Thank you all for your comments. I do have a "master" setting on the main duct leading from the furnace that has a summer and a winter setting - this makes some difference - and there is a return air vent upstairs as well as on the first floor. The energy audit representative discouraged me from completely closing some air vents (like on the first floor). He said the system was designed for air flow through all ducts. Two zones/separate a/c units would be optimal but not sure I want to put that kind of money into solving the problem. But the heat pumps in my development seems to starting to fail so, when mines goes and has to be replaced, I will investigate potential solutions with two zones. At this point, for the bedrooms, I'll go with good insulated drapes that I will keep closed in the summer. For the window above the door, I finally found someone knowledgeable about shades (at my local Lowe's), He showed me a double cellular shade that will be included in a 40% off sale in February. A motorized shade will be in the $250 range plus installation. I used Lowe's for all the windows in this house and my last one and been very satisfied. The only issue now is that the motorized mechanism has batteries housed in a unit in the shade header. This will be 16' above the floor, so replacing batteries is going to entail my handyman coming over (I'm 70 and don't do ladders!) with at least a 12' ladder when this is needed. Thanks again for all the good thoughts.

Re: painting, just remember this is not a room it is your exterior. Whatever color you paint it should go on your other exterior (non brick not trim) surfaces unless you close it in and screen/wall it. Just for fun, I really love this where steps go all the way around instead of railings. My deck is like this, I love it. It would look great in brick like this, with the brick pillar as well. Also like these, although any work like this seems like a great opportunity to face the stairs to the street as has been mentioned : ^^ no double columns for you (too fancy) but I love the brick walls and stair railings ^^Forget the style of the beams but the brick pillars at base of stair with white/cream railing returning to simple white posts would be nice What not to do: bulky pillars are all wrong for the house^^ ^^awesome with simple railing

Be sure to pick plants that will stay within scale of the planting area (primary issue with the current plantings). Many bigleaf hydrangeas like Nikko or ES get huge here in the PNW (6-8' tall and wide) and a need to prune them to keep size in check will limit the flowering. Also afternoon sun exposure in that location is likely to be far too strong and result in daily wilting. You might want to look into some of the more compact or dwarf forms of Hydrangea paniculata, which can take full sun and can be pruned to size (if necessary) without affecting any flowering potential. Even if only viewed from indoors during our rainy season, I would still want to see something evergreen in that bed....otherwise you will just have bare dirt for a good 4-6 months and that means weeds :-) We are not limited in the variety of smaller evergreen plants available in this area so I would visit a local nursery to see what's on offer that you might like - euphorbias, candytuft, hebes, dwarf abelia or pieris. Even a groundcover or a carex or two.

^^^ Just because it is done does not mean it is advised to do so. Virtually every Japanese maple specialty nursery will say the same thing to get the best results and a healthy tree: morning sun and afternoon shade or all day dappled shade. Mr. Maple: "Location is something that should be considered. Nearly all Japanese maples can handle growing in the shade or getting morning sun and afternoon shade. For planting trees in the sun it is important to make sure you are getting a selection that can handle full sun in your area." Davidsan's Japanese Maples: "The ideal siting for all JMs is morning sun and afternoon shade or else all day filtered sun. A general rule is that to have the brightest colors, the tree will need at least some direct sunshine on the leaves. Virtually all JMs will sunburn a bit mid-summer if it is really hot, even in part shade." Metro Maples: "Japanese maples are understory trees – they are happiest growing with some protection from a canopy of branches from larger trees overhead. Sun in the winter and spring is fine, but once temperatures get into the mid-nineties, most varieties will need at least dappled shade from midday until evening. Sun requirements and tolerances vary, depending on the cultivar, but generally speaking the red-leaved varieties will be more sensitive than the green-leaved varieties." Mendocino Maples: "Keep in mind when you place your tree into the landscape that morning sun and afternoon shade will suit most maples best. Wind and hot sun can wipe a small tree out in no time, regardless of the cultivar. Leaves will show signs of stress with burning on the tips. Sometimes the roots will become sun baked and the stress will show up in the leaves as if there has been too much sun or wind. Maples are thin-barked and can be sun scalded during the first year or two after transplanting. This injury can set the trees growth back considerably. Most maple species are naturally under story plants, but as gardeners we have forced them into the open landscape." Pacific Coast Maples: "It is recommended that you plant your maple in a place that does not receive direct sunlight after 12 noon, especially if your summers have temperatures reaching above 100 degrees more than five days each year." There are other very attractive small trees that will handle a full sun situation in KC far better than any Japanese maple will. Save that for a more protected location.