Hmmmm....several statements here are contrary to my experience :-) First, I'd question the relative hardiness of Prunus lusitanica versus laurocerasus. Hillier is the source that makes the claim for greater hardiness of Portuguese laurel, however most other sources reverse that opinion. Being a UK source, I'd approach Hillier's assessment with caution. Zone 6 (or lower, depending on specific cultivar - 'Zabeliana' and 'Schipkaensis' are usually listed to 5) for the English laurel but only zone 7 for the Portuguese. Trialing of Portuguese laurel in several areas of this country where English grows readily have proven to produce unsatisfactory results. And Ink, FWIW, English laurel hedges are ubiquitous here. And most are pruned/sheared regularly to keep them within reasonable bounds. Because of the large, broad foliage, a freshly sheared hedge does look a little whacked but the ends do not brown nor do the cut leaves die. They just look 'cut' until new growth obscures them. This many be more of a climate/locational factor, though. Here's an image of a well-maintained, decent looking English laurel hedge : Regardless of these issues, unless you are willing to devote significant routine maintenance to either of these choices, they will outgrow the space allotted in due course. There are other alternatives you could consider. Choices of Japanese holly (Ilex crenata - faster growing than box) or Euonymus japonicus 'Green Spire' would fit the bill and without the need for the same extensive maintenance the laurels require. What kind of privet? Evergreen forms (L. sinense and japonicum) are rapidly becoming invasive headaches in many parts of the east coast and common privet, Ligustrum vulgare, is a weedy looking plant that is on the New England Atlas of Invasive Plants as well as that of the US Forest Service. I wouldn't hesitate to remove them.

If these are Prunus laurocerasus I would take issue with their requiring acidic soil. They are becoming a weed tree in woods here on most soils. You don't say where you live so it's hard to know what temps these have been subjected to. Here they will grow in quite dense dry shade such as under trees so I wouldn't expect them to enjoy heat. What cultivar are those? They seem very small. Are they a dwarf such as Otto Luyken?

Yes, I assumed the original query was based on reading of British origin web pages - or otherwise ones not from the region where the planting is desired. The Willamette Valley has a history of being a major production area for nursery crops that are sent all over the country - the vendor booths at the annual nursery trades show in Portland used to be real heavy on purple Japanese maples and blue spruces, presumably because those could all be sold in quantity to big markets back East - so if the online guide to Oregon stock currently on offer has no listing for this cultivar it makes me think it is not on the market much over here, if at all. Of course, it might have turned out to have been circulated among growers in some other part of the country where commercial production of this species is possible. Another relevant point is that both commercial and non-commercial references repeatedly misuse the USDA zones (if they even specify those are what they are referring to) when representing the hardiness of plants being described. It seems the concept of 0F-10F etc. representing the AVERAGE range of low temperatures blows by most people, with the result that if a plant burns at 10F (the top of the range of average lows for USDA 7) then it will be stated it is hardy to Zone 7, and so on through the list. So the Zone 6 designation for 'Rotundifolia' could be based on the belief that the cultivar is hardy to 0F, which would be fine until someone planting it there got -5F or below. The USDA Hardiness Zones web site recommends you choose plants rated at least one zone hardier than your zone.

I live in a wooded area of southeastern PA and it is well known to all landscapers. Garden nurseries such as Snipes in PA, or in NJ Vincentown Nursery that sell the varieties of laurel (though most prefer the easier Schipkaensis laurels, that annual fertilizing of the shrubs is recommended in Spring to maintain as well as to promote good foliage and growth. Winters here are not exactly a predictable trend, and even this past season, the leaves in some of the middle sections have turned brownish or yellow. The plants are not completely deer-proof even after they get dense and quite tall. So my posting is based on my own experience as well as those professionals whom I have been in contact with. The soil can be whatever it is but laurels are an acidic fertilizer loving plant like a blueberry, azalea, or rhododendron, and most evergreens as the Holly. So I hold to my comment about fertilizers and schedule. Not many ever commented on their care in the past on the web. Others had similar problems with the laurels dating back to 2006, and not one comment appeared until 2012. So thanks for the reply and concerns. If yours are doing good then good for you. Mine are quite dense, lush and full bearing with flowers, berries, and new leaf growth. Of course every Spring, there is always a very small amount of spent leaves.