Perel I just went through this with our basement remodel - Did all the possible water abatement possible - starting w/gutters/pitch, grade of landscaping, removing large bushes around foundation, putting in a new patio, dry lock painted on walls (after a good cleaning) - Floor clean then application of floor paint. When I researched about possible flooring on our refinish side - I decided I did not want any flooring where I had to wonder what was lurking or growing under there.. So an inexpensive wall to wall carpet ($250 including pad) seemed to be the answer - I purchased it knowing it may get wet & if so, I'll just throw it out - I have the tack strips on all perimeters - so it would be fairly easy to take this out & put a new one down. On the utility side I purchased a nice vinyl rolled flooring and had the floor cleaned,painted as well as dash patched for pitted areas - this would be an easy application for you - found in hardware stores just apply to pitted, unlevel areas like a cement let dry I just think adhesives will make the application much more difficult + the VOC factor - as well as difficulty removing in the event of water - and need to remove old adhesive for applying a new tile etc... Good luck

What a nice gift. Valentines day? Most people who do decoupage profesionally (or who have tried to like me,lol) coat with urethane not glue for exactly this reason. On the other hand I keep a bottle of Mod Podge or Aileens on hand for projects like sticking calendar pics to cardboard recycling boxes and I haven't had that problem with either of them. So called decoupage glue is a combination of white glue (like elmers regular) urethane and water. First: Let it dry some more! I'm wondering if you've got too much on in which case you may need a lot more drying time. Have you used so much that you could wipe it with a slightly damp face cloth without damaging the imagery, then let dry? If not don't and either way once its had more drying time such as another day in warm dry place with the pages separated so air can circulate, I would try Krylon Krystal Clear spray on one part of one page (mask the rest and spray a corner) and see if that helps. 2 light coats let dry between. I emphasize that you need to let the glue dry all that it can first. Krylon Crystal clear is my fave spray urethane, and the one I use to spray images before gluing so the ink doesn't run. I have also used it on quickie projects to protect the image, and it doesn't seem to react with the glue, tho I haven't put it on a totally glue covered image. good luck kathy

actually, there is a way to do it...... I got all comfortable in bed, fluffed up my pillow, was warm and began to think about your situation you can imbed the tiles, pieces, whatever is going onto the little terra cotta pots, by the method first used in ancient times.. have sanded grout all ready to smear on the pots, then add the pieces for the pot and there you have an ancient "memory jar"... I saw one a really long time ago and it just popped back into my head, thinking of the fastest way to have a project done in a short time.. do a google 'image' search and type in 'mosaic memory jars'.. you should find the one I saw a long time ago... now, I feel better and am headed back to bed....lol g'nite

I'm really sorry for your trouble. Unfortunately fixing any grout issue is time consuming. Today's commonly available grouts (Custom Polyblend, Mapei Keracolor, TEC AccuColor are actually really good quality products. It is not the grout's fault, it is bad application practice. You might be able to clean off the efflorescence with an acid wash. I'd try using Miracle's Heavy-Duty Acidic Cleaner. If you choose to do so, please carefully read their instructions and follow them. Always wear protective gear. You can definitely try to regrout, but if you just fix the bad spots they will stick out like a sore thumb. Color and texture will not match and you will see the patches. It would make sense to plan on redoing the entire area. I hope it is not too large. If it has been grouted recently and if the grout has been overwatered you might get lucky and it cleans out relatively easily. Either way the old grout will have to come out, the more the better. (Not too much if there is a floor heat system under the tiles.) If you're not comfortable using power tools (that can easily do more damage than good) a utility knife will do. Hold the knife with both hands. Do small sections at a time. Start from the middle of the grout line, as you get deeper, work your way out to the edges. When you get to the tile edge keep the blade at a 90° angle, scrape slowly and very carefully because those edges will chip easily. Always scrape away (direction) from the tile corners as those are the most sensitive. It is a good idea to vacuum regularly so you always have a clear view of the "work area". Once the grout line is clean you can grout. I hope you can find out the brand and the color of the original grout (it should be easy if you picked it). Just like with the acid, grouts have instructions too. Each brand has its own unique mixing ratio. Calculate how many fluid ounces of water they specify per one lb. of powder. If you do a small section only a 1 lb. mix should be plenty. A kitchen scale and a precise measuring cup are needed. Always follow the mixing, wait and 2nd mix times. Once the grout is in, wait for it to firm up, in your case (small area) you can you can wait longer than specified. While waiting, you can clean off the excess grout of the tiles without touching the grout line. Once the grout is firm enough (poke it with the tip of the utility knife's blade to determine) wipe it off very-very gently with an almost dry sponge. It helps to cut the sponge in half, it makes it easier to wring it out. Wiping also gives the grout surface's final texture, so make sure it is nice and smooth. If it doesn't work out the first time and the joints are still not completely filled, scrape it out and start again until you get it right. As I said it is tedious... Good luck!