Is the gray the waterproofing? If so why is there none on the back wall where he is currently tiling? And why doesn't it go all the way up the Hardi Backer? I don't see the joints taped? Was the mfr screw pattern followed as I cannot see all the screws (or maybe I do)?

I just can't understand why you would mix systems?

Is the hardi board meant to be the waterproofing? We are currently having a shower replaced and are told it is the backer board, thinset then the tiles for the walls only. Been back and forth with them and he said that for the walls there is no other waterproofing!

I take all my tiling questions to this forum:

https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/

You can get good answers here too, but these guys are experts.

When Schluter offers a LIFETIME warranty for their system, done correctly, there should be zero reason to mix systems. Especially when it’s not even done correctly.

"hardi board meant to be the waterproofing?:"

Cement board is NOT waterproof period. The joints need to be taped with a non alkaline tape. Then the water proofing appplied over the entire board. What does he mean get on the ceiling? Ad far as water armour I see nowhere that this is anything other than a glass protectant not a topical waterproof system for a tiled shower.

People take a little info and run with it. Every waterproofing question its the same thing. Again waterproofing can be a simple plastic sheet or roofing felt behind cement/Hardi board. NOTHING else is needed and most likely your building codes will confirm this.

Your installer used a roll on waterproofing up above the shower head. It is fine it is out of the wet zone. Would I have just rolled it up to the ceiling? Of course and have zero idea why they didn't.

The problem with the Schluter system is it is complicated and involves a lot of steps that can all lead to failure. Schluter does not make thinnest which creates more issues as to which is acceptable and which isn't. The problem you have is the problem everywhere which is everyone mixing and matching these systems.

Cement board is not waterproof but it is NOT damaged if wet and that is why it is used. In a normal non steam shower nothing more then the Hardiboard and sheet/felt is needed. It is actually preferred if an installer doesnt know how to use and tested hs application of the Schluter set up.

Your pics are hard to read as if that is the shower stub out which looks low then it is fine as is. I cant see the pan and have no idea what was done there.

Your shower is waterproofed it is a normal shower. He should have went to the ceiling but maybe you aren't tiling to the ceiling and it will get painted? Back to the waterproofing police!

By the way Schluter was originally signed to go over sheetrock to simplify installations. If you already going with cement board there really is no reason to go through the expense and complication and possible failures of such a complicated system. KISS KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!

Wannabath - Totally agree, there is a lot of confusion/misinformation being presented concerning this water proofing. From any code I have read, they want some form of water proofing but it does not have to be applied to the face of the tile backerboard. What they want is something to protect the underlying wood frame structure from being exposed to water. To support the tile work, as you state, they only want a material(backerboard) to be used that will not deteriorate when exposed to water or support the growth of mold.

Schluter does now manufacture thin set mortars, both non-modified and modified. For those wanting the full "Lifetime Warranty" you must use their thin sets.

There is a distinct difference between what someone thinks and what code permits. I don't think anyone is disputing the benefits of a system such as Schluter. However, unless this level/type of water proofing is specifically specified then the contractor is in their full right to construct the shower as permitted by code.

I never saw the op state poly sheeting was used anywhere. The op stated a topical was used. My comment was I cannot see any joints taped or a proper screw pattern used. It did get a little convoluted as there is a second person asking slightly different questions on the op's post.

Again people commenting who have never done it. Try wetting the concrete board with a sponge, applying unmodified thinset to the wall and put the shluter membrane up nicely before it dries...its a pain..not easy. Rolling on something like red guard is as easy as painting a wall. I ended up with concrete burn from installing shluter on my walls and ill never do it again. So I can see why they mixed materials. The real question here is did they do a 24 hour water test to make sure the shower pan doesn't leak??

How many coats of RedGuard did you apply? Did you use a mil gauge?

Live wire your question has nothing to do with ops concern. Red guard is as easy as paint and I can read instructions. Thanks.

There are several acceptable methods for a proper shower installation. Some are personal preference and others job specific. Many valid comments made above. Unfortunately Houzz has become a mostly one sided waterproofing advisory often by non professionals. (My comment is NOT directed at anyone.) A point to consider. If you were to take the CTI ( Certified Tile Installer) test today you had better know how to properly install a barrier behind the cement board in a wet area. That is what the hands-on portion consists of.

Question - How long should a proper tile installation last.

Answer - The life of the structure.

My conclusion - Not going to fall for a lifetime warranty so a manufacturer can sell more product. Pros know which products are best for their specific project. Industry norm is 10 years. If a shower fails you will know well before then. Odds are very high it will be installation related not product.. If we could just get installers to read the instructions I feel 80% of problems would be avoided:)

Difficult part is to hire a Pro. This link will provide the questions to ask.

https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer

@jhmarie - FYI Several of the Pro's here have extensive knowledge and are also on The John Bridge forum.

Paint doesn't require a mil gauge to know how thick you are applying it. As in, multiple coats are required. How many did you apply? Criticizing others puts your methodology under the microscope.

Yes, the niche needs to be water proofed.

That niche is rot waiting to happen. I needs CBU, tape and thinset and waterproofing. It reminds me of some of the initial corners in my shower. I simply showed the contractors the waterproofing manufacturers installation instructions and told them that they were capable of doing it that way and to rip out what they had done wrong.

The GC has told me that they are not done yet. However, shouldn't waterproofing be done prior to any tile going into the niche? I don't see how they are going to fix this with tile already in it. Also, for it to be continuous waterproofing, can they remove tiles and add the waterproofing at this point to connect up with the other waterproofing, or is the shower needing to all be redone?

You ir should be done before any tiles set. No they really cannot remove tile and add wateroroofing effectively. Combining all the info you have given so far I would yes to a complete do over but with a real tile pro.

The shower shown above with the tile setter working looks good. The shower niche shown further down where you see the wood framing does not.

You do not need to use manufactured shower systems to build a shower (Wedi, Schluter, etc.). You can use old school mud or many of the tile backer boards (Wonder Board, HardiBacker, etc.).

The quality of your shower depends on workmanship not magic shower systems. Keep in mind that there are a lot of 60 year old showers that when removed to update there is little to no water damage.