I used to move Houses [not just mobile homes I did that also] real full sizzzzz HOUSES, where I used all types of heavy machenry everything from a hand shovel to a motor grader even a 200 foot crane, I was also a forman plowing cable and house drops for the phone company among many other type construction jobs. The first and only ones you should ask this question to is your local Building Inspector, Fire Marshall and the Health Inspector,,, each of them will know the answer according to the codes in your area. It is not weather you place them in the same trench, ditch or what ever you want to call that hole you make in the ground,,,,, the real question should be, what is the legal spacing between them,, the depth and what other safety measures do you need as well, since you are placing the two of them together Id say that they will tell you at least 3 foot deep, and will also probably tell you that the electric will need to be piped with PVC etc. if that close to a gas line, and going into the ground from what ever box it goes into on each end. I will tell you this,, If you are cutting through roots rock and other debree, it is easy to cut through a gas line or electric wires with a machine and not even notice it. Even if they are 2 foot apart and some one comes in with a ditcher, trencher, cable plow, back hoe or what ever CROSSING them and cut them both, the gas will escape and when the power line is cut [and possably even after it is cut] I'll assure you that it will spark,,, now you will probably have a fire. It is nearly impossable to put out a natural or LP gas fire untill a shut off valve is closed... If that operator didn't know the utulites were there they more than likely will not know where to turn the gas off either. Even if they were spaced 10 foot apart. Gas has little limit of how far or how fast it spreads, the wind and confinement has a lot to do with that. If a gas line is cut by a cable plow and then 10 foot later it cuts the electric lines the gas is sorta confined in the small trench and follow the plow and now its like the gas line is laying beside the electric line only you have the whole trench full of gas plus what seaped out,,,,, now we are talking about explosion!!! I would rather be watching from a distance than operating either of those machines at that time Since you are talking about two items that you do not really want screwing up while laying beside the other,,,, The farther apart they are, the better,,, the deeper is even more better. BUT you do not want to get so deep that it is unsafe to be in the trench, OSHAs law states you have to have a cave in protector if over 4 foot deep or "if the ground is so week that cave in is possible". Now that I have you scared to [almost] death,,,, if you haven't made up your mind, get on the phone, all three numbers should be in the yellow pages. good luck - PS,,, I'll bet you would never even think trenching in gas and power to your shop would be this complex did you???

Mass laws now require a CO monitor in every residents. I have two, one in the basement and one outside my bedroom door. It doubles as a smoke detector too and has a verbal (actual voice) warning as well as the beeps. The orginal CO monitors had a short lifespan, due to the sensing element attached to the battery. Both got replaced and ran about $25. Now they are a lot cheaper and last a lot longer. The stand alone electric burners are, at best, not going to be more than 1000 watts and don't really have enough heat output to get a big canning pot boiling, or recovering to a boil after adding the jars. I use one of these elements in my outdoor smoker (Alton Browns clay pot type), and the internal temp barely gets up to a heat where the wood chips slightly smoke. Its cranked up to maximum, and has a big heavy cast iron pot to hold the smoking wood. I can't even use it in cold weather, as it just cools off too much. A vented hood over the stove, will give you a lot more safety if using propane indoors. Propane heat is great for the canners, but as mentioned, is hard to control if your wanting to simmer a batch of jelly or tomatoes.

> If you can install 240v for your dryer or wall oven why not for your car? You can, of course, if you own a detached house or townhouse. But this question unintentially illustrates the point I was trying to make - even though it's possible to install a 240V outlet, convincing people to do so has proven difficult even when the speed advantage is obvious. The GE Advantium 120 ovens far outsell the 240v versions, even though the latter make better tasting, better textured food (because they don't rely as heavily on microwaves), and also are twice as fast. But many homeowners put up with the limitations of 120V/15A because they don't want to pay an electrician to install a 240V/30A line. Same with 240V washing machines - they can be fed cold water and still are faster than 120V machines that have internal water heaters, and can heat to higher temperatures. The best way to wash clothes is often to soak it in cool water first (so certain types of stains won't set), then heat the water as it washes to a high temperature that blasts out dirt. This takes a long time with a 120V washer. Combination washer/dryers that both wash and dry the clothes in one shot are popular in Europe, but here most manufacturers don't even offer them, and those that do, like LG, try to make them run on 120V/15A to be palatable to Americans. So not only does it take a long time to wash clothes, but an even longer time to dry them. Only Fagor-Brandt sells a 240V combo washer/dryer in the US, and it's hard to find except online. Nobody even sells a 240V dishwasher in the US, and noboby's brave enough to try, despite frequent complaints about how long new dishwashers take to complete a cycle. Maybe Americans value fast electric car recharging more than they do fast cooking or fast laundry. We'll see.

mike_home, If that was a temporary shipboard installation on a submarine I'd say it was a temporary pressure connection with a pressure gauge and a Schroeder valve to permit pressurizing with air. The tie wrap on the valve ensures that it is not opened during a pressure top test and also ensures that air will not be introduced into the gas supply. Does the plumber use such a test rig to do a pressure drop test on new residential gas work? This post was edited by saltidawg on Thu, Jan 17, 13 at 17:18