Floor to ceiling windows in cold climate
Nick D
5 years ago
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5 years agoVirgil Carter Fine Art
5 years agoRelated Discussions
100 year old house, cold climate, retrofit to in-floor heat?
Comments (3)I installed radiant floor on an addition 7 years ago and love it. We are adding again, and the steam system is being ripped out and it is radiant everywhere. That being said, some rooms require supplemental heat (ie panel radiators). You need to have a heat loss calc done, I hired a radiant designer. My guess is if the baseboard did not keep up, you will have a problem going radiant, unless you can go ceiling radiant. I am doing ceiling radiant on most of the first floor. It can output 50-100% more than floor radiant. Ceiling is less expensive in retro jobs as well....See MoreSpray Foam Conditioned Unvented Attic in Severe Cold Climate
Comments (5)Since you're planning to use a height-challenged attic as living space and you don't want to touch the roof, you've limited your choices. The ceiling becomes a cathedral ceiling and the best way to reach Code R levels is high- density closed-cell foam followed by one-two inches of extruded polystyrene foam board. But with typical 2"x6" roof rafters (the sloped boards), you'll still be below recommended insulation levels. Not to mention problems pointed out by other posters: limited headroom, possible leakage from the roof, inadequate ceiling joists that will become floor joists. In addition to the excellent article linked by energy rater, you might want to look at further items at the Building Science Corp. site: Unvented Roof Assemblies for All Climates, Building Profile: Very Cold Climate. According to the Canada Housing and Mortgage Corporation, recent research indicates there's not much difference between conditions in vented and unvented attics. Here is a link that might be useful: How Much Insulation is Needed...See MoreCold climate MUA for range hood above 36" Bluestar
Comments (21)This is what makes MUA such "fun." If the air is conditioned, it can be introduced distant from the kitchen or at least distant from the hood and have the best chance of not disrupting the rising effluent plume. If the air is unconditioned and cold, then close proximity is called for (although it is unlikely to be so close as to not chill-out the cook. This could have long-term ramifications. :) Insertion under the range is a good approximation of proximate, but might have these deficiencies: o Some ranges may not like this. Someone on this forum in the last year, I think, pointed out that high-end Brand X gas range instructions prohibited it. I don't recall who X was. I do not know what the basis of the manufacturer's objection was. o For cooktops, cabinets will be in the way. A grill at the feet may be used instead of a cabinet base, and for peninsulas and islands, another on the other side is plausible. Keep in mind that the grill will have to have a rather strong air velocity unless the grill is as large as the hood. Alternatively from floor insertion, a slotted counter top design around the cooktop would provide an ideal air feed location, but inadequate area for the flow rate. Also, it could be an opportunity for difficult cleaning. Pop-up vent systems run backwards come to mind. The air flow onto the cooktop could be disruptive to the flame pattern, so probably should be aimed outward. Flow would likely be too low without a very large pop-up. kas...See MoreAir curtains in climates with cold and bugs
Comments (13)Yes, air curtains in residential houses work. Where I live, it is regularly over 110F in the summer, and have an adjoining pasture. This heat/sun drives flies to our front porch, literally thousands of them on a hot day. Our air curtain allows us to use the front door without allowing entrance to the flies. As far as ducting and cost, ours was $250 and fully self contained. Had it originally powered via 3 prong extension cord before I put an outlet above the door....See MoreUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoNick D
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