Jue Shei: for the 1st picture, you are right that the whole plant is not pale, but only the upper leaves. I look at your 1st pic. three times, and it looks like iron deficiency (dark veins on pale leaves). See below excerpt: "Iron Deficiency: Caused by High soil pH and salinity. - High Phosphorus, Manganese, Calcium, Molybdenum or Zinc levels. - Soil low in organic matter & Insufficient drainage. Leaves become yellow or near white between their veins. Stunted growth." From Straw: For your 1st pic., it looks like high soil pH (wood ash has pH of 13), plus salinity or high salt (wood ash is very high salt). If you did NOT put wood ash in the pot, it can also be poor drainage. My rose in soaking wet clay has that problem during heavy rain. If water cannot drain fast from a pot, upper leaves can have iron deficiency (pale background with darker veins). If it's a high pH problem from topping with wood ash, then scrape off the topsoil When the soil inside the pot IS NOT changed every 2 years, then the soil becomes compact and water can't drain fast, roses will turn pale. My most dark-green roses are with NEW potting soii which is fluffy and has air for root growth. If your soil is more than 2-year-old in the pot, then change to NEW SOIL will help. Old soil in the pot for more than 2 years accumulate too much salt, then become compact so roots have zero air, so leaves turn pale. From the web: "An ideal soil contains 25 percent air, 25 percent water, 45 percent minerals and 5 percent organic matter."

Grace, this is not BS. I have BS on my medallion and Queen Elizabeth. First it is black spots but they are always accompanied by a yellow coloring around it. Then it will turn yellow and fall off. This stays like that. Still same leaves and then gone. I was very puzzle by this and this is what I think. I could be wrong but could be right. Due to heavy downpours of rain. Maybe it got bruise. And the bruise was repaired by the rose immunity...I don't know. I agreed with Perma n Posies, environment stress and it repaired itself. I can't find marks like that on Google or anything. I try to post a pic but Houzz won't let me. I found 2 leaves but it looks really healthy but deep inside is markings. You can't tell Bec the leave also became dark green. Jin I just saw that one leave in first pic . It is very dark green colour. It is still there. The pic that I just posted 5 hours ago.

" But is it ok to continue to add compost from vegetable matter? " Yes, as DanintheDirt said, compost is not fertilizer - it is primarily soil conditioner. The Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) is the ability of the soil to hold nutrients. Soils with low CEC (sandy soils) leach nutrients quickly into the water table. Plants have to grab the nutrients before they are gone. High CEC soils (with more clay) can hold on to the nutrients longer. However with more capacity, they may have a lower % of that capacity filled. They can take higher doses of fertilizer less frequently, while the low CEC soils need more diluted fertilizer more frequently. Adding compost increases the CEC of the soil without adding much in the way of actual nutrients. Which when you test will show that you have more capacity than you have nutrients. Which is why over the course of a year you need both - compost + organic NPK supplements. (Assuming you are growing organically - you could also use synthetic fertilizers with your compost.) I can also give you some alternative fertilizers to Blood Meal for supplying Nitrogen. Other animal fertilzers are: Fish Meal Feather Meal Bat or Seabird Guano Worm Castings (very weak Nitrogen source, but it does have some) Animal fertilizers have the advantage of working in any temperature. The disadvantage is that they can attract pets and rats. Vegetable fertilizers for Nitrogen are: Alfalfa Meal Soy Meal Cottonseed Meal Vegetable fertilizers need warm soil to break down, so they are summer feeding only. They are also much less concentrated than animal nitrogen sources so they need to be applied more often.

so in a 3 week period daniel ... you would soap it ... oil it.. and drench it??? or are you now recommended a 4th application??? we see one leaf cluster.. if it bothers you.. cut it off and walk away ... when the whole plant is a problem.. then react ... in 50 years of growing T ... i never treated them for anything.. ever... and i usually had so many Ts by august.. that i couldnt give them away ... and every single year i would wonder why i planted so many .. and i dont even like Ts.. i found the solution when i got rid of the wife who loved Ts.. and i stopped growing them ... lol .. and when i got those huge T worms.. i just flung them on the driveway.. and the birds flew away with before they barely hit the driveway ... you just shouldnt need to be a chemical warrior .. and i include natural remedies .... to be a success ... sure it wont all be pretty.. and you might lose some stuff.. but you learn ... and you will still end up with more than you need ... ken