Have a couple of questions about using well water to fill a pool. Our outside spickets run on well water...I have never truly tested it for long runs, but generally the first 2-3 minutes I run the pump I get rust that generally clears up 99% after it's running...my best guess is that the sleeve they used to run the pump lines down 60' to my source of water has rusted, they must have used steel not the kind that won't rust.... I have a lot of water in our well b/c it taps into an underground river...I did buy a house filtration system that I can hook up between two hoses and check the filters for rust, but what considerations should I know before I fill it up? Pebble sheen is supposed to go in on Thursday..any help would be appreciated! We do have the option of running the city water into it, but it means unhooking the washing machine (which I'll desperately need the next 3 days) and running hoses around...even considered calling my local volunteer fire dept..any ideas?? Thanks! Tara

That is a problem all of us experience. We know what we mean, but often leave out seemingly small details we do not realize are important. In this case, the missing info was so important, leaving it out means all the info given is not applicable. Using the new info, it is up to the insurance company and the policy as far as replacement. If the policy states replace in kind(using what was damaged) and that material is acceptable under local codes, then replacement of the original type material should be done. That means the boards will be replaced as originally installed, regardless of butt spacing or T&G type. However, if there is no specific wording, repairs are generally done according to local building codes, with the actual selection of materials done by cost. Another difference is material thickness. As a rule, solid wood boards were 3/4" thick. Plywood is not an actual 3/4"(or 1/2", 5/8", etc.) thick. And OSB can be thinner or thicker than the nominal thickness. That means mixing types of materials is not a good practice. Testing has proven, using dimensional(solid) wood boards installed on the oblique to the support framing for roof sheathing or subfloor construction is the most stable and strongest material commonly used. The down side is that method is also the most expensive and labor intensive (meaning more expensive) method. Plywood was less expensive to buy and install. And OSB was cheaper than plywood. Then there are climate conditions. As reported in the link provided by worthy, OSB is subject to edge swelling, which can only get worse with age and exposure to moisture. There are water proof versions of OSB, they are about half to 2/3 heavier than conventional types and MUCH more expensive. To the point is is not worth using, since other less expensive materials are available. I've seen tests where the waterproof variety sat under water for 6 months and was completely undamaged. It was, sadly, too heavy and expensive to use as subfloor material and would be way too heavy for roof sheathing. Plywood can delaminate and solid wood swell when exposed to moisture. Once that moisture is gone, both types can return to near original dimensions and strength. Even delaminated plywood can have near new strength. All the types of sheathing will be eventually weakened by continual exposure to water/moisture. That is why techniques to prevent moisture/water intrusion are as important as the type of material chosen.

What a beautiful space! I don't see your living area as needing to be updated, as it all seems to complement and flow well. I love the rustic elements. If anything, I would consider painting the built ins the same as the kitchen cabinets, or perhaps a shade darker. I think the mantel is perfect.

Should the color of your front door or doors be the same color inside?