Why do you feel that it’s too wide??? Do you need room to place something else??? Aren’t you planning to frame around the door?

Mine is deep to but it's oriented so its flush on the inside but protrudes (if you will) on the outside side. If that's the case, it will have framing or stucco around it on the outside so it too SHOULD look flush. Ask your contractor.

once you sheet rock the frame and the trim you wouldn’t be able to see it. How much depth of the door is protruding from the frame of the house?

Awesome door, easy solution. Furr out the rest of that wall so the door system is flush. Or at least furr out above the door

Are these panaromic doors? Does not look like but please confirm.

It has to be that deep to fit tracks for 3 full-sized doors so that they stack. You can send it back, but what do you suppose the options are to replace it with anything thinner? If you want to stack three 2-inch thick doors, you'll need more than 6 inches of thickness. Physics.

what tatts said. and what sprinkles said. once you get your drywall and trim, it should be better. or you can bring out the wall to be even w/the door.

or just do a regular depth slider.

As Mies said, the devil is in the details.

A typical 2 panel sliding glass door jamb dimension (depth of frame) is 6 9/16 for a 2x6 stud wall. For a 3 panel sliding door, the jamb dimension is usually about 3" deeper (9 9/16"). So, for a 2x6 stud wall, you would need to make the wall 3" thicker. Adding non-structural thickness is called "furring".

These dimensions would be shown on the manufacturer's installation details; you should always look at those details before ordering a window or glass door so you can put the necessary information on the plan. The detail below is typical.

The difficult issue may be where you stop furring out the wall.

Did you not understand that the door has "stacking panels" when open? Each panel is approximately 2" deep. Three panels X 2" = 6" approximately.

You could have picked a simple sliding glass door instead of a stacking glass door. Who picked this door?

As RES illustrates, above, furr out the wall to match the depth of the door and it will look invisible...or at least compatible.

The devil is indeed in the details.

If this door was specified in the door schedule on the plans, the wall thickness should have been shown to accommodate it. It seems to me it's an issue to take back to your designer/architect to resolve.

As for returning the door to the supplier, I don't think you have that option available to you because you've installed it.

You are asking us what to do about a design detail instead of the designer or the builder so is this a DIY project?

I have a question. Is the whole door sticking out or is it just that side?