Bulging outer balloon stud wall
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5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agocat_ky
5 years agoRelated Discussions
stupid question - placement of outer wall studs at slab perimeter
Comments (3)Concrete slabs (and any masonry foundation) are almost never a perfect euclidean line, straightness-wise. A chalk line will be struck 3 1/2" in from each corner for the plates, and the sheathing will be outside the slab in most places, maybe flush with the slab wherever the forms bulged out. If you must have the sheathing lap down over the slab, you may need to adjust the snapped line to account for the "high spot" of any bulge, or grind the concrete. Furthermore, the framer may need to float the walls over the slab even more if it is not perfectly square. Casey...See MoreWhat kind of house do I have?? posting pic's
Comments (25)Here's a link to images of mine, which is in Western Penn. Predates yours by about 30 years (ours is about 1880), but they seem to have similar bones. At least you can see what yours might look like w/out the porch (south face, remembering that our south face is covered over w/ vinyl, so who knows what it looks like underneath). Our north face has a wide fascia board that's not really obvious on these pics. We took the vinyl off when we redid the small porch roof. On ours, the porch is probably not original adn stoop definitely isn't! I'm anxious to take off the vinyl all around to see if there might've been a porch on the south face originally. There are bones of Greek revival in both, I think. Also, we have an architectural student drawing up an addition for us and he has mentioned Federal style (but I think that's a stretch). But I think, as was mentioned early in the post, it's probably more of a working man's vernacular style (if it's not the Sears home, can't comment on that one). There's a very good book out there on American Architecture: McAlester, V. and Lee McAlester. 1984. A Field Guide to American Houses. Alfred A. Knopf, Inc. I'm sure it's on Amazon, or, if you're not really into *all* of the styles, it might be worth just a checkout from the library. Here is a link that might be useful: Druid's House...See MoreAny way to keep the second floor floor warm in a balloon frame?
Comments (6)That's a good question, mighyanvil, I was hoping that the blown insulation would have sealed that area. I peered behind an outlet box on the second floor, and the insulation was well packed. That's about as close to an easy inspection "port" as I can get. Wish there was a way to see if the insulation actually sealed that rim joist opening on the exterior wall (sorry, I don't know what that area is technically called). To clarify the original question, the concern isn't so much the temperature of the house, but that the second floor floor (the floor surface of the second floor) is frigid and that cold surface seems takes it toll on the comfort of the room. We've taken measures to air seal the house, including using a small bead of clear caulk along the bottom edges of the exterior wall baseboards. Surprisingly, that area was one of the most in need....See MoreWhat are these walls?
Comments (13)They used to call it wallboard. Here's a description from a 1921 book. I think it's the stuff you're describing. "A substitute for paneling fast coming into popular favor is wall-board. Time and again have I heard this product maligned on the ground that it "looked cheap;" that it buckles and it bulges; and a score of other allegations, but the fact remains that more and more of it is being used in homes, and that it has invaded nearly every room in the house. With the use of discretion, some exceedingly attractive effects may be contrived. Certainly it has its advantages. It is clean, it is easily installed, it is adaptable to any number of different finishes. Though nearly everyone in these days of general advertising is familiar with the product, let me say for the benefit of those who may not be cognizant of the fact, that wall board is a wood fiber product having the appearance of cardboard about a quarter-inch in thickness. It comes in panels about 32" or 48" wide and of varying lengths. These panels are nailed directly to the studding or rafters or over old plaster or any foundation material. Then, after the wall-board has been nailed around the room, it may be tinted, painted or enameled any hue you desire. If grained, it might be stained or varnished, and with strips of wood nailed over the joinings to hide them, the panel effect is excellently carried out. As a matter of fact, the panel treatment is almost essential to cover the joinings, but there are panels and panels, so there is enough variety to suit every whim and fancy. For the dining room, there is a grained board simulating wood, for kitchen and bathroom, a tiled board to be white enameled. The product may be conscienciously recommended for its resistance to the passage of heat, cold, sound, strains, fire and moisture." Here is a link that might be useful: early 20th c homes...See MoreDiane
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5 years agorwiegand
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5 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
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5 years agoksc36
5 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoksc36
5 years agorwiegand
5 years agoGN Builders L.L.C
5 years agoJenn TheCaLLisComingFromInsideTheHouse
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5 years agoDavidR
5 years agoJenn TheCaLLisComingFromInsideTheHouse
5 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
5 years agoksc36
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoDavidR
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5 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
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