Ego, That looks great I cant believe how many plants you have been able to plant in that space. I love how the E. fortunei has happily taken over your stump. Your Japanese Maple and Montgomery Spruce with clematis in the far background is magnificent. I was glad to hear your gooseneck is in a pot I have been trying for eight years to eradicate mine. I stopped at a nursery while travelling this weekend and saw that there is now a pink variety, which considering it's aggressiveness in New England I was shocked to see. I redesigned my back garden this year with the sole focus on the leaf. So far what I have taken away from my little experiment is how much is added to the garden when light is captured in either a large or shiny leaf, it creates a bright spot where immediately the eye is drawn. I am also having fun with a large bed of sedum 'Atumn Joy' that hold water in the cups of it's leaves attracting humming and other small birds. I am also enjoying Melianthus major 'Purple Haze' for it's early morning display of dew on it's leaves. I have learned to date that in the future I will choose more insect resisted large leaved plants as there is nothing uglier than large shredded leaves, I have two varieties of rhubarb one curly leaved the other very large leaved and the large leaved has struggled with mites disfiguring the leaves while the curly leaf is pristine...go figure.

To be fair, you shouldn't expect to see the join lines on a slab door constructed from solid wood when it's first delivered to your home. (Which I'm assuming that your cabinets are newly installed.) A newly created slab door should be smooth single slab in appearance. Subsequently, you WILL see those join lines telegraph. It's unavoidable. It's the nature of using solid wood that contracts and expands with the waxing and waning of the humidity. Different pieces of wood expand and contract at different rates, leading to those join lines appearing between the boards. In extreme cases, the entire door can warp inches out of flatness. That's why solid wood slab doors are constructed with battens on the back. It prevents major warpage. It does NOT prevent the join lines from being seen over time though. And it's part of the reason that all cabinet companies require you to maintain the humidity in your home as part of their warranty coverage. If you don't use your AC in the summer or have a humidifier running in winter, you've just voided your warranty. And that is why the majority of people who want slab doors prefer to have them in veneer over solid wood. It presents a much more stable surface over time. It warps less. And you get the opportunity for some beautiful graining patterns that aren't "striped" because of the many different pieces of wood required for solid doors.

alku05 - Thanks for the pictures! I can see why you needed to do it "both ways" and it looks fine. And by the way - your floors are beautiful! sweeby - We definitely are dealing with #2 (an applied door panel) but the question is how it should line up with the door or drawer that it meets on the front side of the cabinet. Some of ours are flush with the door so that the panel and the door form a perfect 90 degree angle where they meet while others stop at the edge of the cabinet. I wish I could take a picture but we've stopped installing them for now until we figure out if we need to order something different so that they're all the same. If anyone else has any pictures to share - that would be great!

Thanks celerygirl, that was another option I had thought of as well but thought it may be too obvious! Finding a Color match would be the fun part since the windows are quite close to where the bed is. judd - I had considered velvet but never thought of doing them in another colour. If I went this route, do you suggest I integrate the blush elsewhere or let the curtains speak for themselves? Now to convince my hubby to consider this option. ;-)