To clarify the above quotation, nothotsuga was responding to someone who had said ""Darjeelingensis" developing green adult foliage liable to be C. himalaica." In conclusion about these nomenclature issues, is it safe to assume that all Himalayan/SW Asian Cupressus _are_ weepy, and therefore anything not weeping, and/or resembling Cupressus lusitanica...is in fact C. lusitanica or another imposter? And that these Himalayan plants are either very tender z9 (Nikkie's) or slightly hardier (see other post)...but not hardy enough to withstand 7F undamaged as the plant I have in the post above? FWIW people have said Cupressus X ovensii should be less hardy than C. X leylandii. However after this cold winter, my C. X ovensii looks just as good as my leylands, if not better. (and the C. X ovensii has also been completely disease free) So I don't think C. lusitanica makes X ovensii hugely more tender than C. macrocarpa of leylandii. Both are from rather mild areas and thus the Nootka parent must contribute most of the hardiness. One more thing: I just read the wiki article about Leyland cypress. I never realized the cross had been made in both ways, with the Cupressus macrocarpa as either seed parent ('Leighton Green') or pollen parent ('Haggerston Grey'). Which is the common clone in the US? This post was edited by davidrt28 on Thu, Mar 13, 14 at 20:49

I received four plumerias last spring (in Minnesota) and planted them in pots and kept them inside in front a sunny East window until temperatures rose outside. Then I put them on the on the outside South patio. They leafed out nicely. When it started getting cold, I brought them and put them in my bedroom which faces south. I placed them there in the sun and added a small grow light which I left on 12 hours a day plus they received the sun on sunny days. I watered them well once a week. They have grown a lot and are full of leaves. They did not go dormant and I never had any bugs nor root rot. I am planning to put them back on the south patio in mid-June when all danger of frost is gone. Since they never had a chance to go dormant, I was wondering if that would hurt them? And, I was wondering when I should start fertilizing them? Should I start now (early April) or wait until I move them outside? The are very healthy, large, and beautiful. Many thanks for any help/answers anyone can give me.

Apparently not all experts agree that cloning trees from cuttings is either incredibly difficult or that own root apple trees are undesirable. In fact, quite the opposite. Link: http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/tree/apple.htm Which says: Q: My father-in-law insists he used to start new apple trees by cutting off a branch and sticking it in the ground. We doubted his story until we were looking at our childrenÂs question-and-answer book. It says sour apples come from trees started from seeds and sweet apples come from trees started from limbs. Now we are very curious. Do you have any information on starting new trees from limbs? Is there any truth to the sweet/sour story? (Brookings, S.D.) A: Your father-in-law has a "Smith" sense of humor, just like my dad. Apple trees can be propagated from softwood cuttings or seed. Trees rooted from stems are clones (asexual propagation). No one can root a branch from a tree that produces sour apples if they want sweet apples! Seedling stock (sexual propagation) will produce offspring that are widely variable in fruit quality and taste. Some will be sweet, some tart, some large and some small. In general, commercially available apples trees are usually bud or cleft grafted to take advantage of a hardy rootstock. Go to my Web site on home propagation techniques at www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/landscap/h1257w.htm for more information. You may then want to explore our fruit tree publication at www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/hortcrop/h327w.htm. Near the end of the publication is an explanation of the various budding and grafting techniques. Another link: http://www.orangepippin.com/articles/own-roots.aspx "Fruit trees on their own roots Growing Apple Trees on their Own Roots By Hugh F. Ermen" Here is a link that might be useful: Questions on Apples

Hi Moriati Many thanks for your response, and for looking up the supplier you used. I will give them a ring and see what they have to offer. I'm encouraged to hear that you found your trial was sucessful, I have grown willow before with good results, but was not growing it for harvesting. I shall be making this my research project over the next few months (nice to focus on going home from the US!), I have only made a couple of sweeps on the net, but it is communication with actual people that I feel is always mose useful! One thing I am interested to know, how thick were the rods when you harvested them? I was looking at a website yesterday that said to harvest 2 years after stooling, but it didn't give any indication of what size they were. I'm sure I read somewhere a few years ago that new hybrid willows would grow as thick as your wrist in one year, but whether or not they are available to buy I don't know. Regards Claire