What to do with pink roses in Fall! Help!
Dillybeansown (6b in the Ozarks)
5 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRelated Discussions
WaterFall Roses/ Niagara Falls Rose???
Comments (8)Thank you very much for your help, Karl. I will send you an email... Here are the other pictures: Utigard Fall (rose named after a norway waterfall - the third highest in the world) http://www.daiichi-engei.co.jp/images/goods/0707WAR1.jpg http://www.daiichi-engei.co.jp/images/subimg/0707WAR1sub.jpg Angel Fall (Venezuela waterfall) http://www.daiichi-engei.co.jp/images/goods/0707WAR2.jpg http://www.daiichi-engei.co.jp/images/subimg/0707WAR2sub.jpg Yosemite Fall (USA waterfall) http://www.daiichi-engei.co.jp/images/goods/0707WAR4.jpg http://www.daiichi-engei.co.jp/images/subimg/0707WAR4sub.jpg...See MoreDo you prune roses in the Fall?
Comments (16)Do you mean "tea" or "hybrid tea" roses? There is a difference. And they have very different pruning needs. In general, if they are nice bushy plants with fuller, old rose looking blooms they are probably "tea" roses. If they are more upright and less bushy in growth and the blooms look like the ones you buy at florist shops they are probably "hybrid teas". I don't know a great deal about the tea roses because they are winter tender and don't grow here but I believe that they don't particularly like to be pruned much at all. They need to build up a twiggy base to grow and bloom well. I'm sure someone with more knowledge about them will correct me if I'm wrong about that. Hybrid teas, on the other hand, thrive on pruning. Pruning them will always stimulate new growth and bloom. I don't prune until spring. I want as much cane length as I can get to hold nutrients over the winter for the rose to use when it breaks dormancy. And here that could be two or three times in the spring before it sticks, lol. So I want that extra stored energy. You can shorten anything that is really huge to a manageable height but don't cut it down low. I do stake and tie my taller roses for the winter so they won't whip in the winds. No matter how mild or severe your winters are you will still lose some cane length. If you cut them way back now by spring you'll only have stubs to work with. My worst rose season ever was the year I dutifully cut my roses down to 18 inches in the fall as I was told by someone "knowledgeable" in my society. The next spring I had roses about 2 or 3 inches tall after pruning and some of them never recovered right from it. Some lovely big bushes suddenly became one cane wonders. In the spring the rose itself will generally tell you how far it needs to be pruned to by the new growth it starts to put out. Observe and listen to your roses and they'll tell you how they like to grow and be pruned. I don't pick off leaves either. Spotted or not it doesn't make any difference. In more recent articles it's been noted that once the leaves are dead any spores on them will die also so picking them up or off the plant does not prevent further outbreaks. Fungal spores are just out there everywhere, in the soil and air, and if the conditions are right they grow no matter what you do unless you want to spray regularly. I leave the leaves on the bushes. They provide some wind and sun protection (yes, cane sunburn can happen in the winter too) for a time. Usually by spring most of them have come off on their own with out my having to get stabbed pulling them off. What's left is usually in the zones that end up getting pruned off so I don't have to pull them. Protects and saves time and energy, you can't beat that!...See MoreHELP! What do I do with these roses?
Comments (4)Tree roses should have hard pruning every year or they will get too top heavy like yours are. I would prune yours back to 18 inches down to the top of the straight stem. Just keep cutting below a leaf and the rose will bounce back during the summer. Every spring prune the rose back hard. Then if possible, use a couple of large eye screws about 18 inches apart on the house wall and tie the rose just under the top of the straight cane. Use a strong rope ( not a nylon type as they will cut the rose canes in the winds) and tie the rose so it sits straight up....See Morewhere do you buy roses in the fall?
Comments (20)You're hearing from a lot of folks about preferred winter protection methods for those of you who've planted roses in the fall and want to give them their best shot. In answer to the OP, I agree not to choose fall planting unless you're experienced enough to know what works for your zone and like a bit of a gamble. Spring is much safer and gives roses maximum time to establish before winter. For winter protection, one of the key factors is to wait until the ground is FROZEN to do the protection. That way the critters have already chosen their hiding holes and are not likely to choose your rose as the all-you-can eat bed and breakfast for the winter. They can chew through the side of an astonishing number of materials or burrow a little under the soil to get through barriers if they're still active, so don't count on keeping them out mechanically if you protect before the ground is frozen. My tip for winter protection is when the highs hover around 20 for a stretch of time. Nights below freezing with days above freezing can still be active bloom times for some roses, so I don't find they go dormant enough to protect until December or so. As Dingo says, I've moved from creating individual collars to fill with mulch - you can use empty leaf bags and pine needles or OAK leaves (that do not mush up in moisture like other leaves) to protect particularly fussy roses. I found that was way too much work however, and I get as much benefit from just providing a wind break next to the roses. You want to leave the tops open for air circulation to prevent mildew and mold wrecking the roses, coincidentally one of many problems with the "rose cones" that get sold these days. Snow is your friend and ice isn't a particular problem except for breaking canes if it gets too heavy. You can also do nothing and learn about rose protection in your zone. The two David Austins are pretty reliably hardy in your zones and should be fine. Julia is more of a traditional HT and mine likes zone 6 temperatures but wouldn't be hardy much below that. Edith Schurr in my experience is the least hardy of the bunch and she's died once or twice on me in zone 5. So the latter two would appreciate the protection the most. If you're in WV as I guess from your user name, you do have to watch moisture problems being on the east coast. In your case, you might choose a little less dramatic protection than I might in a dryer climate. Definitely leave room for air circulation. Don't worry or second guess yourself if some or all of them don't make it. Life is about a learning process and you'll be able to share "I told you so" stories with us if you do something unconventional and it works for you. Every yard and rose is different. Cynthia...See Moremustbnuts zone 9 sunset 9
5 years agoDillybeansown (6b in the Ozarks)
5 years agoDillybeansown (6b in the Ozarks)
5 years agoDillybeansown (6b in the Ozarks)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoHalloBlondie (zone5a) Ontario, Canada
5 years agoK S 7b Little Rock (formerly of Seattle)
5 years agoSheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
5 years agonoseometer...(7A, SZ10, Albuquerque)
5 years agoNHBabs z4b-5a NH
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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rob333 (zone 7b)