1/8" inch is the standard recommended gap by the APA for OSB unless the panel manufacturer recommends a different gap. However, there appear to be sheathing clips on your roof, which can work with a larger gap and are used to strengthen the roof when panel edges are unsupported, i.e., do not land on the roofing structure. Some jurisdictions may require these clips; they are a good idea in any case. You might want to check that the gap doesn't exceed the maximum for the clips being used and that the clips are correctly spaced. If you have a proper framing inspection in your jurisdiction, that's something the inspector should be knowledgeable about.

Zip System is also a good indication of a circus show. Fine Homebuilding has rated the Zip System "good". And it's a favourite, with special detailing, for the energy saving sticklers at Green Building Advisor. They're probably going to nail the siding right on the OSB with no airspace. I can hear the siding contractor already: "We're required to do that by the city." AS for the vent forest, it's probably true that it's not against Code to do it that way. Which is not the same thing as it's required.

Table 402.1.2 from IECC 2015 to current is best prescriptive guideline for cost effective energy efficiency. I doubt using weaker local amendments is good strategy. Some energy efficiency experts feel that R49 is good minimum for ceilings in ALL climates and would agree, if the ceiling is traditional vented attic where thick layers of insulation are easy to apply and affordable (loose fill). Some high performance projects in cold climates approach R100 for ceiling. These are international code minimum prescriptive numbers and it's easy to use other compliance paths to demonstrate equal total performance through other balancing improvements. Renovations of vaulted ceilings and insulative sheathing above the roof deck can make sense to go with weaker values. Spray foam applied to bottom of roof decks usually have substantial thermal bridging through rafters or truss chords, often more than the vented attics that prescriptions are based on so I don't think they deserve much leeway. Martin Holladay has the classic article on this common code violation. Efficient homes heating with mini-splits don't need heads in every room, but will need their doors open during hot or cold weather, a deal breaker for many. Then there is David's point about resale but I think good implementation could help tamp down this possible sentiment. Haven't built ductless yet but open to it if owners are. The efficiency one gets with Mitsubishi's smallest unit is unbelievable. One head replaced a whole house furnace in my personal small home, granted winter design temps are stretching it. Energy Star is for all homes. Homeowners or owner builders are eligible but may have a steeper learning curve to get the right details. Always involve a rater early, preferably with feedback during the design stage. Cpartist, sorry for your trouble. With everything you have had to put up with, it's not surprising they flubbed an important technical detail of your build. I think people who value efficiency have to do extra research to ensure they are getting the right feedback on their design and selections. The architect or builder should have the right knowledge and experience in your goals and I think the best projects are collaborative from the beginning. Most build teams valuing efficiency still include HERS raters (Energy Star) and mechanical engineers specializing in HVAC for services like Manual J, D, and S. Third party diagnostics, commissioning, and verification usually help ensure a good investment in home performance certifications like Energy Star.

If you have a sample board of the colors you're considering, please post a picture of it so people don't have to look up the options in order to comment. Also, it would help if we could see a closer up picture of the brick as the siding needs to go with the roof and the brick. Are you open to painting the shutters or are they not going to change?