Converting a fish pond to garden
5 years ago
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Garden pond fish
Comments (14)Luna, you page needs to be revised. That is if my memory serves me correctly - about the boyfriend I mean. Anyway the eye: i purchased a dozen plastic magnifying lenses on ebay because they were cheap. One is covering a yellow half marble. The seaweed piece was one of two heat (flame) deflector from inside a water heater. Please don't ask. ha ha ha I fixed the link to the widow. Robert...See MoreNew container water garden/fish pond
Comments (9)I wouldn't add goldfish, or any fish. I tried a small pond that was in the ground and the water got too hot for mosquitofish which can take warmer water than goldfish. Being completely above ground even in the shade I'd expect the water temp to be way too high. With the dark color and 50% in the sun the water might be too hot even for plants, or maybe some plants. I've been growing Canna and some kind of Umbrella Plant like Cyperus alternifolius and a nutsedge (purple I think) in soil in containers with no drainage, so standing water but normally below the soil level. That mimics how I keep marginal plants in a pond which grow best not submerged. The sun, heat and humidity are hard on these. These are all pretty much in the ground, but the further up out of the ground the least well they do. I've repotted plants that have been in the sun and the soil is much too hot for me to touch. I've been experimenting with different sun exposure. Canna barely survive full sun. Morning sun seems to be best, til 10 am. Enough sun to bloom, not too much to stunt them. So I don't really have any tips for what you're wanting. If you want a water feature I suggest you just do that. Then add plants for the cooler months, or if some make it thru the summer then great (let me know what). Maybe something like a pondless feature. 5 gal bucket with holes goes contains a small pump, kept up off the bottom by a brick. Then fill with rocks/stone around the bucket. At the very top you can add a more expensive rock for looks. Add water so it stays below the rocks. The fountain hits the rocks and sinks back down to the pump. Plants can be placed in the gravel/rocks either bare root or the whole pot with soil. But you have to make sure the water level stays up to at least say 6" from the top. A fountain might be hard on most plants which don't like to be covered in water. And you could get lime deposits on leaves. Because there's no standing water you don't have to deal with string algae or mosquito larva. I've had container ponds other places, NY, FL, CA, and none of that applies in Phoenix. I used to read gardening books and web sites and watch gardening TV shows, but don't any more...just doesn't apply to us....See MoreConcrete fish pond,other uses besides a fish pond?
Comments (3)Debbie, it could easily be a formal tropical water garden with its rectangular look. It would require a pump and some simple filtering, but that could be made to look formal. Many water plants have that tropical look, like taros (colocasias), and tropical water lilies are so beautiful. Submersible pumps don't cost much, and your first job could be to pump almost all the muddy water out and refill with fresh. Leave just enough water in for the fish. Then set up a skippy filter in a large fake old-fashioned looking flower pot and put it in. Then go all out with the tropical plants! These pics from the Singapore botanical garden. :) Mary...See Morewatering a garden from a fish pond
Comments (4)Hi again Lily, You have approximately 6,000 gal of water to use from the pond. If you have fish you only want to draw down about at most 1.5 ft. (25 x 23 x 1.5 x 7.481) equals 6,452 gal or you will be having fish for dinner. I believe you would utilize about 1,200 gal a week at full plant maturity. (58 x 38 x 0.5 gal/sf) which equal 1,100 gal/week. You have plenty of supply. The next issue is when the water pump would be run and who is going to run it. You would run it through a 1 " pvc mainline with filter to each person's plot with a gate or ball valve fitting at the end to be turned on manually at a certain time period each week or two times a week. People can automate from their own plot's manual valve fitting. You want to economize running the pump($$$) if everyone is paying for the pump and running it(this can be automated with a timer). The size of the pump would be based on the 600 gal every 2 or three day interval. If people need more have them fill a barrel at their plot and use additional water saved there. So if you need 600 gal and take 1 hour to irrigate, your flow rate would be 600 gal per hour or 10 gal per min. If you have to push the water uphill make sure your pump is rated for 120% of the vertical elevation in feet between pump and the highest bed. I don't believe this would be a very big and expensive electrical submersible pump. If electricity is not available a small generator can be use or the 12v battery system. More $$ or manpower and dedication. Hope my calcs are good. Someone double check me. thanks. Let us know how we did on the theory compared to what you actually did. JMHO GL Aloha....See More- 5 years ago
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