Cyn427, after posting this and discussing with DH, we decided on Bocci as well. The fixture is not good at all as a primary light source but looks spectacular. If you are in NYC, the American Eagle store has 52 of these in their Times Square location on the entry floor. Here are pictures of more: http://www.bocci.ca/#/14-series/ Here is an apartment that used Bocci over the dining table - looks gorgeous! My living/dining/kitchen floor plan is very similar to this one. http://www.pulltabdesign.com/#/1261 Here is a link that might be useful: Bocci website

kirkhall - that was a fridge lowes brought out - 33.5" wide - it hangs out the doorway to the kitchen from the living room by at least an inch. Although larger is usually bigger in fridges - in this case, it's only a 2 bedroom one bath duplex - they don't need a huge fridge. I asked for 30" wide, give or take 1.5" - and that's what they brought out - just way too large. (what I ordered never came in - so I could only pick from their in stock merchandise). Each time they have brought out a fridge that is 30" wide, the door is not reversible. I bought this french door model at sears outlet yesterday - just need to get it there. it's 30" wide, the door swing won't be an issue... and it was the same price at the sears outlet as the one lowes had charged me for. lowes picked up that fridge this afternoon. this way I'll be able to build a cabinet surround for the fridge too.

After selling your set on CL check out the one in your area for MCM pieces selling for a song. This MCM baby is listed in my area for $200. You have to look at pieces with a good eye for how they can work in a new space. Imagine this with really cool chairs in your space. Most people photograph their items in the garage or basement, or with their current funishings which do not do a piece justice. I think they have the bases reversed though and they should be facing curved outward: With placemats you won't be looking at your dinner guest's feet and legs.

Welcome Andrew! Planning is always first. The more planning you do up front before you touch a thing in your kitchen, the less stress you'll have, the better able you will be to stay on-budget, and the fewer change orders you'll need (figure anything done with a change order is going to cost you at least 1.5 times what it would have cost you to have it planned for during the planning stage.) Planning should also take up the lion's share of your project timeline. It's not uncommon for the planning phase to take a year or longer while the installation phase only takes 6 to 8 weeks. Some of the things to think about during planning Note: Many of these can occur simultaneously. Decide what you can afford/are willing to spend Determine what you need -- what you actually need, not just want. Determine what you want (and prioritize your wants so you can eliminate/add as budget allows) -- this is your "dream list". Come up with a "technical" design -- not just the layout of the cabinets, but also lighting, electrical, etc. (I call a design "technical" when you're working on getting a functional layout of cabinets, etc., not choosing colors or materials -- those are "aesthetic" design elements.) Appliances -- plan for what you will need to replace them in the future. E.g., plan for a refrigerator space at least 37" wide x 72" tall -- those are the dimensions for the most common refrigerators today. It can be larger, e.g., 43" for 42" wide refrigerator, but don't make it any smaller. Choose most elements -- flooring, cabinets, counters, fixtures, etc. Tentatively choose your backsplash -- but know that it may very well change once you've installed everything. Light, etc., can make a difference in what it will look like...even orientation (backsplash is vertical, counters are horizontal) can make a difference. Regarding floors... -- If you plan to install your floors after the cabinets are installed be sure that the flooring under the cabinets is the same height as the finished floors will be. You don't want to end up trapping your appliances (or not being able to get them in) b/c the finished floors are higher than the flooring under the cabinets -- If you don't install the cabinets over the finished floor, then be sure the finished flooring at least goes partway under locations such as refrigerators, DWs, and ranges. The flooring under these appliances can be seen at least several inches into their alcoves. -- Some people try to cut costs by not putting flooring under the cabinets. However, it doesn't always save money -- it depends on installation. Sometimes installation can be higher b/c of more cuts and more care needed when working around cabinets than if the floors were put down first. -- As someone else mentioned, floating floors cannot be installed under cabinets, so keep in mind the items above. Paint...we primed the walls and finished the ceiling (primer and final coats) b/f the cabinets were installed. The installers were able to write on the walls during installation, which I think helped them. We put on the final coats of paint on the walls after the cabinets and counters were installed. If you're new to this, then I strongly recommend finding a good Kitchen Designer to work with -- not a cabinet salesperson acting like a KD, but a true KD. Even DIYers usually need help at least the first time around. There are other things, but I think I touched on the primary ones. Others will contribute with their ideas as well.