Well, imo established large trees don't transplant very well. Thrive for me is best if I use the smallest possible tree, but then there are years to get it to size.

Just something for you to be aware of.

Also, sap suckers happen and there's not much that can be done about it. But seldom do they kill the tree (that would only happen if girding occurs or the tree's wounds are invaded by some pathogen maybe).

Remember this, a 16" caliper Red maple (acer rubrum) would be over 70 years old. And red maples have a normal life expectancy of 80 to 100 years. Many reds by that age are well into decline by several years and maybe a decade or two.

That is a very good point! He said it is 35-40 years old. But also said 16 caliper. And I don’t think those numbers make sense he also said they live 125 years but sounds like that’s not typical.

Climate, location and many other environmental factors can make a difference.

I'm from the same camp as dbarron. A tree that's dug from the ground can take several years to re-establish it's root system, back to where it will resume vigorous growth again. The larger the tree, the longer it can take. I have no experience with trees as large as you are considering but I would think success would depend on how big of a root mass they can manage to move. There should be a percentage of roots to crown needed when calculating this. The more roots the better.

Of coarse depending on, anything can be done: Historic tree moved video:

"16" caliper Red maple (acer rubrum) would be over 70." I think this is not correct. Annual rings can easily be 1/4", 3/8 and sometimes even 1/2". Double that equals 1 year's girth. Hypothetically, a 16" caliper tree of quarter-inch rings would be 32 years old, each year adding 1/2" to the diameter.

If I had the bucks to buy a 16" caliper tree I still wouldn't do it. I would be looking at the 4" to 6" range. A well cared for (after planting) smaller tree is going to get up some good steam within the first or second year. A larger tree will likely have a harder time of getting going and be slower about it. And the chances of it failing are greater. Too, I would not be looking at red maple. It's OK but does not rank, for me, as higher class. It is more like working class. I don't know Parrotia enough to say about it.

' "16" caliper Red maple (acer rubrum) would be over 70." I think this is not correct.'

Again, geographical differences can vary greatly. A zone 3 tree will have smaller rings than a zone 7 tree for instance along with moisture, soil composition and many other factors. Did you miss that?

The OP still hasn't given any form of location in the country, if it is even in this country.

We’re in Connecticut...

Obviously you're going to have the tree installed by a professional.

Where, climate-wise, are you located ?

That's an awfully large tree installation. You should know that smaller trees are better bets for a successful transplant. Any tree install means that the tree is hobbled by loss of roots ... and it can takes years for them to recover. A smaller tree can transplant a lot better ... and will eventually catch up to a larger tree in that same amount of time.

Those years with a weakened constitution will also cause the tree to be more susceptible to various survival challenges it will face.

I think that the OP should also see this video of the result of the large tree move shown earlier ... the tree is a shadow of its former self ...

https://youtu.be/Ia3I-fFvkJE

ok to start, I totally agree with everyone's points about a smaller tree establishing and taking off more quickly. My neighbor planted a 2" cal maple the same year (2006-7) that I planted a 4" cal maple, and there's a lot less difference in size now. BUT that 4" maple is still nowhere near a 16" maple today. Sometimes you want instant tree, and if you have the means and a good source, why not? We've had good success with large trees.

I'm lucky in that, having been in this business, I know who the good large tree folks are around here, who does the estate properties and federal gigs, etc. Even still I would probably have my consulting arborist visit the tree farm and give the tree a clean bill of health, or suggest an alternative. I'd then have them be part of the install, and have a post-transplant care plan in place with them. For what it would cost for that size tree (and if you're in western CT I'm sure that's even more than here) those consulting fees are a great investment.

Finding a good arborist to work with could be really helpful to you. Even if your metro area is big like ours (DC - Charlottesville corridor), the landscape industry tends to be a small community where everyone knows who does good work and who to avoid. Right out the gate your arborist will probably be able to tell you yea or nay on the tree farm, based on what they know.

Some tree installation considerations from this website ...

https://www.earthturfwood.com/landscaping-blog/large-tree-planting-costs-considerations-and-whats-right-for-your-lancaster-or-reading-pa-home

"As we mentioned, the term large is subjective. What you think of as a “large tree” might be different than what we think. First of all, it’s important to note that “large” is really relative to the species of the tree. While most people think about size in terms of height, what makes a tree truly large to a landscape professional is the size of its root ball. That’s what makes a tree difficult (or easy) to move and install.

For the purposes of this article we will consider a medium-size deciduous tree to be around 12- to 15-feet in height with a rootball of approximately 36 inches (though again, that is relative to the species). At that approximate size, a landscape contractor would be able to move the tree with their own equipment.

When referring to large tree planting in this article, we are talking about trees that have a root ball that is significantly more than 36 inches and that is likely 20-foot or higher. This size tree requires specialized equipment, which we will discuss later on.

Finding the Best Trees for Your Home

Every yard is different and every homeowner has different wants and needs. While trees of all sizes can be valuable to a property, some homeowners specifically like medium to large-size trees for the comfort and shade that they provide. A more mature landscape is both visually appealing as well as functionally desirable.

While homeowners will sometimes think they want the biggest trees they can get, large trees aren’t always necessary to meet the objectives of your landscape design. They can also come with some downsides.

For one, planting large trees can be a fairly involved process. It’s important to ensure that your contractor has proper access to the site if you’re going to be planting large trees.

Getting large trees onto your property will involve the use of a piece of machinery called a tree spade, which is very big and mounted on the back of a very large truck.

This may be challenging to get into your yard (depending on where you want the tree to go).

It can also become an expensive endeavor as tree spade operators typically charge by the hour. You may also have to pay extra to repair damages made by the tree spade. Equipment this large has the potential to be destructive on your property. And if the ground is too wet, it may be questionable if the work can even be done until it freezes in the late fall or early winter.

Though we’re able to coordinate the installation of large trees if that’s what you truly want, sometimes it’s actually better to opt for medium-sized trees. As we often tell our clients, bigger isn’t always better. Since large tree planting can become laborious, it’s a lot easier to coordinate the installation of a series of medium trees"

"Some homeowners are surprised to learn that medium trees can have a faster rate of growth than large trees and in less time than they realize they’ll get the height they want or need. Medium-size trees will also recover more quickly from being transplanted than a large tree with a large root system. They can have a better chance at survival which is important when you’re investing heavily in tree material. When large trees are moved, much their root system can be destroyed in the process. It takes a long time for those roots to repair and there’s likely no guarantee included on their survival. That can be a big gamble on your investment.

Because of medium-sized trees recovering more quickly, growth on the limbs and branches will begin years before that of a large tree. For this reason, you could end up having a medium and large tree becoming the same size in just five to seven years. The medium tree will catch up, cost less, and have a better chance of surviving."

"On average, a ballpark range of what it costs to install a 12 to a 15-foot tree, would be $1200 to $1,900, depending on the tree species. That is per tree, and typically just one part of an overall landscape design that already bears the cost of having a crew travel to your site and set-up. If it’s an especially complicated job, that price could be even higher. If you’re interested in large tree planting costs, you can assume a spaded tree, 20- to 25-feet in height, could easily cost double the amount of a medium tree if not triple the cost.

Purchasing multiple mid-sized trees will often serve the same purpose or ultimate goal as a large tree, and often at less cost. The installation won’t require a large tree spade or the excessive amount of labor or damage to the site."

it appears most everything has been covered ...

all i might add ... is that if it took all summer it wouldnt matter to me ... and i would spend said summer touring other suppliers.. and find the best tree available.. within a couple hundred miles ... or even ordering one in from further away ... in other words... if a sugar maple was my dream.. i would take the time .. to find one ...

i would NOT SETTLE for a damaged tree ... even if just cosmetic ... in the price range we are talking about.. unless it was significantly discounted ... and even then.. crikey.. its right in front of your castle ... thats not where i would plant damaged goods ... out in the backyard .. maybe thats a spot for it .. if they forced me to buy it ...

ken

ps: one other thought.... do you know how to properly water a transplant of this size ... it will take a lot more than lawn irrigation.. to do it properly ..... watering grass is not equivalent to watering a tree

This is all so helpful. Revolutionary gardens nailed it – I do need instant tree, or at least something somewhat substantial. Even though there’s no way to replace what was there (see photo). I really appreciate Ken_Adrian’s advice… Wait and find the right thing. I am now leaning towards a 13 inch caliper Sugar Maple. It will still look like an infant compared to what was there, so I may keep searching for a larger one, but it’s very healthy, beautiful shape, and it will feel good to leave it behind for future...