Wall hung - they will sag. After talking extensively to UK plumbers and bathroom fitters who install wall hung all over the UK, they will not guarantee any work where the metal frame that hold the wall hung toilet is fixed to a wooden framed wall. IF it is in a corner, where there is less "give" they feel that is the best option, but unless these metal frames are fixed into either concrete walls or brick walls, there WILL be some give over time. They all say that if there is no brick or concrete wall option (as in my case - just stud walls) then standard back to the wall are best bet. Access difficult?? - no I do not think so. I have installed many of these in the UK and access is very easy to the cistern. It is all down to how the cistern is hid. With a bit of forethought it can all be made very accessible. All of the back to the wall toilets in the UK are SO cheap. Basic models start at 50 UK pounds - really cool ones start at around 150 uk pounds. I do not think I can even use them over in the US as they all have 4 inch soil/waste pipes. Are the USA waste pipes all 5 inch?

brutuses, my door is where your picture is taken from - the vanity is on the right side of the far wall, and the toilet is on the left side. The mirror above the vanity was pieced together from 2 (3?) pieces of furniture that we salvaged post-Katrina, and does not allow room for a wall sconce. We could put in our two sconces like your outside 2, or we could center them in the flanking walls. DH set the boxes a couple of hours ago, centered in the flanking walls. But because they are not flanking the vanity, 66" looked too low, especially with the 10' ceiling. I think DH set them at 72". Not ideal, but I think we can live with it. I might go back and see how they look if we placed them like yours - now's the time to change them. This site is a blessing and a curse - this is something I have never noticed before, but now that I know how and more importantly, why they should be at 66", I am going to fret over it until the decision is made!

A bathroom needs a GFCI receptacle that is easily accessible by the vanity, but any additional receptacles in the room are optional. I usually use only one GFCI receptacle circuit, but always make sure there is one wall receptacle on the circuit near the entry door (for a vacuum cleaner, etc.). Based on the current popularity of fancy commodes (with bidet, etc.) I may start putting a receptacle near the commode. The counter height GFCI receptacle on the vanity side wall meets the basic requirement for a bathroom. I would probably just move the double GFCI receptacle on the long wall down to standard height and leave it there. That might also be a good location for a heated towel bar. Where to put the sconce is a combination of esthetics and electrical requirements. Most fixtures can be located as close an an inch from a side wall, but might look funny that close. You also need to work around the placement of the medicine cabinet and the swing of its door. The attached picture will give you an idea of what you might need to consider with sconce and medicine cabinet placement. If you look closely you will see that the medicine cabinets are slightly off from the sink bowl center, since that is the only easy way to make them fit with the three sconce lights. The placement of the sink bowls is determined by the vanity (cannot be changed), but lining up with that sink centerline would have cut into the space needed for sconces on each side. The sconces could not be moved farther out because they got too close to the window on the left and the wall on the right. Bruce

@marketerme I find myself liking almost everything ^^^^. The ones with cupboards look more grounded IMO. The one thing you might run into as you get ideas for shelving on that back wall... I'm thinking if it were me, I'd put the drawer features about my shoulder level when sitting. The thing is, if the drawers are all the way on the ground, it might make the wall look shorter. IMO you don't want the wall to look shorter. If anything, you'd want it to look taller. So, I think a little leg showing would be good. Someone might want to disagree with me on this, though---I'm not certain. This has all got to look good on Zoom, correct? It maybe would help—to get an idea of the bookshelf, drawers, and wall size vs. you—to mock up that wall with shelves and a pinup of you seated in front. Move stuff around 'til it looks right. This is the kind of thing that's always trial and error for me. Although I like the look of your first photo, @marketerme, if it were me, I'd really struggle with books falling off. I would find it maddening! IME there needs to be a more solid divider between sections so books don't fall over. I would do whatever it takes for there to be strong verticals on the bookcase. Strong horizontals (even just a row of books) will make that wall look really squat. IMO A tall, slim, floor lamp will also send the eye upward. I think I would put one in the back left corner. On the ceiling I might put a row of little lights beamed at the upper half of the bookcase, so the eye goes upward. Again, feel free to correct me! I only ever do this by trial and error!