I'am sure you don't want to hear this....but that doesn't look like an island made from an old dresser but rather a table that moves around. That base and the legs look very out of place with the rest of the piece, the placement of the handles on the drawers is odd and the top looks too too big for the base. How about something like the table linked below? Linda C Here is a link that might be useful: Old table

My kitchen island is an old table with a barn wood top. I love it! I found it at an antique festival. It is one of the most functional pieces in my home and also one of my favorite finds. The barn wood top is old and stained, the back side is entirely covered with old tin ceiling tiles, and the front is 2 shelves of open storage. I can pull hot items out of the stove and put them them right on top of it and never worry! I can't imagine where I stored everything this piece holds for me before I bought it! By the way, I have honey colored maple cabinets and a matching hutch and this piece is green with a dark barn wood top. The fact that it doesn't match makes it even better as far as I am concerned! Your table has great potential. I have a pretty good idea of what you might be going forand the storage your table offers will be great. Go for it- it will be worth it!!!

One of the features of a very modern cabinet design is its severity. That means strictness, geometry, and form sometimes trump functionality. That's part of the reason my kitchen isn't more "modern." We had a custom guy build ours and we did a lot of screwy things in configuring our drawers but together we found ways to camouflage it to some extent. Adjacent drawer sets have same drawer fronts. In two spots I wanted a bin at bottom, but the cabs adjacent to bins do not have drawers so the variation is not obvious; one of these has a shorter upper because of the pull-out board, one does not. No one would notice without looking for it because they're not adjacent. Here's the wall where the drawers match exactly. Cabs are "Shaker" and only slightly modern in feel. Ignore the stuff on the countertops if you can. Each of the top drawers is shallow because of the pull-out above it. If you look very hard you will see that on the left-hand wall there is a set of 3 drawers that are all of a different size than any of the ones on the longer wall but the top one has same bottom edge as the top ones on the long wall, which homogenizes them. I will say that if I had it to do over, I'd have put an extra inch into these two shortened upper drawers (in photo) that got stinted because of my pull-out boards. Although I usually don't need the height for my flatware, I've found that things fly up and jam the drawer. I have one silver fork that is awaiting a trip to the doctor because I didn't realize I was bending it when I jammed the drawer. One idea: can you get a double-decker inner drawer within a cabinet or drawer, suspended from the top of inside of cab or riding over the contents of the drawer? I assume you have a custom cab maker but I see these things in catalogs also. And don't forget that you can use aftermarket roll-out shelves inside a cabinet. We put a regular cabinets below each of two drawers that flank our range. Inside the cabs we put roll-outs. This allows us to reconfigure the innerds by re-doing the shelves if we need to and the assymetry within the cabs does not affect the symmetry seen when cabs are closed. We used a nailed-on cleat to keep the roll-out shelf from kicking upward when extended. I have a stock pot in my lower roll-out. I like the roll-outs better than drawers for pots--I can see easier, find things quicker, and only need to open the cabinet door once and the roll-outs can both be extended nearly equally and 3/4 of my stuff is partly visible. If I had two or more drawers to open and shut and open again while searching for a pan or lid it would drive me nuts. But then, I have a lot of pans and I store them and their lids as densely as I can and there is no permanent spot for most of them. I don't have the luxury of multiple drawers with custom spots for each pot and the lids. Remember, it's okay to put some pots elsewhere, if they're still accessible. Stock pots can go into a basement, garage, or pantry. Unless you're cooking for a crowd frequently or you make a big recipe daily, you don't need to let the tail wag the dog. (I've shaken off the idea that when organizing, "like always goes with like." I've broken apart my knives--some are at bread & sandwich & cheese & sausage station by refrig; the chopping knives are in the slit by the chopping station. My utensils are adjacent to the area where they're used, not categorized as being "utensils" generically and dumped into a couple utensil drawers. Same with larder items--they are stored where they are used; coffee by beverage station; cereals near cereal bowls; snacks by beverage station; flour by baking; etc. ) I second the idea of having all the grain on your cabs and drawers run horizontally. This almost immediately homogenizes variations in a mod kitchen. There is a rule, there is discipline.

uh, I've had a copper sink/strainer for 15 years. mine still look brand new. I've used everything you can buy, cleaner-wise, and nothing has damaged the copper. Have you tried scrubbing all of the gunk off of it? Letting anything sit for 3 years without maintenance is going to look like crap. you have to that every few weeks. get a stiff brush and some comet or bar keepers friend and scrub. If it doesn't clean up, then that strainer part is not real copper. and if that actual colored portion has never oxidized, then that's not real copper either. you prob have a copper colored strainer that has corroded. copper does not. CopperSinksOnline carry them.