Set the tile so that they end a bit higher than the height of the tacks on a tackless strip. Then you install tackless strips around the tiled area with the correct spacing and attach the carpet like you would at a wall. If you are worried about the corners of your tile not being strong enough, they do make some metal transitions that only have about and 1/8" or less showing on top so they are barely noticable. You would still set the carpet as I described.

Wish I could... I am the GC and my wife has not picked tile yet... :) Floors need to go in so kitchen, trim and painting can be done... and not hold up our move in prior to Christmas. I will most likely wind up doing the tile, and I am meticulous to a fault. All doors in the tile rooms swing toward the tile side... so it sounds like the transition point is NOT the center of the JAMB... but the center of the door slab. So when the door is closed, you do not see both flooring materials from any one side of the door. Correct? I am seeing a lot of pictures with NO saddle or transition piece... wood butted right up to tile. Would I want the point where they meet to be tile right up against wood or a grout joint there?

Can you post a picture? Typically, metal transitions are not used at carpet to tile (I assume ceramic/porcelain or stone) junctions - unless the tile is broken or poorly fitted. If it is necessary, then lego9lego's advice is valid.

Usually the floor change is directly underneath the door so only that room shows when the door is closed. My previous house had marble thresholds the width of the jamb. That is a detail which ends up fading into the background as long as the choices aren't jarring and the install is neat. With dark flooring on both sides, I would be installing a darker threshold perhaps a solid surface material which could easily be trimmed on site to slide into place. Your choices may be limited as it would have been easier if the transition piece had been installed before the bathroom tile.