I live in Columbus, OH and I am growing a tomatillo plant I started from seed. I am only growing one because I have had too many fruit in the past with two plants. However, after reading the conflicting available information on tomatillo pollination, I am concerned that I will not have fruit set due to the apparent poor or complete lack of self-pollination. So, I would rather be safe than sorry. I cannot find seedlings at any of the local nurseries. So, if anyone is growing tomatillos in the Columbus, OH area, I would like to take a cutting or two if possible. I am starting two more seeds, but it will probably be late in the season before I began to get flowers. I can trade some fresh cut dill or cilantro and soon jalapenos! So, if you can help me out, drop me a pm. Thanks!

AWSOME!!! thanks so much!!! Karen

Unfortunately, I don't have a way to take pictures (ancient cell phone, no camera). BUT I have noticed today that the plants that were darker in leaf colour have got a stiff spike of what I think must pass for its flowers growing up out of the very top of several of the plants -- I don't remember peppers ever doing that. I'm thinking they might not be peppers at all but weeds? I planted another set of 6 just hot peppers in a container and they have started sprouting (only 6 and only where I put the seeds :). Is it safe to say I can pull out those plants with the funky flower shoot and try again in their place some bells?

Some seeds do not like direct seeding right in the soil. Nor do seeds first in soil like drying out. Start to sprout, then die. Steady moisture but not pooling wet. Too much water they rot. Why it is mentioned controlled seeding indoors works best and gets a much better germination rate. A bit cool but not a total loss. you could cover the location with something as simple as a plastic bag or even a couple layers of wet paper towel or newspaper. (add something to hold it down) rocks or soil on the edges. In cold climates they self seed all over if fruit falls in the Fall then freezes...the Spring thaw they sit in their rotten mess that keeps them wet... I must have a dozen or more left behind fruit in that part of the garden and usually get a few returns every year. Not nearly the amount of seed left behind germinates like inside controlled seeding. Anytime i direct seed in early Spring with cooler temps, I seed again a week apart or every few days) for 3-6 weeks depending on the plant. Heavy rain storms for days or no rain can cause problems. Early peas can rot too wet, salad seeds can completely wash out of the beds. (i cover them with a slat frame or a boards.) I would add a few more seeds to that spot, then cover. A zip-lock may give you a greenhouse effect and help warm the soil. One of those clamshell domes from the grocery that cherry toms come in...poke a few holes...and watch for sprouting. Many use the gallon water jugs with the bottom cut off as a mini greenhouse to get an early start. Just take the top cap off so the seedlings don't bake after they sprout. Best to have insurances and back-ups. You can snip out the ones you don't want later. Expect only 50% direct seeding. If all my peas come up after 5-6 weeks of sowing, that's fine, more peas for me. And sowing over that length of time i have them ready for harvest over a longer period of time, in succession. Usually one sowing is lost to something like birds, field mice, heavy rains...