Pretty orchid! Looks to be some type of fungal/mold thing to me, but not too serious. I'd either remove the affected roots or douse with hydrogen peroxide or some other anti-fungus treatment (or both). Also, take it out to the plastic wrap, that won't help it to acclimate. If anything it would be detrimental by stopping airflow, which may be the reason for the fungus/mold in the first place. Good luck, Bob

Thanks for the excellent advice everyone. I had read somewhere about the seed mother being the the most likely parent to pass on the variegation, and was hoping to have the newer variegated plant be the "mother". But you mention the time it takes for seed to ripen and I realize that means a few things. It will likely be late winter or early spring before i have seed, if it is viable. And thats only if I disbud, and then only if both plants will flower at the same time, and thats if I like the flower type of my first plant. And of course the cross has to take and survive until maturity. And so on. So I think I have decided to make myself a drink (thankfully not on call tonight), maybe play some Marvin Gaye, and attempt to facilitate a little self-pollination in my newer plant. Just kidding. I suppose, given the timescales involved, if I am successful by this time next year I may be waiting on seeds from offspring crosses from that plant. Perhaps. I'm far too new to this to begin trying to create a certain type of plant in my opinion. That might lead to frustration. Instead I'd rather make a cross and see what interesting things pop up and then meddle with genetics from there. That being said, maybe it is better to purchase some seeds and do some learning on seeds and seedlings that i have not invested what will amount to a great deal of time and possibly emotion. I have really only seen plants for sale and only a few mentions of seeds for sale. Can anyone recommend a reputable place or internet site to buy some seeds? Thanks, I know this is now far off topic from the first post and I appreciate the time you have all taken to help me. Kerry

I brought them upstairs for for heat and I needed more light so that is why I am using the floresents bulbs, last year I had them downstairs where it was cooler, had lots of growth but never any flowers, so I thought maybe they needed alittle boost with fertilizer and more light. I will back off on the fertilizer and see if they respond, but when would I start the fertilizing so I can get flowers, anyone?

You always want to remove all the leaves from a fresh cutting so they don't draw all the moisture out of the body of the cutting. It's going to need that sap to grow roots. These are some useful things I've learned in rooting plumeria cuttings: 1. Root in the growing season. Spring is best but summer works, too. 2. Water the mother plumeria tree well the day before cutting. (If it's a cutting from someone else's tree, the healthier it is the more likely it is to root.) 3. Callus the cutting at least a week. In other words, let the cut end dry out and harden. (All leaves should be removed immediately after cutting.) 4. Use a clear container for rooting, then you can actually see those roots! 5. Coir and perlite seem to be the materials least likely to cause rot. 6. Put the cutting in shade outside. The clear container will create sunburn if not in shade. Water only once, when you put the cutting in the container. 8. Forget it exists for the next two months. Seriously, FORGET it! Don't touch it, don't move it, don't water it. (Rain won't hurt it in my experience, but tap water is another story.) Hopefully after 1-2 months the leaves will begin growing back and you'll know the rooting process has begun.