Shilpsb - Overall I like them (Garrison French Connection Provence), I like the natural color and the low sheen...but there are some areas where it does seem like there's a haze although it blends into the different planks. I probably am the only one that can tell! I haven't had problems yet with staining, I just wipe up water as soon as I see it and then clean with the Woca spray whenever I spill anything. I have done the refresher a couple times but have not done the re-oiling... is that a product you can buy? For the rugs, I have put a couple World Market small 2'x3" with the rug mat underneath... they were inexpensive and I just wanted to get something until I can do more decorating - they are too small but they do the trick. What do they say could happen to the floors with rubber backing? I know they say no blue tape, etc... I've been very conscientious with these floors, but they do have a lot of variance in color and look rustic so I'm just going with it. I would rather be eco-friendly anyway. I heard about some at Plastica which are pvc and can wiped clean...http://plasticastore.com/shop/home/moroccan-pattern-mat/

The amount of vinegar and water you would use with a spray bottle on a dust mop won't "break down the finish". As someone who has spent considerable time removing finishes, it might be easy if it did. Granted, soaking some shellac in vinegar might dull it a bit....but spritzing a dust mop with a bit of the solution to keep the dust down and combat any streaks plain water might leave is a good thing! The thing I object to with Bona is that people wash with it, saturate the finish....and that is never good for wood! You don't slosh a bucket of vinegar water on your floors, put a little spritzed on your dust mop will be lots better than Bona, Orange goo, Murphey's stuff or anything else you can imagine....but for perhaps mineral spirits....and nota's not a good option for weekly cleaning https://howtohardwoodfloors.com/vinegar-clean-hardwood-floors.html

Oil based soap (like Murphy's) is a super no-no. You then added a polish. Again another no-no. You need to STRIP (chemically and mechanically) the floors of the soap and the polish. Rubbing Alcohol works wonders. Try a test patch. Work in a well ventilated area. Get on hands and knees with the alcohol and a putty knife as your scraper. You will do this for the entire floor. And hopefully you will never need to refinish these floors. Those two products you have applied have drastically reduced your ability to do a full sand and refinish or even a buff and coat later in life.

The heavy duty stainless steel cleaner (vegetable or whale or petroleum based doesn't make any difference) will penetrate any polyurethane. Polyurethane finishes are NOT water proof (nor oil proof). They are moisture RESISTANT but they will EVENTUALLY push past the finish to reach the wood = dark stain. The heavy oil probably sat too long AND it took ++ effort to remove it (like many swipes of soap to remove all the oil from the floor). The duration of time the liquid sits on the finish will predict how much stain you can expect. The COLOUR of the floor will also dictate how much you will see. I don't like to see wood floors babied. They are floors. Of course you want to be mindful of what you are doing, but they are supposed to take the abuse. That's what they do. The finish is what keeps the wood healthy so that it can be refinished in the future. The wire brushing helped the stain appear. The texture means there is more surface area for the oil to grab hold of as well as more valleys to fill. They are notorious for grabbing dirt and grime and liquids and oils. More surface area on the wood means more surface area to try to clean.