It should be likely you have the correct capacity and 4 wire 220v cable to allow hookup. Go look at the breaker in your fuse box. If it says 50 you're OK for power amount. You'll need to read the installation manuals for several units to see if anything needs to be done to get a new unit to fit. Miele, Bosch and Frigidaire have around 17 levels of heat adjustment. Others have 10 or so. AJMadison has the manuals listed for each different model.

Hurray for you. The difference in response and the ease of cleanup are major. . . . for some people life-changing positives.

We switched from gas to induction 1 1/2 years ago. You should already have the appropriate electrical and there is really nothing new to learn. Yes, you do need magnetic pans, which we already had.

" would mean new pans and learning a new method-- "

Not necessarily. Many of your pots and pans will likely work just fine on an induction stove (you can check with a magnet), and the benefits of induction over radiant electric make is worthwhile. There's very little to learn with respect to new technique - you just have to get used to not using residual heat (it's more like cooking on gas that way - when you turn it off, it's off).

I did have to replace all my pots and pans, but I got new ones at Ikea, which were very inexpensive (and were recommended here). As for learning the new method, I'd agree with Susie - you just have to get used to things heating up quickly. I also placed a very large silicone mat over mine, to protect against breakage and scratches, and I cook right on top of it. It's like magic.

Re. Changing to. Induction/permit--

if we had to upgrade the electrical --with new breaker--that would mean a permit from the county--we are in unencorporated Sarasota County in FL...

my husband hasn't looked at our box to see if cooktop is on separate breaker

the people who did the kitchen remodel did have to upgrade the electrical and rewire because of age of house and what they did...

got return call from the appliance repair guy we have used--

they would not replace the glass countertop and he said that since it was 8 yrs old that the elements under the glass could be close to shelf-life--

so he recommended replacing the unit just to avoid future issues

Guess I will check w/Home Depot or Lowe's

called Ferguson's--they have a 36" GE model for 970+ installation and hauling away the broken one...

Maybe I will look at Induction models when we go to either one--

but the stores in OUR part of FL are not very sophisticated w/what they have on floor

and the Ferguson's in Sarasota is not that big--mainly bathroom products and lighting from last time we were there as I remember...

We have gas cooktop in our. TX house so am used to cooking with both types--

our FL neighborhood has NO natural gas line--total electric--because of age it was developed--late 70s...

Just looked at breaker box--no 50Amp breaker. for island where cooktop is installed...

More important than the breaker is the conductor size in the cable vs. the current specification of the new cooktop. If suitable, then the breaker can be changed. If not, try a different cooktop or plan to replace the cable.

Perhaps even more important is the size of the cutout in the counter versus the required cutout for any candidate induction cooktop. There are people with suitable tools for cutting stone in place and capturing most (!) of the dust. Adding stone, however, is not routinely performed.

Yes, I would be shopping for a cooktop that will fit the existing opening to avoid having to deal with the granite.` First order of business would be crawling into the cabinet underneath and getting a measurement of the cutout.

Or pulling the cooktop out and measuring...if it is non-operational.

The AJMadison website is great because you can filter search results by the cutout dimensions. You can also filter by amps.

Yes I agree shopping by dimensions is likely the best option really

i have the manual for it w/cutout dimensions

i don't think my husband is going to want to pull this unit out to measure cutout

my appliance repair guy wont

sears charges 90$ for service call and will apply if we buy from them

Or I could call our electrician to get price if they will come out

We have had induction for 8+ years now. -- I grew up on gas and wanted something similar 8 years ago, but then learned about induction on Kitchenweb and have never looked back. We just renovated a condo and moved and got another induction range.

If you are in the Sarasota area, I would check into Famous Tates up in Tampa (yes, I know, sounds weird). They are wonderful to work with -- we are 2 hours north, and drove down and got all of the appliances for the condo from them. Easy to work with, great selection, excellent prices.

https://www.famoustate.com/

Many of the 4-hob induction tops do not require 50 amps. 40 is fine, and probably what you have with a radiant cook top.

The house we rented while we built had an electric cooktop. I had used a gas range for 15 years and just HATED cleaning the grates and the other parts and pieces. I knew since our new house was just a twinkle in my eye that I would have an induction cooktop. So I've used all three types in the last 2 years.

I would rate the clean up of the gas cooktop the worst but the electric cooktop was pretty bad, too. It seemed every time I cooked I ended up with burned residue on the glass that I had to use special cooktop cleaner to get it to come off. (It was a Weiman product and did work well.) The cooktop was pretty old and had knobs so those had to be pulled off to clean under if I had cooked something that spattered.

In our new house I have a 36" Kitchen Aid induction cooktop and LOVE LOVE it. Cooking on it is comparable to gas in that it is very very responsive. (The electric cooktop was so slow to respond to changes, ugh.) And cleaning is a breeze. I use soapy water on a cloth in my right hand, follow with a quick wipe down with a dry cloth and no spots, no smears, just shiny clean.

My induction cooktop did not require a 50 amp circuit.

Not all inductions require a 50 Amp but don't know if would have any more luck finding right size---have to find someone to pull the unit I think. My husband has gone under there twice and gotten different dimensions--it is awkward with the box in the way and reaching upward. He doesn't want to try moving it--

Sears won't come out unless it is a repair--same with the other appliance company we talked to today...

will call some other service people tomorrow...

This unit requires very big cutout--most I check to replace it are smaller cutouts...

Width is 35.5 to 35 7/8" max. And Depth (front to back) 20 3/8 to 20 3/4 max

found a Kitchenaide unit that says it takes 35.5 X 20.5 which is the first dimension my husband came up with...

I was just inspired to check -- I have an electric range with an induction stove top, and it's 40A.

Most units you will not have an issue with a 40 AMP circuit

it is more about the cutout dimension

I appreciate the fact that people like induction

I understand the allure--a glass cooktop has issues

appreciate people following the thread...

You may find that Electrolux 36-inch induction cooktops and their brands Frigidaire and Kenmore are all large and require large cutouts. Your existing Kenmore Elite cutout may actually match the E'lux induction requirements. Below is a table I generated a few years ago when I was replacing a failed induction cooktop. Feel free to bring it up to date. The goal is that the existing cutout at least equal that specified for the new cooktop and the new cooktop overall size exceed the existing cutout sufficiently to provide good support.

Frigidaire and Electrolux are the only induction cooktops that I could find that are large enough for the existing opening.

But you have another option--You could use a trim ring which would allow you the most choices of brands.

Microtrim Cooktop Trim Rings

The Microtrim reference looked really interesting but then I found the fine print saying: "Note: Cooktop Trim Kits are cosmetic only and are not designed to support the weight of the cooktop. Some countertop modifications may be necessary for support." Oh well.

Any guesses I might make here depend for their utility on the details of the cabinet and countertop, but I think a trim ring could be used when supplemented by some metal supports that take the cooktop load and bring it either to the countertop or to the cabinet sides.

The guy I thought was going to come out to take out the cracked top apparently has renigged and won't respond to my texts...Googled him and Yelp has only negative reviews

Seems to be the policy at stores not to take a unit back if it does not fit existing cutout--

but to require buyer to make adjustments to the countertop/cabinetry...

This is the saga w/o end apparently...

we found a KitchenAid on line that seemed like best fit--

still have broken one installed...

ordering from Home Dept--they said their installer would take out broken unit and check new one for size before installing--so we could refuse delivery if it would not fit...

had to wait more than 10 days for item to ship and be delivered

when it came the two guys could not take out the old/broken unit nor actually install the new one...

now my husband is having a severe argument with someone at Home Depot--the second one today--about who is going to take out the old and install the new

apparently they only anticipate dropping off electric cooktops you order from Home Depot...

this is one big F-u mess...

It is possible for one strong person to do a swap, but it is much easier for two. Do you have a friendly neighbor who can spend an hour helping or two short visits?

1. Shut off power; confirm induction unit's power is off with live power sensor tool.
2. With underneath cabinet cleared out (ahead of time), disconnect electrical line under counter in cabinet
3. Disconnect any underneath mounted hold-down scheme
4. One person underneath pushes up unit (bench press) while person above slides two boards under unit so unit rests on boards that are resting on countertop (have boards ready ahead of time). Board setting can be a weaker spousal task before helper arrives.
5. Two persons outside cabinet lift up old induction unit and place somewhere (can be done by one but there is higher risk to unit and/or countertop).
6. New unit is installed in reverse order of above steps, assuming it fits, and in conformance to its included directions. (These should be read before hand.) Proper adherence to electrical connection rules related to using connection means approved for their purpose is mandatory. Adherence to correct electrical cable conductor sizing and breaker sizing is mandatory. Electrical steps and adaptation of the existing configuration should be gone over ahead of taking up the helper's time. Installation may require two separate helper visits if the new unit's hold downs are incompatible with the old unit's and time has to be taken to bond or otherwise connect a different hold-down scheme for the new cooktop.

I would suppose that employer/ insurance/ regulation/ safety/ liability concerns forbid the delivery guys from uninstalling old appliances.

Common sense should tell you that it would have been smart to remove the old unit before ordering a new one. So you could be sure the new one fit.

Anyway, if delivery guys were licensed electricians, they wouldn't be delivery guys. Nor would delivery guys have a big tool kit. They also generally have other deliveries to make and a schedule to keep. The Boss would be asking them why it took two guys an hour and thirty nine minutes to deliver one cooktop. While the Boss was fielding angry customers who took off work to accept a delivery and the delivery was two hours overdue and the truck was no where in sight.

When you must have full service, you shop from a full service appliance retailer. Home Depot is more like DIY HQ.

@ci_lantro---

I think I did post that we contacted several different parties--including the electrical company we have used to do two bathroom remodels and other general electrical work--and no one would come out until I finally got a referral from the company who did the kitchen remodel for the people we bought from...

the installers came today--took maybe 15-20 min to install

there was some tightness in that one area that was little narrow but the box fit good

One of the installers said that it does happen that someone will not pay attention to dimensions of cutout and they go to install a new/different model cooktop and it won't work with the dimensions of the cutout space...

they say they can raise the vent hood/light that was installed much lower than normal by previous owners--so likely will have them come up to do that next week--

have asked several different repair people and they all were like "that's a sheet metal job" or "that's an HVAC job"

they didn't seem to think it would be that difficult at all--that the outside vent should just slide up over the section at the ceiling--

and I think my custom cutting board for my old cooktop will fit this one just as well

was afraid this one might be taller than the first but seems to sit on counter and not touch cooktop...