My vent is a rigid vent, not a telescoping one. It is 4" typical rigid duct work to the outside except for the flex aluminum stuff that is at the big box that I put in. I have never done any of this before, so I read and tried to figure it out as best I could. The box and flexible duct work I got online at an outfit called the Dryerbox. I linked it below. The box is put in upside down compared to their pictures because my vent goes into my basement and exits the side of the house. Be sure to calculate the duct run that is recommended by your dryer manufacturer. Each 90degree bend subtracts 5' of run you have available as recommended by the manufacturer. So you want to have the least amount of bends. I don't think the flex connection counts though, at least it doesn't for my dryer. You can get these flexable auger like brush for cleaning vents. They sell them at the website I linked below and at Lowes. I used it for my old dryer and it works. You are supposed to be able to run the brush using your drill to spin it, from your outside vent. When we cleaned ours it was beneficial to be able to get the brush right into the dryer itself, attaching a vacuum to pull out accumulated lint. There was plenty. Regarding the water, I think where ever you can reach it and get it turned off is the important thing. I plan on turning the water off between uses, now that I have the set in my living area. My old set is in the basement and I didn't give it a thought. This laundry project has taught me a lot about better management of my appliances. I installed Floodchek hoses on my basement set. http://www.floodchek.com/ I bought 2 sets and gave one set to my plumber. He thought they looked like high pressure hoses. He liked them. Regarding your pull out. Could you have a top and a bottom pull out, then a shelving area with door to hide and access the vent, electric, and water? Here is another drawing of my setup. It shows where the vent goes inside the wall and down to the basement. There will be a door on the shelving area where I can pull out the shelves to get to the vent exiting the dryer on the side. I bought a Miele set and there is the option for side venting. There is also my water connection on the right side that isn't shown on this drawing, but is seen in my picture. I also have and outlet near the front of this cabinet for an iron. The bottom area will be open for a laundry basket, though I will have shelving available if I want to use them. The bottom area is where my electric outlets for the W/D are. The one drawer shown will be one of those pull out ironing boards. I do very little ironing but thought it could be handy. My counter between the ironing drawer and the shelving above will not be exposed, instead hidden behind the door (door not indicated on this drawing) When the door is open there will be the vent box and water hoses visible I'm afraid. But it will be all accessible. Current design of my setup, showing vent that is inside the wall: Here is a link that might be useful: The Dryerbox online store.

I use the Zinnser waterproofing paint. No need to prime. Just do two coats. Of course, if you tint it a sunny yellow, it will likely take three or more coats to cover completely.

Lighting is everything in a basement. And white walls in any shade almost never work. Definite color...and it doesn't have to be dark...is almost always better. Yellow rarely adds sunlight...it actually looks best in sunlight...but if it is reflective and clear, and the light is very bright, it can work. Luminous pale blues can give the sense of sky, particularly if you also paint the ceiling...which you should do in any case to keep it from sitting down on top of you. Very clear light is key...some of the new florescent corkscrew bulbs give a wonderfully bright light, and without the heat that halogen generates. I would add big mirrors to crack the wall open visually wherever you would have a window, if you had them. You can even hang drapery to the sides to increase that illusion if you like. Lamps that are reflected in them them will throw the light around.

If you have a black net over the surface. painting the ceiling black will stop your eye at the net. Painting the ceiling white will draw your eye through to the ceiling. Obviously, painting the overhead black will visually bring down the ceiling and will darken the room. Leaving the wood and utilities exposed does give a little of that loft look. You might just consider spraying on a little water based urethane varnish. A light coat of white wash stain might be interesting too.