounds like a recipe for large repair bills to me. Dan

Many times I'm OK with matching odds 'n ends. But the brick path seems to be in opposition to a contrary pattern that could be happening within the flagstone field. I would consider removing the brick if they're not mortared in and re-using them at the far end of the patio, border-like, or something similar. (If the brick were curved in the opposite direction AROUND the tree, I might contemplate otherwise.) Then, consider installing the new flagstone with TIGHT joints (which would require saw-cutting) in order for it to be of compatible character with the existing ashlar pattern stone. I would not make wide joints with moss in between. Instead, make greenery all around the patio perimeter. Also, I think it would also be better to find a nice paint scheme and paint the little storage shed. Consider an overall layout as follows ...

There is a school of thought you plant evergreens North of the house to block North winds in te winter and deciduous trees to the south so that you don't lose southern light in the winter but get shade in the summer.. So...I probably won't suggest live oak for the back yard. The fruit tree shouldn't be too near the house. Anything you plant near the house should be strong wooded (so it doesn't drop branches on your house some day) You really need to put a tree in the middle of the yard if you want to fit in any large shade tree. As to putting trees on the edges...do your neighbors have ugly yards? Trees at the edges can be great as privacy screens or windbreaks, but could interfere with the flower bed or fruit garden. I'd stick something tough...iron wood or something...to the right of the porch. Put the biggest tree or the female american persimmon in the middle. Another thought...Diospyros texana (Texas persimmon)

Planting fruit trees west of the Cascades requires some research. Our climate is mild enough (both summer and winter) that many types are not very successful here. Any of the better independent nurseries/retail garden centers here will carry the varieties that are most suited to the Puget Sound area. I am not aware of any self-pollinating pears other than those that have two or more varieties grafted on the same tree. Like apples, they need a pollination partner ;-)) And I would also urge you to reconsider nectarines (also apricots, pluots, apriums and other similar hybrids) as we just do not generate sufficient summer heat for these to fruit well. And if you decide on a peach, I'd stick with the 'Frost' variety - it was developed in this area, is a good fruit producer (and very tasty!!) and is very resistant to leaf curl. Fruit trees tend to be most often offered bare root in late winter (February/March). If you can find any now - usually sold out at this time of year - they are just the remaining bare root stock that has been potted up, so not well established or very mature. Finally, I will leave you with a couple of online resources: the first is the WSU Fruit Trials, a compilation of fruit growing data specific to the Puget Sound area produced by the WSU Research Center in Mt Vernon over several decades. It will also link you to the best publication regarding growing fruit in western WA (upper right hand corner). The second is a link to Raintree Nursery, one of the largest mail order fruit sources and one of the best, also located here in western WA. They grow and sell most varieties best suited to this area but be sure they are clearly labeled as such, as they sell across the country as well. Avoid purchasing out of the area unless you have done all your research on specific Puget Sound suited varieties first!! And stay away from the box stores - while they sell a lot of fruit trees in early spring (and inexpensively as well), they seldom sell those varieties that are recommended for this area.