I used it last year for rose midge. It worked.

“If I only have to spray my rose one time ...”

???

”I believe they recommend treatment in the fall”

Who they?

The US Environmental Agency's document is my source, Rifis. Most, if not all of this should be listed on the directions, etc., on the bottle on the label as I stated above. Sorry if I didn't make that more clear.

Additional Directions:
Use this product as part of an overall tree and shrub health care program before problems start (preferably in the fall). (However,) MERIT 1.47% Insecticide Plus Fertilizer can be applied anytime except when the soil is waterlogged or frozen. These conditions inhibit the movement of the product down into the root zone. During prolonged dry periods, saturate the soil around the tree or shrub well with water the night before making an application.

EPA document

Sounds like nasty stuff.

What are the issues you hope to solve with this product? I think the advantage of the shorter lived products is that they can be timed so they aren't toxic during flowering when the bees forage.

Thank you for all your responses. It does sounds like nasty stuff. I guess I will stick with my neem oil and Conserve. I was reading on another rose thread someone was asking about this product and I got curious. I am glad I asked before making a big mistake. Thank you!!

Yes, it's pretty strong stuff. In my area everyone uses this in the spring to save their ash trees. We have emerald ash borer problem here. You could see dead ash trees everywhere. People can't afford to cut them down. So everyone is trying to save their trees. I wish there is a organic way to kill midge, but there is none at this moment. Do you have midge? Neem oil won't work on midge though.

I know summers. That's why I was wondering what the issues were.

I do have very bad thrips issue here in Oklahoma.

I use this product (a systemic) on palms and agaves to protect them from the voracious rhino beetles in this part of Tx. I don‘t use any chemicals on flowering plants or roses. Thrips and midge are bad here at times- I would like to combat those critters, but I hate to use anything that is toxic to bees, beneficial insects and four small dogs.

I have the same question, how effective will this product be on roses? I used it on my crepe myrtles and pencil hollies to control severe issues of aphids and white scales and I received good results, after all other treatments failed.

I use Bayer's 2 in 1 at my suburb garden for midge control. Last spring I tried to start an organic rose garden in the country. It didn't go far with that idea, midge showed up in no time. While I was cleaning the garage I found Bayer Advanced 12 Month Tree and Shrub Protect and Feed that the previous property owner left behind. So I used that. JB was a problem over there through out the summer and fall. To my surprise there were a lot of beautiful tiny tree frogs on roses (about 250 roses), and potted rose trees (75). I have never seen a tree frog before, I even found them on potted rose trees located on the 2nd floor deck, they sure can climb. I don't think they were looking for bugs on roses........maybe mosquitoes......

I know many people on this forum get antsy when you mention chemicals, but it seems to me like it might be worth a shot. I have an issue with chili thrips (a major issue) And it comes down to either spraying or having no roses. I spray with spinosad. It’s organic, but as I always like to say, so is cyanide. I have to spray biweekly or so. I really hate it. If I could just do it once and get rid of those suckers, I certainly would, so I wouldn’t judge you for doing it.

I had to resort to this for my gardenia that was covered in whiteflies when we moved in. Most of the leaves were black. I tried all the home remedies but finally just had to bite the bullet and apply it. The bees and butterflies didn't seem interested in the gardenia anyway. It really worked.

I have never used it on roses.

Do the bees have to come in contact with the product or does it poison the pollen the bees are collecting?

It is a contact poison at the least. I'm not sure how this particular chemical works, but the neonictinoids are absorbed by the plant and exuded by the pollen, but you probably already know that. : (

I believe that it is a systemic insecticide since it is absorbed and applied through the roots. The roots then carry it up to the rest of the plant. The bugs feed on the plant which contains the poison and then die.

Does anyone know if this 12 month Bayer product controls/kills root nematodes. If it does it would be a boon to warm zone, sandy soil gardeners who will not be obliged to grow roses on fortuniana rootstocks, but also own root or any other rootstock for that matter, opening up a wider choice of roses available for them.

Moses

I have been spraying Bayer Complete Insect Control for years for the hated rose midge fly, my absolutely worst and hardest pest to deal with. Aphids, mites, rose slugs, thrips, and Japanese beetles are a cinch to fight by comparison. The chemical in the 12 month Bayer product is the same as in the Bayer Complete Insect Spray, only much more concentrated to last 12 months.

I have posted my rose midge fly regimen in the past on the Roses Forum. It gets to be a drudge like no other. Every 10 days to 2 weeks from spring to fall. I only spray the growing tips down to about 4-6", and completely stop spraying that stem once the flower buds forming at the tip are the size of edible peas. The midge females leave those growing tips alone to continue growing and flower, seeking maggot friendly younger growing tips.

Putting granules down once a year can make more sense: no spray drift every spray session; no finding MISSED, infested shoots, that were accidentally missed, overlooked from the last spray session which midge flies inevitably found, uncanny how they do, and makes me think, "all this spraying, and STILL the midge gets the last word in!" ; and lastly, having to walk into my wide rose bed to spray those young shoots, especially those hidden ones and just emerging basal shoots, getting stabbed and jabbed all season long, is eliminated.

Moses

Studies have shown for midge that this ingredient (imidacloprid) is best applied early in spring before emergence so one can use a lesser concentration that should dissipate before flowering. It is a neo-nictinoid which causes bees to lose their proprioception among other things so they basically forget where to forage. Once the roses leaf out Cyfluthrin is a better choice and is best sprayed. Most of the midge will be killed while they emerge and very early in the season. While I agree it would be nice for those living with nematodes to have more rose choices, it doesn't seem that onerous to get them OR or on fortuniana rootstock.

neo-nictinoids: effects on bees

There isn’t anything out there for root knot nematodes. The soil fumigants that were moderately effective are now banned for their health hazards.

Encouraging fungal hyphae that trap and digest nematodes are the best treatment, which is why lots of organic matter is always recommended. Fungally dominant soils will help control nematode populations. :-)

My understanding was that the root nematodes move easily the sandy soil so if you really increase the organic matter it will help discourage them because the environmen isn't ideal. I hadn't heard that it was the fungi in the OM. That makes sense though.