Here's the nut! >"I tried last year to dig out severel problem areas, and then patched the bare spots in with plugs I dug out from my back lawn. Though that seemed to help for last year, I fear I may have actually made things worse, perhaps by disturbing the soil." Yes, disturbing the soil! Poa seeds remain viable in the soil for MANY years. You know they are there, so .... do NOT dig, core aerate or dethatch anytime in your future. Just say NO. Let a sleeping dog lie. Round Up the area/spots, over lapping the area a little bit due to any poa annua underground rhizomes and inter-twined blades with the KBG and apply a pre-emergent to this area - never disturbing the soil. Using a combo product, like say Scotts Turf Builder with Halts is ideal for this purpose. It will prevent any germination while encouraging the KBG to fill and spread into the void with the added fertilizer. >"but in the summer it seems to fade/die off anyway" And this is your clue! You are familiar when this happens in your area every year. Since poa annua dies when drought and heat stressed, so help it! Do NOT irrigate prior. Yes, your KBG may want to go dormant, and if it does, it will recover. Not to worry. When you notice the poa being stressed and browning out, (August???) THIS is when you apply the fall preM, before soil temps drop to favorable temperatures for germinating additional poa annua. Once your fall preM is down, you can water. After Labor Day, feed it ... bombs away. Labor Day, Mid October and around Thanksgiving. Fall IS the best time to fertilize and you want that KBG to fill in those voids. And FYI Halts - Pendimethalin has a 90 day residual Dimension - Dithiopyr " 120 " Barricade - Prodiamine can last 8 months when applied at the heavy rate. You have a longer growing season on LI than I do in Chicago. 2 or 3 apps will be needed depending on the product you use. Come spring, forget the forsythia. That's great for crab grass. Apply earlier for poa annua. Better early than too late. Kill the poa annua and feed the KBG ... it will fill in. Click link below for visual proof. KBG is outstanding at this! *YOU* too can do it also! Here is a link that might be useful: P. Annua Repair

I disagree with the factory paint job on a car anaglogy. Cars have their parts painted on all sides, sealing the metal with the paint in ideal conditions. The most durable finshing possible. But wood flooring is finished only on one side. While the wood factory finish will be more even, more consistent and tougher than on site, it still has some drawbacks. Factory finished floors are more prone to water damage because the joints between boards, on-site finishing gives you more protection because the urethane coating is protecting those joints (don't mistake that for a perfect seal, you still need to wipe up spills in a reasonable time). And dogs are where factory finished floors lose out big time. Their claws catch on those joints between boards, and delaminate the finish from the wood underneath. They don't wear down the finish, they pull it up at the edges. On site doesn't have that issue, but the claws will wear the on-site finish down faster and require re-finishing. If you don't have animals, the pre-finished is a really good choice, it stands up to non-animal traffic better than pre-finished, releases less off gassing into your house and no sanding.

I've owned both Andis and Oster and found the Andis to be quieter but maybe it was the model ...........not sure. Both are good brands but decide by feel, weight and the type hair you're cutting. Also, get all the info you can on the model you're considering, since the one you want may be limited in the type of blades it uses. Blade size is determined by the hair you're cutting......fine, coarse, short, long, etc. Also, I've never found the combs useful, but that may just be me! Here is a link that might be useful: One model that may work

Okay, good information. And Kudos to you for adopting and what a regal dog !!! My first concern would be a physical problem and the vet NEEDS to check out your dogs back and back end to make certain there is nothing wrong physically. Nerve problems in the back can make it so your dog has NO IDEA of when it is time to go. You wrote: "~ We never yell or hit him when he has an accident. We just show him and tell him, "NO . . . bad dog! Kennel!" Pick up the poop and take it and him to the kennel where we put it down and say, "Kennel . . . good dog, kennel" We then meticulously clean the rug using a good quality dog accident cleaner & deodorizer. " This connect negativity with bathroom works and you should really stop doing it. THIS "Ronin has an accident perhaps once or twice a week, although never peeing. All the other times, we/I just take him out to the kennel and lock him in until he goes, when we let him right back in, praising him, "Good dog, kennel!"." Is also not a good idea. Next I would call the foster person and ask if they had the same problem. If all that turns out to be normal and this is a new behavioral problem I suggest a couple of things - First you have had the dog 3 weeks and he is going through a period of transition - so you are bound to have something come up. You wrote that he is okay with other dogs and people and he gets kennelled on a rgular basis. All okay *BUT* you have failed to write ANYTHING about his daily walking routine!!! This dog should be taken out on a leash walk at least 3 times a day. For at least 15 minutes a day. NO LESS. Im not tqlaking just a quickie around the block where the dog sniffs a couple of bushes. Im talking find a good fire road or an area where your dog can really get in a good pant. DONT let him stop and sniff the bushes or rocks or anything else JUST a good walk at a good clip. Just when you are heading back to the car - let your dog stop and sniff the bushes. Hopefully the regualr walks will help alot - they usually do. Be careful not to go to the same place for his walks. I suspect your new charge is bored, and not stimulated enough. But that is just based on what you wrote....When your dog does do its duty. It is important to first give your dog a command to poop - it should be unemotional. Just a fact - go make a meadow muffin....when the dog does, praise him highly. As if he has just brought you a bag with a thousand dollars in it. If your dog likes privacy (mine does) just make certain you bring a longer leash so he can hide behind a bush or tree for his duties. Another part of the training is to take his present and take it outside to a place where you will walk your dog daily. Be certain to stop and let him sniff his stuff, give the unemotional command and praise him....good luck - let us know how it goes.