Good question! There are SO many things to think about, that really by the end sometimes I think many of us end up aware of so many details...way more than the average person, even your average contractor...etc. I just measured my pullouts. As cyycdm stated, my drawers are only 22" long, but DH installed them (we did most of the kitchen DIY), and he placed them further back (than you see in her photo). They are full extension, so you can still access every square inch, but being a bit further back allows for extra stuffing overflow of bags, etc on shelves! LOL My frameless doors don't completely clear the sides of the cabinet frame, so the carpenter had to supply 1" bumpers for the side where the door is attached, so the drawer can clear the door, I'm sure you need the same thing, only in framed, you will need those bumpers on both sides, so a loss of 2" there. My slides only take up 1/4", so there is a total of 1 1/2" wasted space, my pullouts are 15 1/2" wide for an 18" pantry. Believe it or not these had to be built 3 times before they fit...no wonder my kitchen company went bankrupt (the day my new granite was to be installed, BTW) I would question why so much space needs to be lost, that seems wasteful to me.

I take it you have face frame cabinets from what you describe. I've been planning on doing something similar to a cabinet with double doors and a piece of the frame in between. Here's what I'm planning to do. The center strip in mine is screwed in with 4 pocket screws, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. Use a flash light and try and see what type of head it has before you get started. Get a peice of 3/4" square stock cut it a couple inches less than the height of the opening. Glue and screw it to the side of that center peice so that it's flush with the front. Predrill is a must, countersink is optional but nice. Leave a gap at the top and bottom. Next close the door on the side where you attached the 3/4" piece. Then predrill and screw but don't glue it in. You just want to get the holes in, then remove the screws to the door. Now you want to remove that center piece from the cabinet box. First you want to take a utility knife and score the finish on the top and bottom to keep it from chipping. Maybe the back too. Then unscrew it. If it doesn't come right out, use a thin bladed saw to cut the top and bottom. It might be glued. Might be a good idea here to sand the top and bottom to give you some extra clearance and seal the fresh wood on the top and bottom. Then attach that center piece to the door lining it up with the holes you made previously. Now that cabinet pretty much looks like it did before except when you open the door the center piece comes with it and you have full access. For the rest, read these instructions for making pull out shelves for your cabinets.

No, it won't work. That new one only turns, does not have a pull/push action, so the valve bodies in the wall are different. On the more positive side, you can find replacement internal parts for the current valve, clean the valve body and lube and install the new parts. It should work a lot easier afterwards.

Depends on what need a lot more info than above.