The first is a maple. The second is an oak.

if it is YC ... its fully MI hardy in z5 ... so out it goes ... see link on planting ... it is not a houseplant.. and wont thrive as such i would plant it.. outside NOW ... maybe in a few weeks in your zone.. would defer to others on that ... and until planting.. i would keep it outdoors in full bright shade .... if the media is moist.. do NOT water it again .... until it dries ... or is planted ... i would not be surprised if it doesnt lose all its leaves after transplant.. being deciduous and all ... and as such.. hardening off is a minor concern .... i dont see a graft ... and wonder if it is a real YC .. if it is rooted??? .. did you get it from a reputable nursery??? follow ALL directions at the link ... and protect from deer if any ... it is not a baby ... and with trees... odds are higher that you will kill it with too much love ... rather than proper planting and watering .... which is not love.. but reality .. ken ps: if you insist on repotting it... your media will be the #1 issue Here is a link that might be useful: link This post was edited by ken_adrian on Thu, Oct 2, 14 at 10:14

Generally the rootstock variety is not worth keeping if the upper variety of the plant dies. My cherries are grafted onto Mazzard rootstock. This is considered a semi-wild variety of cherry, and if suckers are allowed to grow out from the rootstock, the leaves look noticeably different from the leaves of the rest of the tree. A sucker is a new shoot being sent out from below the graft union, generally you want to immediately trim them off to prevent them from growing. The Mazzard variety can produce edible cherries, but they are almost certainly very inferior to the regular cherry varieties. There is a reason people do not grow them. Some advanced gardeners let the rootstock keep on growing because they can use it as the base to graft on another variety of cherry cuttings in the future. The advantage is that the rootstock already has a well established root system, so a new graft would be well situated to take off. Although almost all fruit trees now are grafted, this does not absolutely have to be the case. Generally, however, own-root cherry trees tend to grow more vigorously, which paradoxically means that they take many more years to begin producing fruit (because the nutrients are diverted to growing the trunk and leaves). This is one of the main reasons all commercially grown cherries are grafted. Own-root cherries can also grow taller than desired, making it more difficult to pick the fruit. (There is a reason that a basket crane machine is called a "Cherry picker") Own-root cherry trees also have much thicker trunks, they grow like a "real" tree, not something like you find in an orchard, but it is very rare to ever encounter one.

No need to move your post - we maple people are general tree people as well:-) We just like maples a lot! And the answer to your question is pretty simple. The anthracnose will be an ongoing problem if conditions exist for its development and regular, at least annual, treatments will be required to control it. It is seldom a fatal affliction but it can cause defoliation and that can weaken the tree, leading to other issues. Plus, a tree with anthracnose always looks pretty funky and unhealthy. The pathogen that causes sycamore anthracnose is unique to that species so composting the diseased leaves should not pose any problems unless lots of other sycamores in the vicinity and the composting process not very thorough. Although a diseased sycamore will not grow as fast or as large as a perfectly healthy tree, they can get quite large and maybe not the best choice for a suburban garden. I'd look into replacing the tree with something that will be more attuned to your specific climate and location, like a native Texas species or something like a Shantung maple, Acer truncatum, which is very well adapted to a TX planting situation.