Slopes, drains, driveways...oh my
eaton72
12 years ago
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inkognito
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Pre-Slope, Slope, Drains, Membranes....I'm confused.
Comments (12)Much depends on the reason for the crack, and if the crack is active or if it's old and has stabilized. ie, no more movement. If the crack is active, it's an "all bets off" type of scenario. There's no sense in tiling over an actively moving slab. I'd need to know why it's moving. Expansive clay underneath? Water issues? Poorly compacted subsoil that has settled and thus the slab has sunken in? There are myriad reasons. Not all cracks are problematic. Large expanses of concrete can show shrinkage cracks. They are simply a part of the curing process. Shrinkage cracks will never move, they really aren't an issue. Some structural cracks are done. They've moved. They've settled. They've stabilized. They'll never move again. So not all structural cracks are an issue. It's simply actively moving cracks that you need to be wary of. SInce you've already made patch repairs to the slab, I'm guessing that the existing cracks are not active. Were they active I'd have recommended digging out the broken concrete. excavating down, filling and compacting a new base, then repouring a new slab. For your case with the cracks being inactive, I would put a crack isolation membrane down. That'll serve two purposes: 1) It'll isolate the cracked slab from your mud bed. 2) It can act as a moisture barrier, preventing moisture in the earth below the slab from wicking up through the slab and into your new mud bed. A crack isolation membrane I use is Nobel CIS. You can then put your mud base on top of the CI membrane and work up from there. I'd recommend Hydroban with that. Hydroban is a water proof barrier but not a vapor barrier, so it'll work well with the CIS which is a waterproof and vaporproof barrier. The good news? Sort of? If you use Nobel CIS (or use an equivalent product) over the entire bathroom floor slab, then you can put the sloped mud (or preformed shower tray) over the shower portion of the floor and then simply tile over the CIS on the remainder of the floor. Do understand it's not the only way. There are other products you can use. Does that make sense?...See MoreHelp with pre-slope removal and drain
Comments (13)Thanks for taking the time to find that link enduring. I think that I'm leaning towards the mud bed vs the SLC + kerdi pan. The "tinny" sound of the kerdi pan had me worried (my wife is picky about things like that) lol. The article you linked was a good read and it pushes me further toward the mud pan route. I finally got all of the wonderboard hung today so I will have to make a final decision in the morning when these beers wear off :-) Unfortunately, I messed up hand cutting the kerdi curb so I will have to make a trip to the store in the morning for the materials to do a traditional 2x4 curb. Above: the curb lines up fine on the top plane...just like the 2x4 template I made Below: Unfortunately, i guess I cut the curb at a pretty severe angle...guess this is why I don't do this for a living ;-) I was going to try to cut a wedge or fill in the gap with the dry-pack or something but since this will essentially be load bearing (shower glass door) I feel like that isn't a good option. I figure I will just grab a couple of the curb perfect kits...it seems like the "for dummies" version of shower building so hopefully I cant mess that up...I am so tired of going to the tile store lol....See MoreInfinity Tile Drain - how to get the right slope
Comments (11)I just installed a roll-in shower with a built-in trench drain at the point where the floor and the shower floor meet. Mine was all prefab, in a solid surface shower pan. But because I was installing this pan, I wanted a floor drain as a safety back-up.. My contractor, who uses the Schluter system regularly and has taken their class, simply went to the tile store where he buys his Schluter products and talked with the counter man there. They decided to use the Schluter premade foam forms for sloping a shower floor and the rest of the Kerdi waterproofing system with it. My contractor simply bought a shower floor sloping system that was a square. It is the same width and length as my shorter wall, the one across from the room door. Then, to get the floor tile to meet up well with the hall floor height, they did another piece of foam that is a ramp, with the high end at the point where the other shower pan foam sloping floor ended. He cut it to the length he needed to get to the door. The foam shower slope was set in place on the new subfloor The shower pan was lowered 3/4" by installing the subfloor under it differently. Instead of laying the plywood on top of the floor joists, he measured carefully and cut a section of plywood to fit between each pair of joists. This left the edge of the floor joist lumber exposed between each section of plywood sub floor, when seen from above. Then the shower pan is set on the floor joist/subfloor structure, without the added height of the plywood. I believe that this was the only height adjustment we needed for installing our shower pan even with the new tile floor, which was installed on top of the Kerdi....See MoreFrench drain across center of sloped yard to help with mud/drainage?
Comments (49)I started a thread about something else here on Houzz and thought I might return to this one to provide an update/conclusion, in case anyone else comes here with the same problem. I tried to call a knowledgeable drainage company that was recommended to me. From my description over the phone they told me that I live over an underground spring and nothing could be done. They would not even come out to look. I carried on with my plumber's suggestion of redirecting the water to the front yard. This was a failure, because it looked terrible and we actually had a neighbor ring our bell late at night telling us we had a burst water main. Here is what ultimately solved the problem. First, our new sump pump has an electronic control box that let us more precisely set the discharge level, so the pump is running less often without the water rising to unsafe levels. Second, we removed that deck in the backyard (which I wanted to do, water issues notwithstanding) and replaced it with a ground-level paver patio. That means there is more grass and less mud in my yard, so that alone makes it less muddy. Finally, I had my regular landscaper hook the backyard discharge pipe to a dry well. At first this only worked "okay," but he is a very good landscaper and he came back out and made the dry well bigger, and now my yard is nice and dry. I can let the dog out after significant rain and her paws are barely dirty. We have had the enlarged dry well for about 3 months now and through some significant rains, and it seems like it is working better than we'd hoped. :)...See Morekarinl
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoeaton72
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agopinusresinosa
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agokarinl
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agopls8xx
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agofrankielynnsie
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoeaton72
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoadriennemb2
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agokarinl
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agopls8xx
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agorosiew
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agocyn427 (z. 7, N. VA)
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agocyn427 (z. 7, N. VA)
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoYardviser
12 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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eaton72Original Author