French drain across center of sloped yard to help with mud/drainage?
Elana
5 years ago
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Elana
5 years agoapple_pie_order
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Back yard drainage
Comments (3)First off you need to figure out where the water is supposed to go. The first thing we did was re do the gutters on the back part of our house so the down spouts did not empty into the yard but off to the sides where the water was supposed to flow towards the front. We went with much bigger gutters and double down spouts to carry the larger volume of water vs multiple smaller down spouts emptying into the back yard. That one thing made a huge improvement, but in our case did not solve the problem. So, from looking at the subdivision plans and consulting the City, the water was supposed to flow from the back towards the front. No water is allowed to flow towards any adjoining property. HOA required detailed plans be submitted and no dirt brought in. To create better drainage, we had to remove dirt. It looked like the builder never did the final grade work, only the initial building grade work. Our house is 11 years old and we are the second owners. Our research indicated most of the lots in our subdivision have similar issues. It took a while but we eventually got it figured out and fixed. We hired an engineer firm to survey and plat the lot. From that we determined the high point in center of the backyard and went from there. We met with the city people again, and lots of various kinds of dirt movers, drainage experts, anyone we thought could help solve the problem of our swamp. We ended up re grading the grass areas of the back yard, both in the center and along the sides. Which got me new sod, more and bigger flower beds too! (a good thing) Nearly everyone we talked with about the project wanted to install drains from the back out towards the front with pop ups at the end, which is pretty standard in our area. Only 2 knew how to do it with out drains. Most of them had no idea how to create natural drainage! Our city has a code that water that enters a drainpipe and travels underground must exit at the street, cored through the curb. (another not so cheap expense) We absolutely did not want drains installed, french or other wise. We spend a lot of time outdoors and mosquitoes are a big issue. No matter how well the drains are installed there is always some water left standing and the pop ups always have water standing in them. Drains also get clogged and crate a mess someone has to go and clean up. (that someone would be me) We finally found someone who understood our concerns and knew how to create natural drainage! But it took a while. It was not cheap, but in our case the best solution. Now we have good natural drainage, & no drainpipes. There is one area out front on one side that could use some tweaking (due to neighbors drain off carried there as well) to work better and quicker, but other than that it is swampy only for a short while after heavy, sustained rains during the cool season. Before you do anything, research your situation, and find out any code restrictions you may have. It will save you money and time down the road. While you are working on that, I think the first thing which isn't all that expensive would be addressing the gutter down spouts. See if you can re direct the water that flows from your roof away from the back yard and foundation and towards the direction the water is supposed to be flowing out. Good Luck with your project! Here's photos of just the center portion of the yard which was always swampy before the grade work. before: summer 2009 when we moved in during grade work: summer 2010 after: winter 2012...See MoreFrench Drains vs Channel Drains?
Comments (47)We have evaluated the some of the benefits and construction issues of the pipe proposal. Now I would suggest advertaddy investigate the possibility of surface drainage. Some reasonably accurate elevation data will be needed to prove the viability. To do what I propose, he will need some materials; a few 2ft stakes, a nylon string line, and a string level. A string level is not a precision instrument and I am not fond of their use where accuracy is needed. But for short distances, and for this case particularly, I think the careful use of a string level will be sufficient. Rather than collect useful data over the whole of the project area, this preliminary study will be concentrated on only the critical grade points. In the graphic above I show the location of a string line that can be used to gather the information needed. Begin at point C by locating a space between fence boards that aligns with the back 6 inches of the patio. At the space between boards drive a wood screw about 1ft above ground level. Tie on a string line and stretch it out toward point B. Select a location for a stake at point "B such that the string passes over the patio near the back edge and also aligns with the jog in the house as shown. Attach the string level at the mid point between B and C. Stretch the string tight and tie to stake B with a loop. Adjust the string height at stake B so that the string level indicates the string is level. Install stakes at A and D. Extend string lines to the end stakes in a like manner with all lines at the same level. Measure the horizontal distance for each line segment. Begin at stake A. Measure the ground to string distance. Move 5 ft down the line toward B and take another measurement. Continue this process until you are near B. Begin anew at B and start the 5 ft intervals from there. Do the same at C and make a last measurement at D Record the measurements in this fashion A-? +5-? +10-? B-? +5 -? +10 -? +15 -? To correct the details of the base map, take measurements as shown in blue....See MoreSlopes, drains, driveways...oh my
Comments (16)Karin, I think the OP found offense with my post, not yours. I hesitated to make that reply since it held no value to him. I'm really speaking to those who might read this thread and avoid the mistakes in their future projects. If I was harsh, it was to make the point that the entire property should be considered before home construction begins. Actually, I liked the video slide show presentation. I let it run through the first time and I quickly saw a thumbnail of the material covered. The second time through I hit the pause button on each photo to get a more in-depth picture of the situation. Most of you don't live in a climate like North Carolina or Arkansas where I live. So you may not understand the significance of what was said. "Construction in our area does not include basements due to the water table being high." The same is generally true for Arkansas. Ground that is bone dry during part of the year can have a substantial underground spring in wet periods. And in warm climates wet basements or crawl spaces can result in dry rot or termites. There is not a single competent homebuilder in my area that will build a hole in the ground basement. The exception to this is a walk out basement on a lot where protective drainage can surround the home and be discharged to an area lower than the house foundation. This usually requires a down sloping lot of 8 to 12%. In the upper south, a walk out basement cuts the energy costs for heating and cooling on a per foot basis. Per foot construction costs of the home are also often reduced. For this reason, down sloping lots typically sell for about 10 to 20% more than flat or up sloping lots. What I saw here seemed to be a miss-match of house to lot. On placing the garage / driveway on the high side of the lot ... Here in Arkansas, and I suspect in North Carolina, the top 18 inches of soil never develops the level of compaction of deeper soil that has not been disturbed for millions of years. Thus below 18", you will usually find soil to have a greater load bearing capacity more suitable to garage slabs. Put the garage on the high side with a cut to hard soil, and the step-up to house finished floor gives the needed height above ground for the crawl space on the lower side of the lot. Do the reverse and you must either do an expensive compacted fill for the garage slab or make a substantial excavation to create a crawl space, one that is well below natural grade (not good). So for the house presented, there is the neighbor's water flowing to the foundation where the crawl space is at a much lower grade than the outside grade. Drive through subdivisions here and for lots with more than a 1 foot side slope, it will be the rare exception to see a garage on the low side of the lot. It is much cheaper to anticipate and prevent drainage problems than it is to fix drainage post construction. And it's much cheaper to build walls to avoid the slopes that homeowners grow to hate if done before or with foundation construction. It's a big mistake to begin construction without a detailed grading and drainage plan done by someone that knows what he/she is doing....See MoreNeed Help for my Unusually Downsloped Front Yard-slopes into house
Comments (12)I am unclear as to your question. Are you looking for general ways to turn it into garden space? Is water an issue? This is an entryway designed by Michele Derviss, a San Francisco area designer. The house is just visible in the upper right side of the photo, and the main entry is the middle of the left side opposite the stairs. If water is an issue, you could make the path that parallels the front of the house permeable with a drain under it that diverts water away from the front of the house by channeling it over toward the side. Here are couple of other ones from the same designer: Notice on this next one the center drain in the patio and how the patio slopes toward the drain:...See MoreElana
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ElanaOriginal Author