Can drywall holes be repaired strong enough for a bookshelf anchor?
HU-426476751
5 years ago
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can drywall stay wet a really long time?
Comments (31)Hendricus, I'm not sure we'd be successful--probably somebody would get carried away. Also, whatever this is, it's a seep, not a stream. it's happening INSIDE somewhere. Brody, that's not a bad idea--but I just applied one of those "caulking" strips, and it still *looks* pretty well sealed. I'll remember it, though, when we get to the final "put it all back together" stage. No roof leaks, decker173; this is a second-floor apartment, and the water arrives after a shower, not after a rainstorm. I'm trying to get a hose that attaches to the tub spigot--but of course, if the valve is leaking, the hose won't help much. I don't know what other source of water to use, though--not sure how to get a hose to attach to the bathroom sink, and I can't get one long enough to reach around the apartment building, up to the second floor, and in to the bathroom. Well, maybe I could--but I'd need 2 floors worth of hose. I tried testing the assumption that this is splash water from the wall, that runs down to the tub, and then out and over the edge (bcs there's a tiny slant to the tub). So I caulked a dam at the edge of the tub. Water has built up there, but it's not THAT much, and the pathway down is still wet. I'm justing having a hard time believing that THAT much dampness can arrive on the wall below the tub from THAT source. I *finally* got DH to agree to take the escutcheon plate off the valve part of the fixture, to see if the valve is leaking. It turns out that, since there was no water or wetness or anything behind the cement board, he thought that meant it couldn't be the valve. So I'll try that. Once I said, "of course not; the cement board is impervious, no water CAN get behind it. But it can run down the FRONT of it, between the cement board and the Swanstone."...See MoreDry Wall Repair Question
Comments (15)Hi - I wanted to give you the latest update. I decided to go with the toggle bolt idea and mounted the bracket last night. The job started off badly but seemed to end fine (at least I think). First of all, a much larger hole needs to be drilled to get the spring loaded wings into the hole. I did so, but no without a lot of problem. My joint compound repair started to depress or push in a little bit and you could see that the edges around the repair were visible. Since the holes were already drilled, I figured I didn't have much to lose. So, I tightened up the toggles and there appears to be a very strong hold of the bracket. Don't know if it will stay that way once I attach the TP arms to the bracket, but I can tell you that the bracket seems stirty. So, after I was finished that I applied another coat of joint compound to fill in the depressions that were made while I was drilling. I will then reprime that small area and paint. I'm going to go with this and see what happens since I have nothing to lose (excpet maybe wasting a little time), but I was surprised that nothing pulled out as I tightened the toggle and the attachment appears secure. Thoughts?...See MoreShower glass strong enough to hold towel?
Comments (23)Lots of planning, I see. Your shower will be very nice. I like your tile choices a lot! Hanging a glass door on another panel of glass requires heavy glass. If you mounted your door on the tiled wall, you would rarely open it 90 degrees to get in and out of the shower. A shorter width towel bar on that wall wouldn't look as crowded as as a double towel bar. When you say "double" do you mean one in front of the other, or say a 24" long bar? I have 3/8" glass and and the self centering hinges still allow me to put that door at any position, so it doesn't get flung back 90 degrees. Hard to explain, but it takes a little effort to open a 3/8" glass door. There was a discussion not to long ago regarding glass door bumping into towel hooks/bars and people came up with some ingenious ideas. Some put rubber feet on the ends of the hook. No one could see it when the towel was on the hook. Or a small decorative waste basket that would stop the door from going the full 90 degrees. Do consider having a 1/2" hole cut into your shower glass where you can put a hook to hold the towel while in the shower. That way you only need to open the door a crack and grab the towel, close the door, and dry your bod in the heat of the shower. Tempered glass need to have any holes or cutouts made before the glass gets tempered. After the fact you need to use Command Hooks, which do the trick. You know, hmmm, can you make a mock towel bar out of cardboard and tape it to the wall, then tape a 28" piece of something to the tile edge to see just how far you can open a door before the two connect? I always have to do these visual things, if you are an engineer you can do it on paper much more easily. -Babka Here's a similar discussion...See MoreCan I safely cover drywall hole with a framed mirror w/frame hanger?
Comments (4)I'm not as worried about the hole in the drywall as I am about a heavy mirror being hung properly and securely for your own safety! First, let's assume you can't fix the hole now.... Does the mirror completely cover the hole? if not, I wouldn't bother continuing. If it does cover the hole, it should be hung on a stud. A large and heavy mirror should have two hanger rings (e.g., D-rings), placed on the back of the sides of the frame. Just using one hanger at the top of the frame could easily cause your frame to pull apart. Do some searching on-line for info about hanging a heavy mirror. Here's one example: Home Depot: How to hang a heavy mirror btw, a friend has a small hole in the drywall behind his refrigerator that was cut for access to some pipes. They wanted to leave the hole for future access, so I suggested he just cover it with a piece of wallpaper. It looks much nicer than a hole. :)...See MoreHU-426476751
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